Has anyone on this forum machined some cant into two piece rings?

Hi, just wondering if anyone on this forum had ever machined some cant into two piece rings?

I wish to do this on some Talley two piece rings for a rem700. About 15MOA would be perfect. I can work out the amount that needs removing etc, just more curious about how it turned out?

I'm thinking of mouting the rings to a rifle, then fixing a 1" bar in place of the scope - with holes drilled through it to allow me to access the screw holes to then remove the rings from the rifle, but still attached to the bar. This in Turn would go in the mill where the machined angle would be step cut.

Epoxy would then be used to bed the step cut rings back onto the rifle and infill any of my machining sins.

Or am I barking mad??? Please save me heart ache and tell me if you've traveled this road already and how you did it...and what result you achieved, and if you learnt anything you'd do different?

Thanks in advance
Kim

Thickness of material removed will be determined by distance between your rings and moa required.

purchase feeler gauges from supercheap and use them as shim material under the rear ring base, tiny bit of trial and error gets you there.

Try ten thou first, and once you have the right amount of shim thickness under the rear ring mount you can either leave it there, or remove it, and mill that amount from under your front ring base.

Then fit the rings back onto your rifle and lap them full width, as you will need to change their horizontal angle for the now slightly angled scope.


Feeler gauge set from supercheap are $6 from memory.

Very practical way of finding the right amount.

How is the mill working for you?

Lovely

I have thought of doin this for the Sako except I was going to make from scratch in alloy.
Then I thought for the amount I actually use it my time would be better spent hunting or fishing.
No reason you couldn't do what you're planning tho.

Would be just as easy to glue a shim to the base of the rear one, then bed as per normal?

I can't see how you can significantly "cant" normal rings by simply shimming one end. You will end up with misaligned rings that will chew into the scope tube. If you lap them with a round bar, the contact area will be quite reduced.

If a tapered base isn't possible, why not just use Burris Signature rings and build the required slope in with the variable liners?

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Originally Posted by sako75

How is the mill working for you?

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Going great! I had a backlog of little unfinished projects I've needed to do for ages and ive been ticking them off my list. In the past id made do with milling operations done in my lathe, or borrowing a mates mill...but a stand alone mill with 24/7 access is way better:)

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Originally Posted by 6x47

I can't see how you can significantly "cant" normal rings by simply shimming one end. You will end up with misaligned rings that will chew into the scope tube. If you lap them with a round bar, the contact area will be quite reduced.

If a tapered base isn't possible, why not just use Burris Signature rings and build the required slope in with the variable liners?

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Optiloks, burris etc have the swivel inserts which take care of the misalignment issues. Ideally my thoughts are to machine in the 15MOA with the rings attached to a bar which would lock in the correct spacing, the rings would then go back on the rifle with this spacing and cant looked in i.e. the entire process done on the bar. Just thinking out loud.

I'm not a fan a rails, as cheek weld becomes an issue as the scope height stats getting to high for my liking.

Kj

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Originally Posted by chalkeye

Would be just as easy to glue a shim to the base of the rear one, then bed as per normal?

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Ah, yes it would. It took me a while to realise this is likely the best idea. I'll still use the bar, to hold it all in place...but yes, great idea.

As mentioned, you might have to remove a bit of material to get them concentric again, a few turns with a 1" reamer would sort you out though.
Not as elegant a solution as milling the bottoms, but a fair bit easier.

I've done both the milling route (rings and rail) and the Burris inserts route.

Milling is a ball-ache, coz it inevitably turn into a mill, test, mill, test cycle. If you can mill at home and have a test range in the back yard, all good. Work holding and job setup for getting both bases aligned and a consistent angle milled across both is NOT straight forward. Take off less than you think, easier to take off small bits at a time, impossible to add metal back :P

Burris inserts are a quick, easy solution.

If you do end up using repco/super cheap feeler gauges, measure them carefully with a decent micrometer, they are almost never accurate.

Cheers ebf, all advice is appreciated.

Kj

To end up with x moa "cant" ( I hate that term) is a relatively simple calculation and set up on the bed using your bar and a simple pass threw both rings, no guess work or re milling required if your set up is any good.

Yup, simple trigonometry 1/60 x 15 = 0.25°. Use tan0.25° = opp/adjacent.