Marlin 25N

Good afternoon,

I have a Marlin 25N and really like it but the bolt has never been overly quiet to cycle. A fair clunk when chambering a new round. I've tried googling but clearly not using the correct key words.
Does anyone know of a "fix" or improvement too this?

Cheers
Aaron

Marlin 25N a good bolt action 22. I would guess its 70s or 80s - what are the first 2 serial numbers? Was followed by the 925/980 models etc, then later the XT models and these are not as good. Yep some are Remlins.

Do what mimms suggests. You could also maybe disassemble bolt and use a slightly heavier grade oil on bolt/action. Not usually recommended. Marlin 25s, 925s, 880/882series, 980 etc not known to give many probs. Simple rifles with good barrels - reliable and surprisingly accurate. Some of them down to 0.3 groups at 50m - and all I've owned/benched capable of 0.4s. Keep it..

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Originally Posted by mimms2

Um... a "loud" bolt to cycle??
Fair clunk?

Go slower.

Shoot 3000 rounds and see if it's still doing it.

(Alternatively dismantle the thing and polish all sliding surfaces, round off points, edges etc)

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Doesn't matter how slow you go it clunks. Its probably had close on 10,000 rounds through it. So unsure how much more another 3,000 would do.
I'll try and pull the bolt apart and have a look at why. Will also try and film it over the weekend.
Cheers

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Originally Posted by mudgripz

Marlin 25N a good bolt action 22. I would guess its 70s or 80s - what are the first 2 serial numbers? Was followed by the 925/980 models etc, then later the XT models and these are not as good. Yep some are Remlins.

Do what mimms suggests. You could also maybe disassemble bolt and use a slightly heavier grade oil on bolt/action. Not usually recommended. Marlin 25s, 925s, 880/882series, 980 etc not known to give many probs. Simple rifles with good barrels - reliable and surprisingly accurate. Some of them down to 0.3 groups at 50m - and all I've owned/benched capable of 0.4s. Keep it..

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First 2 numbers are 97 so 2003 build from what i can find. . I brought it about 18 years ago. So about right.
It shoots well. Same as 795 i brought on your recommendation.

https://youtu.be/2JA6Ld2I9PA Unsure if that clip shows how loud the clunk is.
I am wonder if it is when the bolt rotates and this pin moves in and out of the divot.
Attachment 178259

Yes def 2003 - didn't know the 25s were still made then - mostly 925 designation. I've had the 925s with same bolt and no unusual noise. Should be readily fixable..

Probably pay to keep your thumb out of it in future.
But it is noisy isn't it.

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Originally Posted by mudgripz

Yes def 2003 - didn't know the 25s were still made then - mostly 925 designation. I've had the 925s with same bolt and no unusual noise. Should be readily fixable..

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It has 25N stamped on it and pretty sure the manual which i can't find is labelled 25N as well.

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Originally Posted by erniec

Probably pay to keep your thumb out of it in future.
But it is noisy isn't it.

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Yes you would have thought after 20+ years of swinging hammers the thumbs would learn to keep their distance.

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Originally Posted by mimms2

Assume it's cock-on-opening so is this loudness when you lift the handle?

You could smooth/ round off the "hill" between the "valleys" as long as there's enough detent there to hold FP as you work bolt back (little valley). Doesn't need to be as much as in pic.
After 10k round though it should pretty well worn "to spec" though.

You could also weaken the mainspring. A little at a time or you might end up with light strikes.

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The loudness is when you close or open the bolt. Right at the point when you've finished pushing forward and starting to lower the handle.
I've read they are a bit of a prick to disassemble to get the spring out. I haven't looked into it further. Will have another look today.

I would have thought after that many it would have worn in.

Cheers for your help.

@Ranal I think that’s pretty normal, I have the 882 version and it’s pretty clunky like yours. Other than that idiosyncrasy, they are accurate little shooters

I polished a bit more of the hill between the valleys. Maybe a very slight improvement. Will have another go today at removing a bit more.
While the bolt was pulled apart completely, degreased and brakleen'd everything. Will try a really light oil.
Tried to get a video but when closing the bolt, the pin at the very rear of the bolt seems to actually get lifted out of the little divot over the hill then drops back into the next valley. Also seems to rotate a small amount while doing this.
Average video but hard filming such a small piece.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbzypSDVbxo

Shouldn't do that i wouldnt have thought. Almost like someone has ground the sear back a mm and the firing pin drops before engaging. I doubt that has actually happened but there is something wrong in the bolt timing imo that needs close observation

It looks as if when the firing pin is drawn back it is binding/being caught on or by something . An internal inspection of in side the bolt may show it or mark/blue the firing pin to see if there are any drag marks ?. Removing metal from the rear of the bolt can cause ignition/firing issues .

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Originally Posted by mimms2

Then it would be slam-firing, no?

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No, what I meant and didn't explain properly is that the firing pin should be caught and held on the sear as the bolt rotates and lets the firing pin move forward in one motion all correctly timed. What looks to be happening is like the firing pin 'jumps' forward ( or back on opening) and slams the bolt down or up because of too much play somewhere ???

