My Sako wood stock needs a coat of oil. What should I use?
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My Sako wood stock needs a coat of oil. What should I use?
Boiled linseed oil
Never been a fan, had this go badly on me in the past. I have Tru oil. Tempted to go down that road but my plan is to trade this rifle (.243) on a matching rifle in .223 to replace my AR. So I can't afford a stuff up. I have emailed Beretta to see if they sell Sako oil, so I will post the reply.Quote:
Originally Posted by stagstalker
I’m onto 3rd coat of tru oil on my Brno stock and it’s looking sharp,gonna give it one more then a coat of wax maybe,seems pretty easy to use.i stripped it back to bare timber started from scratch.will put a photo up when I’m done.
We sell Schaftol stock oil for the sako & Beretta wood stocksQuote:
Originally Posted by Tussock
Used this sparingly on my Bavarian, works well. My boy uses it on his.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisW
B
There wouldn't be many genuine oil finished stocks out there anymore; maybe some expensive British shotguns but they aren't straight boiled linseed oil anyway.
Have a read of the post by noremf.
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...ghlight=wiping
Always found Truoil good to use and far superior in wood protection to any boiled linseed oil finish. Once the Truoil has hardened, takes at least a month in summer, longer in winter, you can cut the shine back to whatever suits. You can use a high quality 0000 steel wool such as that made by Briwax, not the common Chinese stuff which has little barbs in it that dig into the finish and later cause little rust specks.
Once you get the finish you want, protect it with some silicon free wax such as Renaissance Wax, Briwax or Johnson Wax. If you need to patch up an area just wipe the wax off with white spirits and refinish that area.
Just finished rebuilding my Vixen. Used a very light oil-based walnut stain, and then several applications of Danish oil. Light sand with steel wool once each coat of oil was dry.
Looks mint - real pleased
Attachment 109502
The best thing is Artists Oil (a refined linseed) which is available at any art store, Warehouse, Warehouse Stationery, etc. Inexpensive and quick drying, easily buffed up to a nice sheen. I have been using it for many years.
I should have been clearer I suppose. I have refinished a few stocks from scratch, I like doing up wood stocks.
In this case I want to trade the rifle in next week. It has a dry patch where they previous owner carried it in their left hand. I just want to touch it up in a way that can be done quickly, which means matching the existing oil if possible.
Sounds like I need to buy some oil off @ChrisW
The one I am trading it on (hopefully) is wood/blued so I will tidy up that stock as well, so the oil won't go to waste.
Top stock oil and I use a fair bit of it
@Tussock have you totally stripped out the old finish?
What type of colour are you looking for in the new finish? Dark, dark red our light?
Here’s dark red seven coatsAttachment 109538
If you can wait a day I’ll get you the recipe for this.
Attachment 109544the Brno with 3 coats tru oil.
Sideshow I have a similar setup as yours.great all rounder.
Year she’s a good one. The NZ walnut has quite the grey grain running through it.
American is light grained. English mid, Turkish dark.
If you want the redness to come out you need to add this on the very first coat!
Have a good old recipe that gunmakers use in the UK. Given to me by a guy that trained at Purdy and Holland & Holland.
Now we in business for himself. Helped put together the above rifle. :thumbsup:
I would like this recipe. I will go the full nine yards on the new one I get. Seems from the very poor photograph it is very dark timber. Mine is quite light.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshow
Ohooo how dear you sir pooor photo what!!!:XD:;)
Right strip off the old oil varnish what ever is on it. Leave the checkering alone! Maybe by a checkering tool to run over the old checkering to sharpen it up. But you will need to know what type it is how many checkers per inch.
Wash the stripper off! No not that stripper :redbullsmiley:
Then fine sand bring out any dents with a hot knife and a wet rag. Place wet rag on top of dent then hot knife onto the rag, this will lift dents right out. Next keep sanding add a little water to lift the grain and fine wood then sand again. Keep this up till it’s smooth.
This will keep you busy till I have the recipe.
:ORLY: cheers @Tussock
To bring out the grain on an already oil finished stock, I've found sun-thickened linseed oil (or 'stand' oil) works wonders.
It involves leaving refined (artist grade) linseed oil 'standing' in a metal tray in direct sunlight until it thickens. The longer you leave it, the thicker it gets (several weeks). It's been used by oil painters for centuries as it dries very quickly and resists yellowing with age.
