Thread: Light gun oil

I like to give my guns a wipe down with an oily rag after use and put a bit of light oil on a patch down the barrel. Years ago, I read that WD40 isn't ideal for various reasons, so bought a can of Rem Oil which is about to run out. I have some Corrosion X at home. Use that or buy some more Rem Oil or something else? Cheers.

honestly either or- both good - I have used rem oil for many years great product but also use corrosion x - you are going to get a lot of recommendations but definitely not CRC or WD 40 only for loosening nuts and bolts - I will use it if I suspect water in barrel but it come straight out don't rely on it for long term protection

Originally Posted by Barry the hunter

honestly either or- both good - I have used rem oil for many years great product but also use corrosion x - you are going to get a lot of recommendations but definitely not CRC or WD 40 only for loosening nuts and bolts - I will use it if I suspect water in barrel but it come straight out don't rely on it for long term protection

Whats the go with WD-40? Is it no good for the metal? Genuine question, some people rave about it, others not so much.

I've tried WD-40 on rifles, worked so-so. Switched over to Ballistol and haven't found anything better yet.

If you have wooden stocks, please use any form of mineral oil very sparingly as it penetrates into the wood and destroys it over time.

wd40 certainly no good near wood it will soak in and stain - does not last well as its a very light product - buts its the fact that it could get into places on a rifle that you dont want it - that and CRC have a capillary action they can get into minute places - maybe your scope - rumour it can get past rifle primers but dont quote me on that - thats my understanding of why many knowledgeable types say dont use it -one old gunsmith mate snarls if you say rifle and crc in same sentence - - my experience is it simply does not last as a protectant on metal like rem oil does - I do take a very small bottle of breakfree with me on back country trips pull a little thru at night on a rag and remove in morning - just in case damp night in camp - no WD 40 CRC loosen nuts bolts for me thats it but at work we have a better product than that for nuts called nut cracker commercial mechanics product ( no not the wifey pissed of at your boozy night out )

Ballistol works for me bit stinky though

3in1 available in most supermarkets ,or from beside Mums sewing machine if your sneaky enough to not get caught.

Not sure if applicable to bore but for at least the outside, I think gundoc suggested engine oil for the outside

engine oil really maybe a basic four stroke oil- I would be worried about the additives in modern oils - loaded with detergents and all kinds of stuff - but one can always be educated - a trap shooter told us in DOC at a talk on looking after firearms for fouling in their trap guns they just used petrol but of course thats inside the barrel to remove plastic fouling etc - just be wary of heavier sticky oils for the outside - they may collect dust - no you cant go past rem oil - a lot use ballistol so must be good

Ballistol, works real good.

I recently started coating the area in the stock of my customers rifles with CRC long Term. To prevent rust, gives a good layer without a strong smell.

Originally Posted by Jaco Goosen

Ballistol, works real good.

I recently started coating the area in the stock of my customers rifles with CRC long Term. To prevent rust, gives a good layer without a strong smell.

Yep. CRC long life. Fantastic stuff. Keeps rust at bay for a year at least. Just have to remember to clean out really well from the bore. I use brakeclean and lots of patches to get the stuff out. Don't want to bulge any more barrels

Rem oil or hoppes oil

Inox

Innox for summer, Breakfree for winter.

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WD-40 is a versatile product primarily designed for water displacement, cleaning, and corrosion protection, not just lubrication. While it contains light oils, making it a temporary lubricant, it attracts dust and grime when it dries, which can hinder long-term lubrication. Key facts include that it can damage certain plastics, rubber, and painted surfaces"