When i brought the rifle ammo was cheap and brought a slab of 5,000 rounds of Highland ammo which back then shot amazingly well out of the rifle. That didn't last long and its certainly had a fair amount through it after that.

There is a spring held between 2 collars on the firing rod.(main bolt body firing pin is separate in front section) and my thought so far is that when you start camming the bolt down against the trigger/ sear? its actually twisting the collar ever so slightly against the spring pressure then its being flicked back around? But the collar is pinned to the rod so would explain the rear of the bolt twisting.

I will try and get some better photos.

I am not sure if removing any metal from the little hill would cause firing issues as it isn't held in that position when being fired.

Cheers for all of the help so far.

Here are some photos of the bolt apart. Now i've degreased and cleaned everything i can see some marks that im guessing are from the burr around the red warning piece. Ill file those smooth.
There also seems to be a couple little marks where the spring has dug into the collar which is normally locked in place by the small screw holding it all inside the main piece of the bolt. Very small i've tried to get the best photo possible.
Attachment 178469
Attachment 178470
Attachment 178471

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Originally Posted by ripped undies

is it just a noise or a notchy feel to it as well

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Noisy doesn't feel like its got a notch or divot its working through.

The first photo shows the main bolt body section at top left. Does that section show any galling or binding marks, esp were a collar rotates ?

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Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

The first photo shows the main bolt body section at top left. Does that section show any galling or binding marks, esp were a collar rotates ?

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Are you meaning the section enlarged in the second photo? Or where indicated in this photo. As that is where the second collar is approx. (first collar being the one next to the safety indicator red dot.) As that does show a rub mark which i think is from the red piece being press fitted and the burr around the edge. I've now filed this off and removed any burr left inside the bolt body. Thought it had improved it but must have been the way i was holding my tongue as after a couple cycles of the action back to the same sound.

Cheers
Attachment 178706

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Originally Posted by mimms2

That spring looks like shit. Fix it.
You want evenly stacked coils, and square ends. It could be that the end of the spring is gouging into the "thrust washer" or whatever is taking up it's torsion, and "clunking" out of that groove.

I assume oratia is the oratia of west auckland... surely there's someone handy with files out there that will sort this out in a jiffy.

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I'll give it a go. My guess is that since the end of the spring is digging into one of the collets it is rotating it and clocking it wrong and making it go out of line. Currently don't have any pin punches to knock the pin out of the collect but will get some once out of lockdown and have a go at rounding / flattening the end of the spring and removing the burrs.

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Originally Posted by mimms2

Everywhere that was-but-no-longer-is blued on that bolt is a sliding surface.
Like I said... doesn't look like a lot of wear so implies it's patchy contact areas. I'd say the whole fit and finish of the thing isn't exactly top spec.
Anyway, Why is any of this a problem? Do you need to action it quietly? Are you emotionally attached to it? Sell it and buy a quieter thing?

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I never expected it to be top spec and agree it is pretty patchy on the contact areas. I didn't have the money for a flasher rifle at the time.

It out shoots me now, why sell it and buy something quieter if it only takes a little work to just make this quiet. I'm also stuck at home running out of jobs, cleaning rifles was one of them. It reminded me and thought i would have a go and see if people knew how to fix it.

I want to make it quieter as it quite audible when reloading after you've shot something like a magpie / rabbit and the rest seem to be able to hear it. Otherwise it a lovely quiet rifle. You the click of the trigger and the projectile hitting something.

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Originally Posted by Ranal

Are you meaning the section enlarged in the second photo? Or where indicated in this photo. As that is where the second collar is approx. (first collar being the one next to the safety indicator red dot.) As that does show a rub mark which i think is from the red piece being press fitted and the burr around the edge. I've now filed this off and removed any burr left inside the bolt body. Thought it had improved it but must have been the way i was holding my tongue as after a couple cycles of the action back to the same sound.

Cheers
Attachment 178706

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The piece of the bolt assembly that is at the centre right hand side of the photo is the piece I am referring to. It is machined to accept a retaining collar. Where is the collar @Ranal ? Is the bolt assembled correctly ?
Looking at the photos provided it looks like the collar on the firing pin should be removed, the pin slid inside the centre right piece and the collar replaced on the firing pin. As Mimms wrote the spring is rubbish and it may also be the wrong and too short spring

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Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

The piece of the bolt assembly that is at the centre right hand side of the photo is the piece I am referring to. It is machined to accept a retaining collar. Where is the collar @Ranal ? Is the bolt assembled correctly ?
Looking at the photos provided it looks like the collar on the firing pin should be removed, the pin slid inside the centre right piece and the collar replaced on the firing pin. As Mimms wrote the spring is rubbish and it may also be the wrong and too short spring

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As far as i can see on the parts diagram it is assembled correctly. Prior to this it had never been apart so unless it came from the factory incorrectly. The striker, spring and collars all slide in from the left held in place with a screw. Other piece just slots on indexed by a pin.
Did a bit of googling for pictures of Marlin bolts and came across this video. Spring seems to be just the same when he pulls it apart. https://youtu.be/8KSdhEJ1_xo?t=287
Also shows how i can get it apart to remove the burrs from the collar.

Thanks for all of the help. I'll just keep chucking ammo through it and see if it finally wears in more.
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