I have acquired a painted rifle that im becoming quite fond of
I'm not a big camo paint look fan so I'm keen to get it off the barrelled action and dpt suppressor
Is there a go to product?
Looks like spray paint to my eye.
Attachment 102012
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I have acquired a painted rifle that im becoming quite fond of
I'm not a big camo paint look fan so I'm keen to get it off the barrelled action and dpt suppressor
Is there a go to product?
Looks like spray paint to my eye.
Attachment 102012
on a project of mine I that was painted, I initially tried scraping it off. Just in case it sort of shatters off if you know what I mean, with some brass flat stock. It was thick enough to do it but slow.
Underneath the action I got more aggressive and used the wire wheel on the pedestal grinder and gently buffed down though the paint keeping an eye out for the bluing.
Theoretically if the bluing is good that shouldn't really hurt it.
Didn't matter on mine as there was basically none on it anyway. Must have all been worn/polished off before it was painted.
Did the whole rifle in about 5 minutes
Soda blast?
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You can use a solvent. Firstly it helps if you know weather the paint is enamel or lacquer and it could be either if it's come from a can.
The solvent I would use as a signwriter would be Universal thinners that car painters use. It's available at hardware stores though if you go into a car painter with a small jar and explain what you are doing chances are he will give you a bit to trial.
Remove the action / barrel from stock first as it may effect the plastic.
Don't expect it to be instant and you may have to soak a rag and leave it on to work for 5 mins or so.
Use gloves and well ventilated area .
Enamel will wrinkle up and start to break down and lacquer with just start wiping off. It's bloody smelly and messy but it's non - abrasive and won't damage the steel .
The blueing should be fine but do a test area first thats out of sight.
The only issue you may have is if the previous owner has sanded or wire wooled it to help the paint key on.
Good luck and let me know how you get on.
@viper
I reckon that's what happened to my project. hardly any sign of a blueing anywhere except where it would be a PITA to get to. Even put some filler in the rear sight dovetail to smooth it out
in a well ventilated place get the metal warm (leather glove territory ) but not really hot.
apply tergo strip , using a rag wife the paint off.
https://www.chemetall.co.nz/product/tergostrip-bo
bloody great stuff but since you are applying to hot metal there will be fumes so be careful. use hand,eye and skin protection. have a bucket of clean water nearby in case you get it on your skin.
I watched some guy (gunsmith) on utube use a wire wheel.... had to be a super soft wheel, he said you should be able to touch it while spinning and not hurt yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by csmiffy
watch this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2SyN6m39x4
Try solvent first, probably start with acetone and elbow grease.
Do spill it on anything plastic though.
Anything abrasive is going to damage what ever is underneath.
So either heat or solvent.
Not according to the link I posted. I would have agreed with you until I watched that clip, although until proven/tested it might be bullshit, but looks genuine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beetroot
Agree on the acetone. It is the least toxic solvent (which you would not guess when you see it destroy plastics!), and not too expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beetroot
And like @viper reminded you, keep your stock safely away from it.
Give it a blast with brake cleaner (after removing the stock and any other plastic bits) and you'll be surprised how easy some cheap shit paint comes off
Just be a bit careful with paint stripper, in these days of fast / instant results some are very aggressive ( like Rushy after 6 Waikato's ) they may etch into the steel and be plain brutal on alloy . Solvents tend to be pretty good on steel and sub straights but that can go south if the right solvent for the purpose isn't used.
I would be very hesitant to use paint stripper at this point.
The rule of thumb is to start off light.... solvent and progress if it doesn't work. Abrasion is probably in this case last on the list.
In this case I may use a fine scouring pad to break the gloss / matt finish off the top surface which forms tiny valleys for the solvent to work on rather than a flat surface ( i am talking microscopic here not 60 grit sandpaper )
@csmiffy , hi mate, happy new year. Yeah it's always hard to know from a paint / surface prep what has gone on before you arrived. There are different ways to approach a surface in regards to paint and it's ability to key on.Quote:
Originally Posted by csmiffy
Generally the harder the surface the harder it is for paint to key on so often the harder the surface the more aggressive the prep work to make it stick and stay.
There are some pretty aggressive products out there now in a can as people want results the first time round and bang for there buck
Little Miss Sugar Tits in the suburbs who want to paint her 10 yr old BBQ knows as much about paint systems as I do about time travel. The guy in the hardware shop that sold it to her is only a couple of steps above . ( hey he's on 17.50 an hour , why would he care )
Steels hard and it's smooth and paint flakes , chips and fails. Answer .... sanding / abrasives or use a an etch primer that eats into the steel and gets a grip for primers, top coats or what ever system your going to use.
Chances are by the sounds of it ( bog :sick: ) this past owner has gone hard on the prep work but generally nothing when it come to the paint ( not the bog ) is more than skin deep and you will be able to pull it back to a point where you re - blue it or cerokote it.
Where are you? I can soda or walnut blast it off for you.
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Acetone. Keep it simple.
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i used tergo and a heated barrel/action on a mossberg shotty years back after a muppet had painted it "camo" . it takes a couple of goes but it left the bluing just fine apart from the usual wear marks he admitted it already had.Quote:
Originally Posted by viper
it always a case of gently gently softly softly rather than rip shit and bust
@viper happy new year back.Quote:
Originally Posted by viper
already done. see bsa mode E in the project sections. cold blue job so not fantastic but ok
The metalwork is stainless so it should make things less risky
I'll start with brake cleaner because Iv got it on hand and it's at the gentler end of the options
Worst case scenario is it gets a good clean
@Bill999 to remove the paint first take the cats tail and use this to wipe thinners over the areas where you would like the paint removes.
Next place cat under your arm and put tail in mouth. Then as you squeeze the cat bite down on tail as you would play the bagpipes......this won’t help remove the paint but should be fun to watch:XD:
I by the time you have gotten to stage two you will be laughing so hard and in need of A&E that you will have forgotten all about the paint.
:thumbsup:
You had me belly laughing and no one needs to see that. The sound would be the same as bagpipe but much louder.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshow
