Thread: Loctite question

Was thinking about adding some loctite to stop stuff coming loose. Anyone know if Loctite #243 is the right stuff for firearms ?

Or ???

Thanks.

I hope it is as that's what I use!

Yep 243 is the one I have always used not just on firearms but for general engineering as well. Medium strength and can be removed with tools. No heat required which is the case with the higher strength ones.

Is loctite calibre specific, I dont own a 243 so would it work on my 308?

Thanks all

Originally Posted by Marty Henry

Is loctite calibre specific, I dont own a 243 so would it work on my 308?

Bit round the muzzle will tighten yr groups and loosen your bowels!

Originally Posted by Marty Henry

Is loctite calibre specific, I dont own a 243 so would it work on my 308?

it will but if you have a 7mm08 then vaseline will probably suit better

OK, we use it a lot at work.
For std screw locking and retaining the ability to remove the screws again, loctite 222.
For med screw locking and able to remove but stuffs the screws or threaded base, use loctite 243.
For full power screw locking and not a ffffing chance or removing easily, use loctite 263

However, a trick in trade (but I wouldn't reccomend on a scope) you can remove 243 and 263 by heating the joint up with a hot air gun up to 150deg C. This will break the loctite.

If using Stainless screws in Aluminum material, you need to add some loctite primer (7274) to the screws first.

Don't put Loctite on ring screws, just bases etc.

If it turns pear shaped scopes aren't that keen on heat

I used 243 on my gas block and hoped the heat wouldn't reduce it's strength, needn't have worried

Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg

Don't put Loctite on ring screws, just bases etc.

If it turns pear shaped scopes aren't that keen on heat

+1

Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg

Don't put Loctite on ring screws, just bases etc.

If it turns pear shaped scopes aren't that keen on heat

+1 is easy to check is your scope ring screws are tight but hard to check is the bases are tight.

Originally Posted by MassiveAttack

+1 is easy to check is your scope ring screws are tight but hard to check is the bases are tight.

Yeh on one hunt to the Godley a guy in our team discovered his bases loose - bloody criminal. I use loctite on base screws, sometimes cross screws but never ever ring screws. Also, after I fit a scope and fire the rifle I recheck with ring screws with the torque wrench again. BTW if you do use loctite 243 on the ring screws nothing as dramatic as heating would be required to undo them just a very correctly fitting screwdriver, something that a lot of people obviously don't have when you look at the state of screws on second hand rifles in gun shops.

I never torque screws or bolts (those not being loctited) dry - bad practice. Always lube the threads and shoulders be they bolts, cap screws, shoulder screws etc.

Originally Posted by Mauser308

Hmm. I use A SMALL DAB on everything.

Never had any come loose, or any issues undoing them when I needed them off.

As an experiment once, I tried using some retaining compound (the liquid green stuff that glues turds to piss) under a couple of weaver bases that just did not want to stay put. Waste of time, even with the curing accelerator the crap stayed liquid (must have been too much oxygen present around the joint to kick the curing process off). Two pack metal epoxy fixed the little f'ers though.

The only time I've ever had any issue with liquid threadlockers is when they haven't been used appropriately, i.e. one container per screw.

Points to note when using the threadlockers, the threaded bits need to be clean (no grease, thread tape, vegetation, brass flakes, paint, oil, pet fluff, food waste, goat phlegm etc etc) and while the threadlocker is liquid it is lubricating the thread so that the screw will pull down a lot harder and with less friction than when the thread is dry. Be aware of that, as it can cock you up when using torque wrenches. Pays to set to the minimum setting or a bit lower and work up in steps so you can monitor what is going on...

Once major benefit of using the threadlockers on everything scope related, is that the liquid threadlocker flows into every crevase in the threaded joint and prevents moisture and other issues like corrosion from starting. Correct products used correctly will make it easier to get your scope off not harder... If in doubt use Loctite 222 or equivalent.

Loctite type products actually cure when there is no oxygen, thats why the bottles are only half full.