As the oil thickens, it oxidizes and turns into something resembling a thick glue. Unlike linseed oil in its liquid form, the sun thickened stuff dries super fast and gives the wood a more lustrous shine with minimal residue.
One trick I use when sanding to a fine finish is to use heavily thinned artists linseed with 600grit wet n dry carborundum paper. This raises then removes grain abd oils at the same time. If you want extra colour then mix in some stain in the eary stages. Add a very small amount of terrabine to the finishing coats of oil. This aids drying and hardening. Lots of hand rubbing over weeks while lounging by the fire in the evenings on the final hard coat just keeps adding depth and lustre .
I found a way to keep my existing Sako, and robbed the scope off it for my new rifle. So the Sakos stock is the winter project while I save to re-barrel it.
@Tussock. Start with paint strupper and a nail brush, then go to wet n dry wth turps n linseed.
Using this also, goes a long way, nice product.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisW
Shit forgot I’ll get you the recipe
Hi Gundoc, when you say ‘buff’ is this after it has dried?Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
@Tussock that recipe for the gunstock oil....finally!
Buy some Alkanet root. Also some grain filler the best my gun maker recommended is rotten stone powder very fine.
1) Chop the Alkanet root up finely.
2) Put the chopped root into a glass jar (with a lid that seals well).
3) Add sufficient boiled linseed and GENUINE (not substitute) turpentine mixed in a ratio of 5:1 by volume to cover the chopped root and seal the jar.
4) Place in a warm and dark place for a couple of weeks, shaking every couple of days and opening the jar (to ensure the lid doesn't glue itself on) once a week.
5) After a couple of weeks, strain through a old pair of tights to remove bits. Remove wife from tights beforehand :XD:
6) Dilute using just boiled linseed until you have the shade you need. Test this on a similar coloured wood sample.
7) Store in the dark.
The primary colour change occurs with the first and second coat - subsequent coats deepen the colour slightly but can be dispensed with depending on personal choice - and so you don't need much at all. Although I never measure it and always make more than I need, 25ml would probably be plenty (obviously depending on stock porosity/grain filler) - however, it doesn't keep for more than a few weeks.
You need to restrict the air because the boiled linseed and turpentine will lose volatile components, making the resultant mixture more viscous and affecting the colour takeup on the stock - particularly if the walnut is less porous. The sunlight seems to accelerate the inevitable colour change from red/purple to red/brown, and the resultant colour on the stock seems to lose something.
Hope this helps.:thumbsup: Warm it a little before sticking it on!
Just redid my SO4 as the stock was getting a little marked up. I’ll post some photos later:thumbsup:
You're like a real-life witch @SideshowQuote:
Originally Posted by Sideshow
I was totally expecting "and now - throw in your flat-mates nail clippings, a single strand of nose hair from your mother-in-law, and a whole toad".
Best wood stock filler is big foots pubic hair...but you will have to ask Gibo nicely ;):o:XD:
This might be of interest. It’s how they finish best rifle and shotgun stocks the traditional way. Pretty involved, but looks beautiful in the end. Recipes in there too.
https://www.sportingshooter.co.uk/fe...tock-1-5319016
Have heard if you put armourall on first them tru oil it makes it go off reall quick and you can do several coats in a day,some sort of chemical reaction.
Yes. Rimfire central recipe.Quote:
Originally Posted by The bomb
If it's a matt or satin finish stock, you'll need a soft oil like Schaftol which soaks into the grain, but only apply light coats and allow to fully dry for a day or two. Then simply buff with a soft cloth like flannelette.
If it's a more high gloss finish, then you'll need a hard oil like Nill Griffe. Only apply in very light coats, as it drys like a varnish of sorts, and allow to fully dry for several days before soft buffing with a cloth. This is often used on high end pistol grips.
Both products are made in Germany, and unsure where you purchase in NZ, but Hermans Guns in Victoria, Australia were happy to airmail these to me 18 months ago.
Finally got some time to post a few pics of my SO4 that I touched up after four years of use.
Had a few small marks and dents that I sanded and lifted out. Then recoated with the recipe that I posted. Here’s the end result.
Attachment 113195
Attachment 113196
Here’s a pic of the cast:O_O: has to be well bent for me to shoot straight :XD:
Attachment 113197
