Sako problems

Hi guys I have a sako 85 7mm rem mag that doesn't seem to be shooting that flash, iv done a heap of load testing and it doesn't seem to be liking the obvious powder/projectile etc combination that every other 7mm mag likes? In the end iv settled on a load using 2209 with the amax which shoots under an inch but I'm getting bugger all speed then what I'd like for long range shooting? I have heard there have been faults with the 85 model I'm just wondering if anyone else has encountered something similar and knows the answer?? I thought about getting the action trued and see if that fixes it? It's bloody starting to cost me some money already ! :pissed off:
Cheers

What's the speed?

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New?

2630, nah bought it second hand. Regretting it abit now!!Attachment 17634

Tell us about the loads you have tried and the results

Well iv tried 2217, 2225, 2209 and re22, with 162 amax, Norma brass federal magnum primers, just touching. Going to try some 160 accubond and see if that makes a difference. So far with 2217, 2225 and re22 the groups have all been about 2 inch or more. It seems to like the 09 as every grain interval shot under an inch which is abit promising?

Some 7RM Sakos don't like the 162, their twist rate at 9.5 can be on the edge of being a little slow.

The 160 ABs will hopefully sort your issues

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Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg

Some 7RM Sakos don't like the 162, their twist rate at 9.5 can be on the edge of being a little slow.

The 160 ABs will hopefully sort your issues

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Yes -but are poor killers of light thin skinned game like Sika, so then the 150 Nosler Ballistic Tip is the next best projectile compared to the amax when the twist rate isn't your friend.

The 150 BT can give some spectacular boom-flop results :)

Fingers crossed men

Give the pill some jump. 0.020" and see how you go.

150 nosler BTs are worth the effort. they seem to be really easy to find accuracy with. and work well on game

Cheers for the help, hopefully it will sort it.
Iv got some 140 BT's so ill give them a crack too. I'm hoping the noslerLR pills will be a shooter also, when I can find the 150s

get your best load and then try seating them down 1mm at a time to you get down to factory length.
it worked in my 22-250 and 6.5

You may want to use a slower powder than 2209 which is ideal for smaller centre fire calibres i.e. 243

This might help.

http://www.adi-powders.com.au/handlo...dition_WEB.pdf

I would try a lighter projectile and give it a bit of jump. Failing that, I would look at headspace. Bit different in a belted mag. If it shoots weaker loads well and as you beef them up it shoots worse sort of has me thinking headspace or sizing could be an issue.

pm me when you have had enough of the amax, I will buy them. :)

Not a problem with your gu, I have two sakos which shoot excellent. Sounds like more load development is needed, have you tried varying seating depths? I would try and sort one load before going to try lots of other powders or projectiles etc

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Originally Posted by jimmy6.5

2630, nah bought it second hand. Regretting it abit now!!Attachment 17634

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If you hold it the other way up it might go better as well:) Those 162's can be a bit fussy.

I just found it a little strange that a couple other guys with 7mm mag sako's loads I tried didn't shoot at all. I have heard of two cases where new guns failed to perform to the sako standards. I'm sure majority are fine just the odd one out of sync.

Jimmy
I have two 85's and they both shoot very well, and they are two totally different types, one is a Stainless Synthetic the other is a wood blue job
This may be basic but..

Since you bought it have you taken it apart, if so is everthing back together properly.
If you think so, or perhaps you haven't, perhaps take it apart again, , do not tighten the action screws up hard, just till they are firm then nip.
Please check the mounts and rings are firm but not overly tight.

Lastly are you 100% positive about the scope?

It's funny you say that mate iv taken it apart dozens of times but last night i done it and a pin fell out the side, iv never had it happen before. Ill try take a photo of what pin to give you guys an idea.
Mounts seem fine and iv got a night force on it which has always been spot on with my previous rifle
Cheers

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Originally Posted by jimmy6.5

It's funny you say that mate iv taken it apart dozens of times but last night i done it and a pin fell out the side, iv never had it happen before. Ill try take a photo of what pin to give you guys an idea.
Mounts seem fine and iv got a night force on it which has always been spot on with my previous rifle
Cheers

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Two pins only on the 75 action: bolt release and ejector pin.

Two photos. One with the pin in and one with it out. Think it's part of the bolt ? Seems to be a snug fit not to loose Attachment 17677Attachment 17678

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Originally Posted by jimmy6.5

Two photos. One with the pin in and one with it out. Think it's part of the bolt ? Seems to be a snug fit not to loose Attachment 17677Attachment 17678

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Ejector pin

B

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jimmy6.5

I just found it a little strange that a couple other guys with 7mm mag sako's loads I tried didn't shoot at all. I have heard of two cases where new guns failed to perform to the sako standards. I'm sure majority are fine just the odd one out of sync.

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I know of a mates brand new 7Rm 85 with new NF, rings rail etc that wouldn't shoot the 162s or 168s or 180s, it went back complete after some negotiation & was replaced, it took a while though...he sold the replacement un-fired.

