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Thread: Norinco JW15A 22 LR

  1. #1
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    Norinco JW15A 22 LR

    Hey guys, I bought a JW15 secondhand from the local GS, took it home, have it a quick clean, fiddled with the trigger bits to get it a bit nicer and then took it to the range.

    So far after trying Winchester bulk 555 supersonic, Winchester 40 grain subs, CCI 40 grain subs and browning 40 grain supers, it has only taken a liking to the CCI subs.

    After mucking around with the el cheapo 4x scope that came with it, I chucked my Bushnell 3-9x40 on and had a better view of the target as I was shooting.

    Will get some picks up tonight.

    It has the plastic stock on it which is fairly functional but quite flexi in the fore end. Any tips to stiffen this up?

    Also I have the action screws torqued to 25 inch pounds, anyone have a number I should be using for this?

  2. #2
    Member Cartman's Avatar
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    Buy a wooden stock. Or you can do the carbon fibre arrow stiffen job on thw fore end. Epoxy or bedding compund to set them in. A quock google should put you on thw right track. Mudgrips is the 22 guru hes made a few of these nice rifles from memory.

    Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
    Rated M for Magnum likes this.

  3. #3
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    Drill a 1/2 hole in the end of plastic stock and fill up with liquid polystyrene.Let it set as it expands out of yr drilled hole,file off and tape over hole.Your stock will be a lot stiffer.
    Cartman likes this.

  4. #4
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    Maybe if I say his name three times he'll appear... @mudgripz @mudgripz @mudgripz
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    unfortunately those plastic stocked JW-15s are a bit hit-and-miss for accuracy. The Polytech and Gun City ones are pretty average .

    Earlier , wooden stock ones are the best of the lot - but they can all be made better with not a lot of money spent.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by sportco62 View Post
    unfortunately those plastic stocked JW-15s are a bit hit-and-miss for accuracy. The Polytech and Gun City ones are pretty average .

    Earlier , wooden stock ones are the best of the lot - but they can all be made better with not a lot of money spent.
    I'm not looking to move mountains, just if there are any easy tips like torque settings but I can probably figure that out myself

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    Roughen the inside of the foreend, and use a small amount of boatbuilding epoxy resin with microballons in it to lower the density. Hugely stiff, impervious, and sticks like poo to a fancy bed covering. Then pillar bed the thing, job done as good as you can with one of those stocks.

    Re: torque settings, the plastic in the stock is compressible so unless you pillar bed forget setting to a torque. Just tight (that's the 'just' tight not mechanic red face tight then a little bit more torque to yield...) and a bit, say 1/8 more of a turn. You'll be pretty repeatable if you do that each time, just don't go too much.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trout View Post
    Drill a 1/2 hole in the end of plastic stock and fill up with liquid polystyrene.Let it set as it expands out of yr drilled hole,file off and tape over hole.Your stock will be a lot stiffer.
    With the action in place?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by No.3 View Post
    Roughen the inside of the foreend, and use a small amount of boatbuilding epoxy resin with microballons in it to lower the density. Hugely stiff, impervious, and sticks like poo to a fancy bed covering. Then pillar bed the thing, job done as good as you can with one of those stocks.

    Re: torque settings, the plastic in the stock is compressible so unless you pillar bed forget setting to a torque. Just tight (that's the 'just' tight not mechanic red face tight then a little bit more torque to yield...) and a bit, say 1/8 more of a turn. You'll be pretty repeatable if you do that each time, just don't go too much.
    I've got some of Nathan Foster's stock stabiliser, that should work?

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    Yep... Denser though, meaning heavier.

