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Thread: Importing rifle stocks from the US

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beetroot View Post
    Out of curiosity what is it you don't like with the factory stock?
    Does the gun not shoot very well, or does it not have a nice feel to it?
    It shoots good mate, just not a big of the look to be honest. Bottom line is I'd like a aftermarket stock with a bit more rigidity and better bedding wile I have the funds ( at a more affordable price than local)
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  2. #17
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    Thanks for all the info guys, just bought a Bell and carlson stock from red hawk rifles. $299 usd all up.

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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jmar100 View Post
    Thanks for all the info guys, just bought a Bell and carlson stock from red hawk rifles. $299 usd all up.

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    Make sure to take the stock to a smith for some additional inletting of the action bolts otherwise your rifle will rock under recoil. They are poorly Inletted for the t3 also the rear tang needs a little work,just stating the probs that I had with mine! I also added some additional s/s pillars as theirs are way to big for the action screws in my opinion,by the time you do all that you will find that the tikka shoots better with the OEM Tupperware !
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  4. #19
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    Ive emailed my AO on getting a permit to bring in AR15 bits, he hasnt replied so I'll pop in this week, I'll let you know how I get on. From previous casual chats he seemed fine. Ive certainly brought in 3 or 4 Enfield stocks from the UK with no permits and no issues at all. I did chat to my AO first just in case and he was happy, only "concerned" if it was a semi-auto part.
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    "I do not wish to be a pawn or canon fodder on the whims of MY Government"

  5. #20
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    Is that with the shipping @Jmar100
    VIVA LA HOWA

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toby View Post
    Is that with the shipping @Jmar100
    Yea mate, $55 priority mail included.
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  7. #22
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    Pretty good really. The B & C's look nice too
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by mayfly View Post
    Make sure to take the stock to a smith for some additional inletting of the action bolts otherwise your rifle will rock under recoil. They are poorly Inletted for the t3 also the rear tang needs a little work,just stating the probs that I had with mine! I also added some additional s/s pillars as theirs are way to big for the action screws in my opinion,by the time you do all that you will find that the tikka shoots better with the OEM Tupperware !
    Attachment 28301
    Couple of q's here, what was causing the rocking under recoil? And what effect do you think the oversized pillars were having? Were you seeing effects on accuracy?
    Oversized pillars shouldn't have any effect on accuracy as they are there to stop over tightening of the action screws.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freezer View Post
    Couple of q's here, what was causing the rocking under recoil? And what effect do you think the oversized pillars were having? Were you seeing effects on accuracy?
    Oversized pillars shouldn't have any effect on accuracy as they are there to stop over tightening of the action screws.
    If you take a close look at the photo you firstly will see that we had to scallop out the recoil lugs that are present on all factory Tikka stocks but not on the B&C,secondly you will also see that the B&C stock is rounded at the bottom where as the Tikka stock is flattened to suit the action,all these caused my shoots to impact at different places with each shot,never consistent. Had two different benchrest shooters try also just to eliminate my possible error. She is tight as now and shoots .5moa as the original Tupperware stock did!

  10. #25
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    Thanks for your reply . I'm super interested in stocks that don't shoot. The pillars being loose should have been sweet . If you don't mind me asking, do you mean that the inletting/ bedding block is rounded? Like you say that seems like a silly oversight. Great to hear that you got it sorted but unfortunate that people will have to go through this also!

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freezer View Post
    Thanks for your reply . I'm super interested in stocks that don't shoot. The pillars being loose should have been sweet . If you don't mind me asking, do you mean that the inletting/ bedding block is rounded? Like you say that seems like a silly oversight. Great to hear that you got it sorted but unfortunate that people will have to go through this also!
    Exactly that,rounded bedding block versus a semi flat action,in my opinion B&C stuffed up big time with the Tikka I certainly don't rate them apart for a better feel and a better palm swell.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by mayfly View Post
    If you take a close look at the photo you firstly will see that we had to scallop out the recoil lugs that are present on all factory Tikka stocks but not on the B&C,secondly you will also see that the B&C stock is rounded at the bottom where as the Tikka stock is flattened to suit the action,all these caused my shoots to impact at different places with each shot,never consistent. Had two different benchrest shooters try also just to eliminate my possible error. She is tight as now and shoots .5moa as the original Tupperware stock did!
    Recoil lugs/action screws? I have read a wee bit on the B&C and some report that the recoil lug is fixed and can't be adjusted? Was your recoil lug a good fit to the T3 action?
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  13. #28
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    +1 on redhawk bro, got one through them - easier than getting a rash on k road
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  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARdave View Post
    +1 on redhawk bro, got one through them - easier than getting a rash on k road
    Mate!.....lol
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  15. #30
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    Hi, Just chatted to my local AO and the instructions seem to have changed/been clarified a bit. So if you want to bring parts in I suggest you chat to your AO just to be 100% sure. I think its good to chat to him anyway.

    This is what he tells me,

    If you want to,

    a) bring in a complete AR15/gun, you need an import permit.
    b) If you want to bring in a complete action ie complete bolt and receiver you need an import permit.
    c) If you want to bring in any MSSA part (eg pistol grip stock, 30round mag) or part that will go on a MSSA you will need an import permit.
    d) If you want to bring in a bayonet you need a good reason and get the OA to do an import permit.

    Permits will take about 2 weeks.

    So
    a) you can bring in a complete AR15 upper (BCG and barrel and receiver) say, no permit needed and none will be issued.
    b) you can bring in a stripped lower without any MSSA parts on it, no permit needed and none will be issued.
    c) stocks, springs, minor parts, etc no permit needed and none will be issued.

    From the USA side its more complex, if its Brownells say,

    a) you need to fill out a "end user statement for export" which Brownells will send you. In that you say its for your personal use and what you will use it for.
    b) you need to fill out a "DSP-83" which Brownells will send you. It has to be counter signed by the NZ Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade to say they wont allow it to be exported.
    c) Tell Brownells no import certificate is needed (as long as its a Cat A part or gun).

    The people with a problem or who will cause you a problem are NZ customs so chatting to your AO before hand to make sure he knows and he's is on your side would seem sensible.
    "I do not wish to be a pawn or canon fodder on the whims of MY Government"

 

 

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