Yes, I wondered about those two pins. I contemplated pulling them out (mine are quite tight) or else hammering them in thinking they could be loose and working their way out. Looking carefully at the parts diagram in the manual I decided they were both essential and meant to stick out like they do in your first photo. One holds the bolt stop in place.

See this post. In the end, Beretta did get some sub moa groups but not as accurate as other guns Andy Animal has.

An average of several 5 shots groups is quite a high standard of accuracy. Also expensive to verify if using factory ammo. eg Tikka is only guaranteed for 3 shot groups. A lot of shooters will fire 2 or 3 x 3 shot groups and accept the best of them as the rifle's "accuracy".

Mine (7mm08 85 StainlessSynthetic) struggles to group 30mm at 100m. I've thought of several possibilities:
The 3 bolt lugs definitely don't all bear evenly.
The ally bedding block has a nick where I wrestled it out with pliers.
There was a chip out of the plastic in the bedding when I got it (new).
I might have crushed the plastic stock by supertightening the bedding screws.
The side walls of the action touch the stock (Nathan Foster has identified this as a potential problemt .)
Can't reach the lands with mag length reloads.
Could be residual fouling
Maybe it will never shoot real well with a synthetic stock and needs a MacMillan or a bedding job.
Maybe its only spec'd to shoot MOA and the majority of owners won't ever be sure it doesn't shoot better and think that's just fine. Only a few obsessive and confident shooters will complain about it and we don't know if its a 5% problem or 50% are like this.

The annoying thing is that 1" is fine for hunting out to 300m. I'm finding it hard to justify more effort and expense to try and improve on that.

The really great features of the sako are: good trigger, simple reliable action with metal shroud etc, 5 shot detachable metal mag that sits flush in the stock (very few rifles have this), top loading through the action, nice finish, rugged, taper rail and plastic inserts in the optilock rings making trouble free scope mounting by ordinary hunters. So its a very good general hunting rifle out of the box but maybe not a high accuracy design - which all brands need some work to achieve.

My own next step will be to ask Beretta NZ before going for truing, new stock etc. Will be very interested to see any other advice or success stories posted here.

Still watching with interest.
I wouldnt throw the toys yet,I couldnt get amax(differnt cal) to shoot on the lands.
While KG comments are concerning(cos he would know) Id still give em a try at say 20 and 40 tho jump and if still no joy try 7MMsaums suggestion.

Have you tried Bergers

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Originally Posted by 7mm08Roks

Have you tried Bergers

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Tahr burgers :D

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What exactly are your expectations of accuracy?

Can you yourself shoot well with other rifles that have be proven to shoot by others as well?

Something also worth considering is Hornady recommend 1-8 twist for their 162 Amax, which seems to be a fairly fast twist rate considering the Berger 168 is 1-10 & 180 is 1-9 ?

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...ps31abdcb9.jpg

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Originally Posted by jimmy6.5

Two photos. One with the pin in and one with it out. Think it's part of the bolt ? Seems to be a snug fit not to loose Attachment 17677Attachment 17678

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Sorry Jimmy 6.5, I can't help with your accuracy problems (I've got the same cal, Sako 75, and as yet unresolved accuracy issues ), but while the action is out of the stock its a good time to lighten your trigger by turning the adjustment grub screw CCW. The grub screw is in behind the shiny hex head screw (in the photo )that holds the trigger assy to the action.

The two pins both fit into blind holes. They are retained by the inletting in the stock, and should be an interference fit. Be careful if you strip the action down and remove the pins, bolt release and ejector. There is one really small coil spring under the bolt release and two under the ejector... they are not interchangeable.

I stripped my Sako 85 6.5 x 55 down after I drowned it this last winter, and lubed the pins and springs to prevent corrosion setting in.

Good luck, B.

I reckon it will be the fluting on the barrel. Its not factory is it? This is the rifle that was on trade me a few months back?

Yup that's the one Nathan, I can't remember from memory who done the fluting for the previous owner. It had a piece of shit muzzle brake with it that was badly designed and made recoil worse if anything!
Wildman, iv had a 223 and 6.5 and their accuracy was awesome so I think I know what to expect with accuracy and my own ability

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Originally Posted by jimmy6.5

Yup that's the one Nathan, I can't remember from memory who done the fluting for the previous owner. It had a piece of shit muzzle brake with it that was badly designed and made recoil worse if anything!
Wildman, iv had a 223 and 6.5 and their accuracy was awesome so I think I know what to expect with accuracy and my own ability

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I'd never get a good factory barrel fluted. If it's not done correctly it can mess with the harmonics and cause havoc with accuracy. I would have hit the buy now on that rifle if it was standard. I've since brought a brand new 85 same calibre wood stainless.

It had crossed my mind that the barrel fluting may have caused some accuracy fault, It certainly looks awesome hah.
Hopefully not, see what happens with further testing