Can you buy a muzzle break and then get your barrel threaded or is it best to get the two jobs done together? Pretty keen to get my one for my WSM. Want to lesson muzzle jump so I don't lose sight picture as much.
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Can you buy a muzzle break and then get your barrel threaded or is it best to get the two jobs done together? Pretty keen to get my one for my WSM. Want to lesson muzzle jump so I don't lose sight picture as much.
You better off getting done together as the smith can turn the end down to match your barrel profile, however you can buy separately just make sure the brake is threaded in a pitch your barrel can be safely threaded in.
You can as long as there's enough meat in the barrel to be able to thread it to the one that's in the break. Watch out for larger threads like 5/8x24 and bigger if you have a light contour barrel
You can buy the brake first, then supply it with the barrel to have it fitted, presumably not by yourself ?
Make sure the brake you get has the right pilot bore so that can be enlarged to give say a minimum 20 thou clearance ( 10 thou/side ) for the bullet. The brakes pilot bore enlargement step is done with the brake done up on the barrel, in the same lathe setup when the muzzle threads are cut. Then it gets BORED out to final size,
And get a brake with the largest thread size you can get away with, and still have enough of a shoulder for the brake to be screwed up against. Only if your barrel is like a pencil in size will u be forced to cut a really small thread.
Ya see lots of barrels with plenty of meat to fit a larger thread, but they have a stupid small 1/2" thread type.
I have fitted brakes to a couple of my rifles and have set them up - after modifying them - so the crown can be cleaned with the brake on. Seems a no-brainer to do that but some are supplied so you can't clean the crown without removing the brake. That's just another hassle plus the brake soon enough ends up not being indexed properly ( except the radial type ) as the threads wear.
As with suppressors I always suggest that you get both done by the same person. This avoids complications in the event of warranty issues and usually avoids hassle and questions when being done. In the event of a warranty issue you wont get the brake maker saying it is a fitting issue and the threading / fitting person saying it is a brake issue.
I also had this pop up with insurance where the company I had my Motorbike with stated the protective clothing and helmet was clothing and covered by my contents cover, where as the Contents insurance said it was safety gear for the motorbike and should be included with the motorbike cover. Turns out in this case I was apparently "Self insured" and had to replace it at my cost, which hurt as the accident was someone else's fault.
Had both policies been with the same company, they can argue all they like but at the end of the day that company has it covered.....
Cheers guy's. Looking at either D Maisey or a Terminator break.
I’ve got a Maisey muzzle brake for my 300wsm and it’s awesome. Highly recommend. I call it my loudener.
T2 would be my recommendation, and others have said get the threading dome by same outfit. Also they are then able to give you advice on the best thread for your barrel.
You can have a muzzle break thread cleaned out and rethreaded to a larger/different thread. I guess it would be easier on a round one rather than square or oblong in cross section.
Got a price off both guys. Will start putting money aside for a T2 break off Greg. Hopefully I can get one fitted before Xmas if not it will be early Jan.
Terminator.
Hang on let me be more decisive, Terminator! :thumbsup:
I have a terminator brake on my 300WSM it’s awesome, as is there service.
And that's muzzle "brake" (as in stop), not "break", (as in wreck).
T2 on my 7 Rem Mag. Great performance and looks good too.
Maisey’s brakes look ugly to my eye and from what I have seen they are not as effective. I’m not a fan of radial brakes either.
@300wsm for life the diameter of you barrel at the muzzle will determine which thread spec is appropriate
Measure that and then talk to one of the brake suppliers or your gunsmith to get recommendations on what thread spec to go for.
And another vote for the terminator t2 !
T2 all the way, my quatromax is about to get the boot for another t2. No comparison
The terminator's are great. However I have had a number of customers fit the dpt brake and report back that they are also excellent .
I went with a Maisey Tresamax (side ported) because I wanted to try the less aggressive 10 degree porting which should be quieter than the T2 (which I believe is 30 degrees?)
I've only fired a few shots but its hard to imagine that a break could work much better, small percentages for possibly twice as much shooter experienced noise?
But it would be great to compare side by side with the same rifle and load...for me its mostly about sight picture and I'm open to being proved wrong...
There comes a point mate when it's all just rhetoric.
And some people do like to write and talk a lot of dodgy 'science', known by some as BS.
The only reason I bought a Megamax brake was that I could see it was going to be the easiest brake to modify/improve to work like I wanted it to.Attachment 118648
I have run the thread right through into the rear port, then opened up the rear port just a little to allow cleaning the muzzle crown without having to remove the brake.
T1 on my tikka 300WSM. Very effective for a tiny little brake. Don’t feel I need anything bigger.
@Tuckerbox how do you find the T1 with muzzle jump?
Fine. Good form helps too. But spotting shots is easy enough. I wanted to keep weight down and at half the weight (I’m pretty sure) of a T2 it looked like the right option. Looks clean as on there as well if that’s important to you.
Attachment 118670Attachment 118671
Cheers.