Out of alignment reciever ring mounts Rem700

Good thing I have a fair crop of hair as this has been driving me nuts. I have recently turned a 6BR into a 243AI on a Rem700 action. Previously the rifle ran with a EGW one piece base, nightforce rings and a Sightron SIII scope. Now I have a Swaro scope and had planned to run Talley Ultralight rings. With the Sightron I had no issues (it did have 100MOA internal windage though) but with the Swaro it looks like my rear ring is on the piss. Initally I ran out of windage in the scope trying to get onto paper. We lapped the shit outta the rings as they were not great (new to Talleys, and general consensus was they do usally require a good lap). Tried a second set of Talleys and they too had the scope out of alignment (although not as bad). I have now gone to Leupold steel rings with the rear windage base. Not really what I want though. All those screws and play in the bases don't cry precision to me.
Anyway the guts of what i'm asking is. How can I prove the reciever is drilled croocked? I kind of have by default but would like to know for sure, and any thoughts on what to do next?
FYI the barrel was fitted by Trueflight and the action has been trued so I doubt the barrel is on the piss.

Get someone to set it up in a mill James. Run a scribe line thru the screw holes length ways and it will tell you if they are on the piss. The action could also be twisted slightly.

Out of alignment screw holes are not unknown on Remingtons. The other way that might solve is is Burris Singnature rings with the inserts. They come with offset inserts to give you the cant without having to use a canted base, also the inserts will swivel in the rings which might correct the out of alignment screw holes.

Just had it own the machine shop and on a flat bed with the screws in it measues up pretty straight. Aaargh WTF is wrong. The rings lap uneven with a lapping bar. The Burris do look like a good option. I just dont want bases and rings. I wold like to keep it nice and low. The Talley low rings were perfect.

I used Burris rings with an 20MOA offset for my sh*tty Kalinka AK rail. Friggen thing advertised adjustable mount for windage and elevation.
Of course when it arrived it was pinned and made by blind thumbless monkeys. I didn't even bother trying it without the offsets.
Only compensated for the windage, as the crooked elevation actually gives me around an extra 10MOA.

Ended up being within 5" off the bull staight away, no bore sighting (semi).

I think the 5-20MOA Burris offsets are only for 1" scope rings.

I have slotted mount holes in the mill and set it on the lathe with tool post running back and forward to check alignment then when its right remove it and glue screw it in place double check its right before the epoxy sets.. In my case is was the base as when test the screws were pretty good.

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Originally Posted by dogmatix

I used Burris rings with an 20MOA offset for my sh*tty Kalinka AK rail. Friggen thing advertised adjustable mount for windage and elevation.
Of course when it arrived it was pinned and made by blind thumbless monkeys. I didn't even bother trying it without the offsets.
Only compensated for the windage, as the crooked elevation actually gives me around an extra 10MOA.

Ended up being within 5" off the bull staight away, no bore sighting (semi).

I think the 5-20MOA Burris offsets are only for 1" scope rings.

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I have 30mm burris signature and it came with the offsets

been thinking about your problem, if the screw holes are pretty much perfectly in line with the centreline of the action have a look and see if they have been drilled on an angle, should be pretty easy to see if you put the screws in without the mounts. it would only take one of the back screw holes to be on the piss and it would twist the mount.

To check I put another pair of Talley low ultra light rings on the bare barreled action. I then fitter a pair of 1" alignment bars from a Wheeler kit (1" round bar with the ends turned down to points). The two bars pointed out by about 1mm front to rear. Can't identify which is the culprit but I would say the eyecrometer suggests the rear. I have a gunsmith looking at it now. Maybe re drill and tap @ a larger screw size?

Allmost everything made in the Remington factory has been binned or traded and the cnut of a thing still fights me all the way.

At the risk of laughing at your pain James and I dont want to knock it BUT Everyone suggests a 700 for a build because there is lots of aftermarket bits for them. There is a reason for that.

