Re tension a spring?

What are the thoughts on reshaping a 'spring' clip to put a tad more tension in to it?
My CZ has a 'C' clip spring that tensions the extractor claws.
They go soft after a while. Probably BRNO do it too?
Could just remove it, pinch it in a tad to make it tighter but then it will probably stretch back somewhat as I refit it.
My old engineering boss heated springs red hot and bent them (car leaf springs), and let them air cool.
Reckoned they didn't lose their 'springiness' that way.
I thought maybe heat red hot, squeeze it a tad tighter and then...? Air cool? Drop in to oil, remove when cold, reheat gently to a straw colour, quench in water?
Buy a new one (yes, already have but one day the supply will dry up).
Make a new on from some of that strapping steel? Would that stuff be OK? If so, where do I get a short length?
Photos show it, and how it looks when fitted.
Thanks for any help/advice.

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Go see george at rollos locksmiths his old boss mark imports small packs of spring steel in various sizes not very dear and have flats and rounds in packs mention nick from lokrite told you

You basically have the right idea re harden and temper though a couple of things. When you initially harden it quench in oil not water, I also find an easy way to temper it is place I small tray of old engine oil (like a tin lid), keep playing a torch around it so the oil burns off but don’t actually play the torch on the spring, let it naturally cool and all good.

It would be a tricky part to remake as it is likely to crack when you bend the tabs

Another option is try try kilwell, they might have replacements

Cheers
Darren

When you are happy with the tension after bending then bring it to a full cherry red on a piece of flat steel by heating under the steel then allow to air cool. It is now fully annealed. Repeat the performance to cherry red and flick the spring into a can of engine oil. It is now dead hard and brittle so be careful. Polish the spring to a bright finish with fine wet & dry paper and replace on the steel plate and gently reheat the plate until the spring is a nice blue colour, then flick back into oil. You now have a spring which will hold tension. The secret to refitting the springs to avoid straining them is to get one leg in the correct position then carefully ease the spring into place over the other side using a small thin bladed screwdriver.

Thanks guys.
Yes, I have already ordered a new spring and extractors from Kilwell.
As I single load, the extractors both open up at the same time to go over the rim of the case (which I have part loaded into the chamber by hand).
If I loaded from a magazine then the rim would simply slide up behind the extractors as I closed the bolt, and no problems then.
So it's probably an ongoing thing for me.
I will try to tighten and tension the 2 old spring clips I have so that I have them as spares.
Just now playing with modifying the single shot adapter to allow the round to sit down at the back further, so that it will slide up behind the extractor claws as the bolt closes. That may be all I need to do (if it works and I don't bugger the adapter).

Your over thinking the fuck out if it

Measure the O/D with callipers

Squash slightly until 2 mm smaller at the open end

Refit and carry on hunting

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Your over thinking the fuck out if it

Measure the O/D with callipers

Squash slightly until 2 mm smaller at the open end

Refit and carry on hunting

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Tried that. Sadly, they do lose their 'spring' after a couple of goes.
That does work for a short while but then goes 'soft' once again.
I'm figuring on squashing it slightly, as you suggest, then heat treat it so that it wants to stay at the new smaller size.
Oh, and not hunting. It's for benchrest so I probably shoot a few more rounds each week than just a hunting rifle.

Sharpen the clip where it contacts the brass, they round over and lose their grip