Scope alignment methods

I've recently purchased a new scope for my Howa 1500, and have run into the familiar problem of knowing how best to align the scope to the bore to minimise scope cant.

Every time I do this, I end up stuck in an obsessive vortex (excuse the pun) about whether the scope is properly aligned to the rifle. Part of the problem is the action doesn't seem to sit perfectly vertical in the stock, and the rings/bases don't appear perfectly aligned with the action either. So using the scope bases as a horizontal reference has resulted in what looks to be a wonky alignment.

In this case, I ended up taking the action out of the stock and using the flat base of the Howa action as my reference, then aligned the crosshair to a vertical reference - it looks ok, but still feels like it is canted one way.

Probably the easiest (or simplest) answer is to stop obsessing - but it got me curious about what other people's methods are, especially when there isn't an obvious flat reference on the top of the action?

Wheeler scope levelling tool. Probably not necessary for the kind of shooting I do, but it stops the second guessing. You do need a flat section on the action though.

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Originally Posted by MB

Wheeler scope levelling tool. Probably not necessary for the kind of shooting I do, but it stops the second guessing. You do need a flat section on the action though.

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Yes - I should have mentioned I have a similar scope leveling tool - I think it's just the consistent reference is where I'm coming unstuck.

I use the flat base of the action out of the wood - make sure the bench is true using a spirit level - then hang a plumb bob and that is my vertical - how old are you it could be your eyesight if you are using same method and not seeing it as true ( no really )

I made one of these: https://www.brownells.com/optics/rin...le-instrument/

Darn good - no flat surfaces on scope or rifle required. Use the bubble to true the level of the assembled rifle/scope, then rotate the scope in the rings to match a vertical reference. I use a weighted string hanging off the washing line for that.

https://youtu.be/OG8CchRYlDw?si=kpBpjOcU--nB43uW

Check this out it explains a lot

Sent from my CPH2531 using Tapatalk

Wow, a simple method is to put the butt on the ground, floor etc and then tilt the rifle back, hold the barrel tip by fingers very lightly, look into your scope and any deviation becomes obvious.

On this subject, it's amazing how much the scope can rotate when tightening scope screws, so tighten them evenly and keep an eye on it.

I use this.

https://www.wheelertools.com/scope-m...B8JVU_PeYpJOqI

But the video 25/08 IMP posted the link to touches on a key point about turrets not always being level. Plus the presenter isn't a fan of a plumb bob.

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Originally Posted by earplay

I've recently purchased a new scope for my Howa 1500, and have run into the familiar problem of knowing how best to align the scope to the bore to minimise scope cant.

Every time I do this, I end up stuck in an obsessive vortex (excuse the pun) about whether the scope is properly aligned to the rifle. Part of the problem is the action doesn't seem to sit perfectly vertical in the stock, and the rings/bases don't appear perfectly aligned with the action either. So using the scope bases as a horizontal reference has resulted in what looks to be a wonky alignment.

In this case, I ended up taking the action out of the stock and using the flat base of the Howa action as my reference, then aligned the crosshair to a vertical reference - it looks ok, but still feels like it is canted one way.

Probably the easiest (or simplest) answer is to stop obsessing - but it got me curious about what other people's methods are, especially when there isn't an obvious flat reference on the top of the action?

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You don't necessarily want the scope perfectly level when the rifle is levelled on a bench, as when you shoulder the rifle chances are you can't the rifle a little one way or the other.

The easiest way to see if the scope is level is to hang a plumbob and look at it through the scope as you shoulder the rifle.
Make sure you do this a few times and try not look through the scope as you line up on the plumbob string otherwise you'll inadvertently cant the rifle to line up on the string.

There will likely be a small amount of cant between the scope and rifle but it won't matter 99.9% of the time.
If you don't adjust it to you, then you'll either always have the scope canted (probably not the end of the world for most hunters anyway but you'll keep 2nd guessing) or you'll be fighting your bubble level (if you have one).

If you have a chassis/stock with an adjustable cant butt pad, they yes try get the scope level on the rifle first and adjust the buttpad to suit you.

I clip a bubble level each side of pic rail under scope.Bore sight to a plum line about 6 mtrs away.With pic rail level i rotate scope to vertical on plume line.Checking bubbles are good or very close and bore sight perfect to plum line.Just quietly rotate slowly tighning up each scope ring screw a little bit at a time.
Keep checking bubbles and plum line n bore sight as you go.
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This has come up on my YT feed about 50 bloody times in the last week and theres more ways to mount a scope correctly than there is scope manufacturers I think! Sounds like you've done it pretty close to correct, find a flat face on your action and true it to that, then true your cross hairs to a trued vertical - done. Some errors come in to play if you use 2 different levels at the same time, particularly those fiddly little ones they recommend for rifle work. Use the same level for every thing, something a bit bigger than those fiddly things. Pays to not overthink it.

I made a little magnetic doohickey up that sits on the bolt raceways through the ejection port and has a little level on it which works really well for things like Rem round bottom actions and the like. I just can't find it at the moment!!! I need to make another.

But I use a level of some form on the action, and then a level on the scope turrets or somewhere else to get the scope close to level - then double check on a vertical edge that is in the centre of the barrel vertically looking through it to make sure the vertical line on the reticle is the same.

Then I go and confuse the crap outta myself and shoot the thing and zero it, then wind the scope up three or whatever full turns depending on the scope's turret setup and then shoot the same target. It's normally off to one side or the other, and you then have to rotate it back to centreline about half of the error and shoot again then wind back down the same number of turns to check that you're back on the right vertical plane.

