Learned something today about suppressors.

Bought a well used (800 rounds) Tikka T3 223 1/8 last week. It came with a muzzle-forward Dpt suppressor that the seller described as “free” because it was “not suited for long range work”. I started to worry that the barrel might be stuffed but went ahead with the purchase because he was asking a fair price and these are hard to get in left hand.

Put a cheap Pentax 4-12 scope on it and took it out to the paddock with the loads I had left from when I last had a 1/8 223 T3; -24g BM2 and 65g Sierra Gamekings. Fired one shot at 25 yards to foul the barrel and get it close enough to centre to hit the target at 100. First group shot at 100 with the supressor on was rubbish; -2.5 moa vertical string.

Attachment 235706

Took the suppressor off, fired another 3 shots and..….

Attachment 235707

I had thought that a stuffed supressor would get noisy but not affect accuracy. So I need a new supressor. Keen to hear if any of you think that a DPT magnum or Hardy Stealth make much of a difference noise-wise compared to the non-magnum or compact models in a little calibre such as the 223.

Cheers….

I would suggest you do some more investigating before you commit to a new suppressor purchase.

Can you take the can apart and check if it’s overly fouled? Is the thread a good snug fit? Concentric to the bore? Is there an issue with the rear bushing clearance?

Can be plenty of issues related to the can without actually being a fault of the can itself.

Have a look down the can and aee if theres any sign of impact or irregularities. You may be able to over bore it to clean it up and get back some accuracy. Or try another can on it and see if it has the same result. Whats the crown like? I used to get mine slightly countersunk so there wasnt an issue changing the dynamics when putting a can on.

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It could simply be a barrel resonance issue

Maybe try another suppressor
Try an over barrel
Take the rear bush off if its too small

Interesting post

What thread do have?
I run a 6.5mm DPT magnum on my t3 .223 that you're welcome to try out, its a 14x1 thread.

There is evidence of a bullet strike at the muzzle. I think it did some time on an AR15 at some point. I don’t love the muzzle forward design, -makes the rifle long and front heavy. Would be ok on a short single shot rifle though. I also fIgure that it is coming to the end of its life anyway.

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Originally Posted by rossm-96

There is evidence of a bullet strike at the muzzle. I think it did some time on an AR15 at some point. I don’t love the muzzle forward design, -makes the rifle long and front heavy. Would be ok on a short single shot rifle though. I also fIgure that it is coming to the end of its life anyway.

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I have two muzzle forward on single shot contender barrels and they are good for that task

harmonics.

there is a reason barrel tuners are being used.

I'd pull the suppressor apart clean and grease the threads, then I'd be looking at harmonics, leave the can off and check barrel clearance etc then put it back on and check again. Also end on ones tend to loosen of easier when shooting so check between shots, if you've done all that see if you can borrow one to try before you trade out

If there is evidence of previous baffle strike this could be the reason for the poor accuracy even if it is no longer striking. Uneven pressure around the projectile during freebore (left the barrel, but still in/exiting the suppressor) can very well send shots wayward.
I'm a curious person so I would remove the offending baffles and try a few shots to see if that sorts it out even if I didn't intend to use it.
You may get away with simply getting DPT to replace one or two baffles if you want to keep it for something.

Im not a huge fan of end of barrel cans becauae without a second point of contact like over barrels, a decent knock could in thoery knock it out of alignment even if ever so slightly.

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I prefer the muzzle forward design. Bullet strike doesn't affect the efficiency of the supressor in my experience. This one started off on an ar, and now shares time on a zastava and a Ruger. Unless firmly done up they could work loose in a rattle gun just enough to droop slightly.
Vertical stringing and possibly double grouping could be caused by binding on the stock, the added weight of the supressor being enough to cause it.
Being a slow learner not one but 3 strikes but it still works fine

Pretty obvious but is it staying tight on the threads?

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Originally Posted by StrikerNZ

I would suggest you do some more investigating before you commit to a new suppressor purchase.

Can you take the can apart and check if it’s overly fouled? Is the thread a good snug fit? Concentric to the bore? Is there an issue with the rear bushing clearance?

Can be plenty of issues related to the can without actually being a fault of the can itself.

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Its a muzzle forward can

800 rounds isn’t well used, more like 4-5000. Suggest you check alignment, might have had a knock causing bullet strike. Make sure it’s tight on thread. Never had a problem with muzzle foreword cans, 3 Waitaki Engineering and one DPT.

It stays tight now. If you get baffle strike the bullet never reaches the target trust me. It's on its 6th can of Belmont black, the rear baffle was replaced with stainless pretty quickly though.

How big is the "play/space" between the barrel channel and the barrel

What type of rest did you shoot over?


where on the forearm was it positioned? closer to the front end or closer to the magazine?

What was the weight of the projectiles and what propellant were you using?

Projectiles impacting vertically has taught me to start looking in the barrel channel. The barrel is touching during firing. Ive had it several times after fitting a silencer. A lot of shooters does not realize that a barrel will flex upon discharge and move several millimeters - with a can hanging of the front end of the barrel it becomes even more profound.

Yes vertical strings tend to indicate barrel touching forearm trouble. Even where the front rest bag is placed. Ruger No1’s can be affected more than most by this.

Thx for all the feedback. Rifle was in a Caldwell lead sled with the fore end sitting perhaps a third the way between the action and the end. Was in a McMillan stock that has been recently bedded (but using a different T3 action). Not so worried about getting the old supressor back to life but am now a tad worried that the problem could reoccur with a new supressor. Thx again….

list the old suppressor..it will be gone in a flash....just for the components.

be good if you could borrow a suppressor to try it and see

True story.

Bought a Blaser 22mm Match barrel, 18x1 factory thread.
Bought an ASE Utra SL-7 muzzle forward can.
Zeroed without can at 50m to get on paper. Clover leaf.
Can fitted.
Shots all over target like a mad woman’s shit.

Still have pic of target to remind me

Mmmm…

Can went back to vendor.
Clover leaf on a 300 RUM @ 100m.

Sold the can.

Smith checked thread and shoulder on barrel.
Threaded on the piss ex factory.
Smith fitted and timed a directional brake.

Love my Blaser, but bugger me…..

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Originally Posted by rossm-96

Thx for all the feedback. Rifle was in a Caldwell lead sled with the fore end sitting perhaps a third the way between the action and the end. Was in a McMillan stock that has been recently bedded (but using a different T3 action). Not so worried about getting the old supressor back to life but am now a tad worried that the problem could reoccur with a new supressor. Thx again….

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Rossm,you dont live far from Gunworks,they make good suppressers.Any problems and they will fix.