Thinking of picking one up to tinker with and know that a lot of you here have had success modifying them to be very accurate shooters for the price.
So what things can be done to improve on Norinco's finest?
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Thinking of picking one up to tinker with and know that a lot of you here have had success modifying them to be very accurate shooters for the price.
So what things can be done to improve on Norinco's finest?
This will give you some ideas: JW15 modifications and setup ideas
Get another stock, LOP on Norinco's is set up for midgets.
This is what I did to mine
http://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co.n...cations-27850/
Will have to do the magazine mods on the 9rnd magazine though
Don't do the magazine mods. Buy the plastic CZ 10 shot mag. Its half the weight and ultra reliable, plus an extra round.
The trigger is a two stage. The grub screw under the trigger only adjusts the length of dead pull on the first stage. It pivots on a pin to activate a sear bar. Very gently polishing the top of sear where it engages the bottom of the firing pin from inside bolt will affect break.
Dremmel polishing wheel with autosol. separate the bolt components. polish the flat underside of the firing pin.
@mudgripz can show us a lot of tips on these.
Thanks @mudgripz, this link is awesome. Might have to get one nowQuote:
Originally Posted by mudgripz
It appears the RimfireNZ website is down(?).Quote:
Originally Posted by mudgripz
I can't login or access the forum. I just get a database error message.
Any chance you could post the info in this thread please?
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I brought one as a work horse / shit kicker. Excellent, accurate and 100% reliable . They are rough, mine has the bore off centre so the bullet was hitting the edge of the suppressor on the way out. :angry:
Easy fix though I just drilled a bigger hole in my suppressor , fixed.:thumbsup:
This gun smithing shit is easy as, ha.
I have had two now and the first one ( newer ) was crap but this older one with end of the fore stock painted black ( poor mans ebony cap ) shoots very well.
If it wasn't factory threaded then that was a problem with who threaded it, not the rifle. It's not uncommon for the bore to be off centre.Quote:
Originally Posted by viper
It was factory threadedQuote:
Originally Posted by Shearer
My one had same problem hitting suppressor on the way out, chopped it and put a Hardy can on, now only have problem with the magazine
My Norinco mag was crap to mate but the 452 CZ mags fit them and I have never had a problem since.Quote:
Originally Posted by falcon6555
Not cheap for the CZ mag but worth it.
Was going to say that wouldn't be cheap...Quote:
Originally Posted by viper
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I feel a new project coming on
If anyone's after one I have a jw15 sitting around doing sfa.
PM if you're interested.
Attachment 75085
Attachment 75086
***WARNING***
For future readers I thought that this may be of interest...
I was looking for a cheap .22LR for shooting rabbits on the farm and teaching my son to shoot.
I spent A LOT of time on various online forums (NZ and overseas) researching the Norinco JW15.
Overall, the reviews/opinions were positive with a few exceptions.
Mudgripz offered plenty of sound advice on getting them to shoot very well.
So...I went to the local gun store a purchased a Norinco JW15 and several ammo types.
I stripped the rifle and removed all the Chinese grease. I noted that the crown wasn't flash but didn't have the tools on hand to tidy it up.
I LIGHTLY polished and oiled the working parts then took it out for a zero.
OMG it was HORRIFIC!
At 50m, the BEST group I could manage was around 2" (YES...I removed parallax).
I regularly shoot 1000m+ so I was confident I was doing my bit.
I tried various other ammo types and made sure the bolts that hold the receiver were tight.
Still no joy...SO, I took the gun back to the shop.
They shot it and could not get it to group better than 3" - 4". They also took 2 other Norinco's out to compare.
1 was another brand new one, the other was 12 months old and had just been traded (sold 12 months earlier by same shop).
Both the NEW Norinco's shot poorly!
The second hand JW shot 1" at 50 without trying to hard!
He gave the rifles another look over and noticed that the older JW had Norinco JW15 stamped on the barrel.
The two new ones only had JW15 stamped on them.
The gun shop owner had recently taken possession of the two new Norinco's from GC so he is not impressed and intends to send them back.
It looks like there are some JW15 "pretenders" out there...and they are awful!
So...luckily the local gun store owner offered to replace my Norinco with a genuine one but after this incident, I just couldn't bring myself to do it...
So...I grabbed a Marlin XT22 instead. Fingers crossed this thing will shoot better than 2" @ 50m.
So...IF YOU STILL WANT A JW15...make sure it is stamped with NORINCO on the barrel. If not...walk away.
I hope this saves some folks a headache!
I saw a cheap (~$100) jw15 at sai second hand rack. I may buy it as I'm not so keen to pull apart my functioning one.
the cz 452 trigger kit.
Taking it apart and polishing the action.
Attempt to free float the barrel.
Would these be worth doing. Have done anything like this before but I am keen to have a go and maybe try to make my current one better as it doesn't group nearly as good as your ones although it's acceptable.
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Never found floating the barrel on a 22rf to make any difference
Ok. I'll probably just give the trigger and polish a goQuote:
Originally Posted by northdude
Anyone have any suggestions on how you go about deciding on what spring and shims you use when installing the trigger kit
I think the jw trigger is completely different from the cz oneQuote:
Originally Posted by Russian 22.
I usually use 1200/1400 wet and dry and just polish the areas where the trigger and sear touch and the area where the sear touches the cocking part in the bolt be very carefull not to change any angles go slow and trial fit and test as you go if your not to sure less would be better if you havnt done this type of thing before
Bugger. Anything worth doing to the trigger apart from the polish?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilli_Dog
Thanks man. So I'm mainly just trying to take sharp edges off and smooth the moving parts right?Quote:
Originally Posted by northdude
yep if its a second hand rifle that's had a bit of work it might of had the edges worn off if its gritty feeling its usually burrs on the mating surfaces be carefull as some firearms will have case hardened parts and you can go through the hardening
The usual disclaimers, dont do any of this but Here is what I did to mine, I smoothed the sear face (blue arrow) with a fine diamond lap, the top of the sear in mine was pretty rough and had very rounded corners so didnt have much engagement in the firing pin so I flattened off the top (red arrow) so it was straight. I made a different trigger so I was easy to make sure I had enough engagement with the reduced height sear, it may not be the best idea to do this with the standard setup. It has been mentioned that a shim (beer can) can be put under the ejector plate to take out some of the slop in the bolt (black arrow). My receiver was very cut up where the set screw in the trigger ran so that was cleaned up as well (that probably made the biggest difference). On the bolt I smoothed out the flats on the front bottom of the bolt (red arrows) as well as the protrusion that picks up the round from the magazine. I also deburred the slot along the bottom where the firing pin runs. I took out the extractors and gave them a little bit of a clean up and deburr so they moved freely. The firing pin I cleaned up the surface that runs over the sear and the cam face that runs on the bolt handle, I didnt touch the piece that hooks on the sear (black arrow).
If you do any thing you really need to make sure that it can be accidentally discharged due to too light a trigger spring or not enough sear engagement
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Thanks so much chilli dog. That's awesome. Next Saturday I'll hit up sai and get cracking.
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