And then rezero and then scratch your head as to why the scope's reticle looks on the piss and way off level!!!! If you aren't planning on dialling the scope it's a lot easier haha.

I set rifle up on bipod or gun vice put up a mirror and look through scope mounted on rifle at mirror. Compliment yourself on how good looking you are. Then just get the bottom portion of cross hair to run through center of barrel.

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Originally Posted by PaulNZ

I made one of these: https://www.brownells.com/optics/rin...le-instrument/

Darn good - no flat surfaces on scope or rifle required. Use the bubble to true the level of the assembled rifle/scope, then rotate the scope in the rings to match a vertical reference. I use a weighted string hanging off the washing line for that.

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+1 The only correct method to set up a scope. Centres the scope vertical retical thru bore centre. Most other methods are good enough though for hunting rifles. Dialling up at long range will show up inaccuracies of mounting.

I too made one but eventually bought the Brownells version.

Once the scope is mounted I've also gone to bore sighting using a strong torch thru the ocular lens projected onto a plumb bob string line. With this method I can bore sight very accurately in the length of my gun room. I can also do the vertical travel check, winding the cross hair up and down the string.

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Originally Posted by zimmer

+1 The only correct method to set up a scope. Centres the scope vertival retical thru bore centre. Most other methods are good enough though for hunting rifles. Dialling up at long range will show up inaccuracies of mounting.

I too made one but eventually bought the Brownells version.

Once the scope is mounted I've also gone to bore sighting using a strong torch thru the ocular lens projected onto a plumb bob string line. With this method I can bore sight very accurately in the length of my gun room. I can also do the vertical travel check, winding the cross hair up and down the string.

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This method @PaulNZ looks interesting - I'm not quite following how it works?

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Originally Posted by blip

I set rifle up on bipod or gun vice put up a mirror and look through scope mounted on rifle at mirror. Compliment yourself on how good looking you are. Then just get the bottom portion of cross hair to run through center of barrel.

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Interesting - I'll have to give it a try and see how close I am.

Also optically centre the scope before starting to mount using either the mirror method or count clicks fully one way to the other then come back half way.
If once the scope is mounted you have to use excessive windage clicks to zero your shots there is something wrong with the geometry, one reason being poor quality rings.
It is undesirable to have the scope at windage extremes. Scopes are optically best when their reticles are as close to centre as possible.

Correcting excessive windage also may need windage adjustable rings.
Some rifles are shockers. I've put spirit levels on the back section of the dovetail and it doesn't match a spirit level on the front section of the dovetail. And that was on a name brand of rifle. Likewise fitted rails - spirit level front to back doesn't match. Bushed rings are very forgiving.

I draw a line down the center of an A4 piece of paper, sit the rifle on the line - aligned down the center of the butt and enough of the line sticking out you can see it through the scope. Look down the scope from the barrel end and align with the line.

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Originally Posted by vulcannz

I draw a line down the center of an A4 piece of paper, sit the rifle on the line - aligned down the center of the butt and enough of the line sticking out you can see it through the scope. Look down the scope from the barrel end and align with the line.

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That sounds far too simple ��

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Originally Posted by earplay

That sounds far too simple ��

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Yep, but it works. Don't overthink it, guys!

Yep. Getting the thing mounted to the rifle is but one component.

Shooting it tells you if it's good - what really screws with your head is discovering your expensive new toy as a glass etched (round) reticle and that the round glass isn't in line with your threads.

It's OK winding it up and down with a line right in front of you but you need to get out to leg-stretch distance and wind the full turns up and see which side the round land on the line to know if the scope's adjustment threads are level to the reticle.

I've had a brand new Leupold 45degs on the piss (like the reticle is going to four corners not up and down literally) and that went back, and extreme case but the errors are out there!

I hang my plumbulb from my white tail antlers down the other end my 8.6mtr long lounge.He dont mind and a plum bulb can only hang true plum from a thin peice of string.

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Originally Posted by earplay

This method @PaulNZ looks interesting - I'm not quite following how it works?

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The small vee on the long piece of the jig is placed on the barrel just in front of the scope objective - being a vee it self-centres. Loosen the lock nut and bring the larger vee down to contact the outside of the scope objective. Now your jig is located exactly on the line between barrel centre and the scope centre. This line is probably not true vertical (yet), so move the rifle on whatever rest or clamp you're using until the bubble is centred. Your scope/rifle assembly is now true vertical, so you can rotate the scope (without moving the rifle) until the crosshairs match another true vertical reference - like a plumb bob.

If your question is instead about bore sighting with a torch through the ocular lens, I'll leave @zimmer to explain that one further. Sounds like something I need to try though.

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Originally Posted by PaulNZ

The small vee on the long piece of the jig is placed on the barrel just in front of the scope objective - being a vee it self-centres. Loosen the lock nut and bring the larger vee down to contact the outside of the scope objective. Now your jig is located exactly on the line between barrel centre and the scope centre. This line is probably not true vertical (yet), so move the rifle on whatever rest or clamp you're using until the bubble is centred. Your scope/rifle assembly is now true vertical, so you can rotate the scope (without moving the rifle) until the crosshairs match another true vertical reference - like a plumb bob.

If your question is instead about bore sighting with a torch through the ocular lens, I'll leave @zimmer to explain that one further. Sounds like something I need to try though.

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Ok I think I get, cheers. Some great knowledge on the forum, and few new ideas try!