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Originally Posted by veitnamcam

At the risk of laughing at your pain James and I dont want to knock it BUT Everyone suggests a 700 for a build because there is lots of aftermarket bits for them. There is a reason for that.

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Sorry to hear James.The swaro sitiing on the old BSA zeroed is 5 clicks from center:thumbsup:

I put Loopy windage adjustable rings and bases on it to do some fire forming and shot this @ 200yAttachment 1811.
Pulled one, but for slapped together loads she is showing a lot of promise.
I am damn near close enough to ordering a decent action outa the US just to be rid of this Remington curse once and for all.

:thumbsup: a lot more fun than cleaning cream ao wheat out of your barrel

Nice:cool: But if the wind age adj ring have it sorted :wut:

Acually I seem to remember having a set of windage adjsutable prws that didn't need bases.In fact I may still have them if you want?
Edit: but then its a remington and needs bases anyway :x_x:

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Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Nice:cool: But if the wind age adj ring have it sorted :wut:

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Im pretty unfamiliar with the Loopy ones I used and they just look too complicated i.e. too many points to fail. They were also too high with mediums and too low with lows, I had to have a stock raiser on it to get a good cheek weld. The Talley UL lows were perfect in height.

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Originally Posted by stug

I have 30mm burris signature and it came with the offsets

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Zero off sets? Or were they actually 5, 10 and 20 MOA offset?

I had the same thing on my remmy and it turned out that the barrel is screwed on crooked which when i found out i posted on the forum and everybody pipes up "thats quite common didnt you know that?"
Needless to say there are no remingtons in the safe just T3's and Trg
To be fair once i put adjustaable bases on it did shoot well but so does the finnish family with out any mods!

Just one thing I note the action was trued....did they check the recoil lug? I have one here that wasn't flat so got an defensive edge one for F/all and only got charged $6 freight...

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Originally Posted by leathel

Just one thing I note the action was trued....did they check the recoil lug? I have one here that wasn't flat so got an defensive edge one for F/all and only got charged $6 freight...

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Front to rear the rings are on the piss. i.e. they are not in line with each other in an angular plane. I'm betting the rear hole in the back ring is not in the center line with the rest, canting the rear ring. The action has been trued, and I have had a PT&G oversized lug installed so that also should be true. The barrel was fitted by True Flight and I am confident it also is straight.

Update. As I type, the gunsmith has just rung and the rear hole is out 0.4mm. Will re-drill and tap. Yay problem sussed.

Kiwi James,

Sorry I haven't read all the replies but are the scope bases and or rings, the problem! ???

Doh!
Homer

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Originally Posted by dogmatix

Zero off sets? Or were they actually 5, 10 and 20 MOA offset?

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zero and 20 offset only.

FUCK

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Originally Posted by kiwijames

FUCK

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they fuckup the recutting of the hole?? snap the tap off?

Holes too far apart, and possibly the wrong end anyway. Fucking amatures. Now my reciever looks like swiss cheese AND is still no better.

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Originally Posted by kiwijames

Holes too far apart, and possibly the wrong end anyway. Fucking amatures. Now my reciever looks like swiss cheese AND is still no better.

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Could you post a pic please

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Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Could you post a pic please

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Gone burger! on its way to Greymouth to get some tuiman magic.

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Originally Posted by kiwijames

Gone burger! on its way to Greymouth to get some tuiman magic.

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It realy pisses you off when the people that are in the "trade" are trusted to do a job....then let you down : /

I would have taken a 0.5-1mm skim off the bottom of the caps, then line bored the now under sized and oval rings.
Same thing gets done all the time with conrods and main journals

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Originally Posted by Spanners

I would have taken a 0.5-1mm skim off the bottom of the caps, then line bored the now under sized and oval rings.
Same thing gets done all the time with conrods and main journals

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Would have to take a lot off to get that 0.4mm back, and then your stuck with those rings.Better to sort the action IMHO

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Originally Posted by kiwijames

Gone burger! on its way to Greymouth to get some tuiman magic.

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He should sort it for ya;)