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    Bugger - team out bunny shooting tonight - they'll pop 50-100 and I'm not with them So - time for some basic thoughts for your JW accurising:

    * When you begin to tighten the front king screw or bedding screw, ensure first you are holding barrel in centre of barrel channel as you do so. Avoids side channel contact and uneven barrel pressures. (You don't need to free float sporter 22s - test them thoroughly first. Floating sometimes works - at other times you're left trying to recreate barrel pressures.. True.)
    * 25lbs is alot of torque. Max pressure is not necessarily max accuracy. Start alot lower - maybe 5-10lbs, then shoot two groups, then 15, another two groups (one group can be random), until you find its torque sweet spot. This varies between rifles.
    * Don't worry about synthetic forestock flex. This only happens when you apply lateral stock pressure with forearm, and this is something you do not want. Whether standing freehand, sitting, prone, or off the bench, principal job of forestock hand is to cradle rifle steadily - with at times perhaps just a tad of pressure back into shoulder. If you are pressuring forestock laterally enough to bend it slightly you are creating unwanted barrel pressures - wrong positional pressures - and what you impose at forend of rifle has to be offset at butt end of rifle. You don't want any distorting pressures. Don't worry about possible bends to forestock - just get your front and rear positional pressures onto rifle dead right with firm steady secure grip with pressure into shoulder and cheekweld, but no compensating for uneven hold pressure anywhere. Reducing variables helps consistent accuracy...Single good group may win a shoot-off, but it'll never get us there. Positional pressure balance.

    For your accuracy - given reasonably calm conditions - three significant variables:
    * The rifle - you're finding out its capability as you test. Accuracy varies with any make. JWs usually around 0.4" at best - worst I tested was about 1". Yes a Polytech or GC one.
    * The ammo - alot of present hunting ammos are poor. Keep trying makes - sometimes we test 10-20 types. JWs usually like one or more of the older higher quality hunting ammos eg Aussie Powerpoint, Mexican made Fiocchi, Mexican made Aguila Superextra, and CCI. If not having much luck try and find some of this. Remember its an accurate hunting round you need to shoot in rifle - we don't use match ammos in field. Not alot of difference with quality hunting ammos between HV and Subs for 50 and 100m groups - for standard barrel sporters. Match subs of course better - usually.
    * You - if you're an experienced past/present competition shooter, or spend regular time on the range, you may well get the best from your JW. But if you don't do this, do limit your expectations. Once you've found its preferred ammo, time and range practice are needed to get best from rifle - and you. And the rest of us.

    Hope this might help.. Cheers mudz (Note - others may have slightly different positional balance ideas to mine.)
    Last edited by mudgripz; 16-11-2023 at 11:20 PM.
    Trout, Ranger 888, kukuwai and 2 others like this.

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    Thanks Mudz, I do appreciate your input. I'll have a play around with the torque on that front screw next time out, hopefully tomorrow.

    I don't think anyone nearby stocks the Aguila but I'll look around next time I'm at the local. I didn't measure any groups today but I've got some target photos in here to show what I mean. CCI subs were by far the best I tried today. Groups were shot at 50 yards from a bench with sand bags, possibly would have been better prone but there you go.

    Photos are not cooperating so I'll measure...each ammo got two 5 shit groups.

    Winchester supers 2.35" and 2.2"
    Winchester subs (USA) 1.43" and 2.12"
    Browning supers 1.71" and 1.71"
    CCI subs 1.02" and 0.92". Both CCI groups had 2 through one hole as well so may improve with torque experiments?
    Attached Images Attached Images   

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    If the rifle has not been used a lot, it may need a few hundy rounds through it before it settles down. Don't despair!
    Rated M for Magnum likes this.

  14. #14
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    CCI subs worked best in my old jw,touching holes at 30yds.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger 888 View Post
    If the rifle has not been used a lot, it may need a few hundy rounds through it before it settles down. Don't despair!
    No despair it'll kill rabbits and hare just fine with all the ammos I've put down it so far, the CCI will hit what it's pointing at out to 50 yards, maybe further and that's plenty for my purpose.

    I think the rifle has not had much work judging by the stock, it looks almost new! The action needs a bit of smoothing out but I can do that over time, time may do it for me

    I'm going to try these ammos again but I'm pretty happy with how it shoots with the CCI subs.

 

 

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