Thread: Remington accuracy

them rings look like the $20 alloy specials from bottom drawer......but if they arent moving,they shouldnt be an issue.

Originally Posted by Flyblown

A top tip to test if it is the lack of free floated barrel and bedding, is to cut a small rectangle of Coke can alloy and place it under the action at the front, to lift the barrel out of the forend slightly. When you've done that and tightened the action screws, check to see if you can get a piece of A4 paper all the way down to the recoil lug...

There's so much flex in SPS stocks, you'd need over five thicknesses of paper clearance to have even reasonable certainty it was actually floating. If the OP had said he was testing with a bipod, that would be my first suspicion.

Originally Posted by CamFlatt

Pretty sure it's free floating, but will confirm tomorrow. Researching it seemed like bedding the spa stocks didn't make much difference, but happy to be proved wrong

Every single synthetic stock I've had - Tikkas and Remingtons - have responded very positively (i.e. measurably) to being pillar bedded. Easy to do, biggest win. The Howas are pillar bedded at the factory.

Before you start making any drastic changes, get a mate (preferably one that consistently shoots good groups) to shoot the rifle, and also try it without the suppressor.

If that does not make a difference, find someone on here close to you that has a torque screw driver, and check the action screws, bases and ring screws.

Also would not hurt trying different ammo, maybe something lighter or heavier than your current bullet. Sometimes rifles just don't like a particular load.

Hows the crown look?

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Not to be a smart A*** but could you be suffering from a parallax error with your scope ?

One quick way to check is to shoot a group when you have a/the uniform thickness shadow around your exit pupil in the ocular lens.

Did it used to shoot better? Or is this a new rifle? How hot was the barrel after a few shots? That can ruin accuracy. Or heaven forbid, has the barrel been mushroomed? Maybe a little oil left in it and then it's fired? One thing you might feel for is if the friction lets up for a moment when you run the brush through it, that will be the mushroom.

Seeing a lot of this sort of problem lately. "Buy new rifle, poke scope on and it doesn't shoot".

Have helped a few folk out with Remington's, tikka, howa's and even some sako's. In each case I've helped with, removing any and all screws/threads; put them all back together at the right torque settings and the issues are normally solved.

Ensure to include the action screws, surpressor and surpressor bushing.


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I've owned two rifles like this in stock factory configuration. One was a .270. It would shoot to an inconsistent POI or it would double group, no matter what I did. I assume that it was the flexible plastic stock and funky pressure points. Or the barrel was trash. Or both.

The second one I had was a .308, that was amazingly accurate and consistent. Then I chopped the barrel and put it in chassis and it shot like aids.

I'd try it with a different scope. E.g a leupold. Could you get a loaner off a smith, a store or somebody on here?

I've had trouble with much more expensive scopes. It's worth giving it a shot.

The Remmy SPS's aren't benchguns by any means, but provided there's not something seriously astray (loose screws etc), it should be fine.

So with all this great input did you get this sorted ?

Check that suppressor is screwed on tightly. If it isn't tight, the inconsistent vibration will play havoc with accuracy.

Remove bolt and check that everything lines up from the chamber end. I had a 303 with a suppressor that belled and became misaligned with the bore, throwing groups of about 20cm. Next thing that happened was the reticle became dislodged, but then I couldn't hit the side of a barn at 20m. But that was a Tasco.

sounds like baffle strike in your suppressor or loose in either the stock or rings

Iv seen scopes fail but its uncommon compared to human error when setting up a rifle

Shoot some groups without suppressor, a smooth bore would damn near shoot a better group than 20cm at 100m so there's gotta be something wrong, maybe you're getting a baffle strike? Also push a wad through the barrel and feel for any tight spots or loose spots

Originally Posted by ebf

Before you start making any drastic changes, get a mate (preferably one that consistently shoots good groups) to shoot the rifle, and also try it without the suppressor.

If that does not make a difference, find someone on here close to you that has a torque screw driver, and check the action screws, bases and ring screws.

Also would not hurt trying different ammo, maybe something lighter or heavier than your current bullet. Sometimes rifles just don't like a particular load.

Wot he said, start with the simple things and tick them off one by one.
Have the shop recheck all the screw tensions. The scope mount and ring screws should imo be blue loktited to prevent vibrating loose.
Shoot With and without supressor three rounds each should do. Shoot off sandbags and have a consistent cheek weld and hold. Shoot slow and deliberately so the barrel doesnt heat up excessively. Record where each shot falls. The groups will be in different places but thats to be expected as the supressors weight changes the barrels harmonic.
If the second shot is some distance from the first but the third is back close to the first bedding is the problem.
Have someone else shoot the rifle if it shoots fine, you need to be serviced not the gun
Try a different weight bullet.
Looking at a change of optics should only be considered as a last resort.