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Thread: Scope running out of elevation adjustment (Shooting too high)

  1. #1
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    Scope running out of elevation adjustment (Shooting too high)

    Hi team,

    I have a Weaver Grand Slam 3-12x42 with side focus.

    At first I could not hit an A4 paper at 25m, then I realised it was shooting way too high.
    After dialling the scope to the end of its elevation adjustment limit, I was still shooting about 25cm high at 25m.

    Tried setting it up on a CZ452 22LR as well as a T3X in 223, with different rings, both with the same result.

    Did a search on the forum and saw a few similar previous posts, which suggested swapping the front and rear rings around. I tried but it did not help.

    The only trick I can think of now is to shim the rear rings of the scope using a piece of coke can to drop down the point of impact. However some posts suggested doing so may damage the scope.

    So my questions are:

    - Will shimming using a coke can piece be too risky?

    - Should the shim be inserted between the scope tube and the ring? Or between the ring and the base?

    - Does wrapping the shim in some clothes to provide a softer contact area sound like a good idea?

    - Any other suggestions?

    Thank you very much!

  2. #2
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    You could try the burris rings with offsets? It will only be masking the problem however. I've only heard of this happening with windage due to misaligned scope mount holes. Never elevation

  3. #3
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    Wont shimming the rear ring make it shoot higher ?
    Clamp the rifle so it cant move and check that the elevation adjustment is working as a first step.
    ebf, zimmer and Ryan_Songhurst like this.

  4. #4
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    turn scope 90 degrees and see where its shooting....IF holes now appearing way out to one side scope tube is bent..... careful manipulation CAN fix this...so can warrenty claim.

  5. #5
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    Since you tested the scope on two other rifles with two other rings it sounds like a bent scope tube which you can test like MD said.

    Another way to test at home is to roll the scope along a desk. Get down to eye level and roll the scope along the flat top and if it's bent it will show as a slight rise and fall. If your adjustment turrents are too long, then place two pieces of "two-by-four" on the flat surface so when you roll the scope the turrents pass through the space in the middle.
    timattalon, Moa Hunter and dannyb like this.

  6. #6
    Member mopheadrob's Avatar
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    Hmmm, I'm having a similar problem (but not as pronounced). Didn't think of a bent tube. I'd hoped to solve it by switching from a 20MOA to 0MOA rail, but if it is bent, will that create other problems even if I can get it zeroed?

    Also, can a bent tube come out of a decent factory, or is it more likely to be a result of abuse? Mine is a secondhand Meopta, but looks as new.

  7. #7
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    screw your adjustment to centre or near to it and do the 90 degree turn thing...it will soon tell you....if you have rifle held firmly in something..even a box with groove in each end works,loosen rings and try it...nothing to loose really,other than recheck of zero afterwards.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synthetic View Post
    Hi team,

    I have a Weaver Grand Slam 3-12x42 with side focus.

    At first I could not hit an A4 paper at 25m, then I realised it was shooting way too high.
    After dialling the scope to the end of its elevation adjustment limit, I was still shooting about 25cm high at 25m.

    Tried setting it up on a CZ452 22LR as well as a T3X in 223, with different rings, both with the same result.

    Did a search on the forum and saw a few similar previous posts, which suggested swapping the front and rear rings around. I tried but it did not help.

    The only trick I can think of now is to shim the rear rings of the scope using a piece of coke can to drop down the point of impact. However some posts suggested doing so may damage the scope.

    So my questions are:

    - Will shimming using a coke can piece be too risky?

    - Should the shim be inserted between the scope tube and the ring? Or between the ring and the base?

    - Does wrapping the shim in some clothes to provide a softer contact area sound like a good idea?

    - Any other suggestions?

    Thank you very much!
    Greetings Synthetic,
    First a coke can is just not going to cut it. Based on a 125 mm ring spacing you will need a 1.25 mm shim to get the shots in the middle with adjustments bottomed out and likely 1.5 to 2.0 mm in practice. First however you might want to check that the adjustments are working properly. Using a large target with the aiming point at the bottom and at 25 metres wind the scope up and down and left to right firing a shot at each setting to see if the scope is doing what you tell it to. You might want to run the adjustments through their range first to distribute any lubricant in the mechanism. I gather this helps with scopes that have been idle for some time. After checking this and the other items above if you still want to shim it the shim should go between the scope base and the receiver ring at the front ring. You should never shim inside the rings. You will likely need longer ring screws.
    It might be easier to just replace the scope.
    Regards Grandpamac.

  9. #9
    Member Walker's Avatar
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    Sound like you need either a 15-20 moa rail or burris rings with the plastic off set inserts otherwise shimming one ring could bend your scope.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walker View Post
    Sound like you need either a 15-20 moa rail or burris rings with the plastic off set inserts otherwise shimming one ring could bend your scope.
    The rail will make the scope shoot even higher.
    Grandpamac.

  11. #11
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    There will be some problem with the Internals , check to see if you have the full range of adjustment . Is this a new scope to you , and how did it work previously ?. One option if you are not getting full adjustment would be to put the scope in a warm place , like the hot water cupboard for a few days and then in the sun /warmer place to hopefully loosen things up . As for a warranty/repair fix that will be interesting as Weaver are out of the scope business.
    Moa Hunter likes this.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tankd View Post
    There will be some problem with the Internals , check to see if you have the full range of adjustment . Is this a new scope to you , and how did it work previously ?. One option if you are not getting full adjustment would be to put the scope in a warm place , like the hot water cupboard for a few days and then in the sun /warmer place to hopefully loosen things up . As for a warranty/repair fix that will be interesting as Weaver are out of the scope business.
    Yes I bought it brand new.

  13. #13
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    Greetings Synthetic,
    Weaver still seem to be in business and still list the 3 - 12 Grand Slam. There is a warranty for the original owner so could be worth talking to where ever you bought it or Weaver. Might be worth trying Tankd's hot water cupboard and a few runs through a full range of adjustment before giving up hope.
    Grandpamac.

  14. #14
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    Something is wrong with the scope and/or ring setup if you tried it on three different rifles with the same results

    The other option is user error. Potentially dialing the wrong way, no offense, it happens.
    Moa Hunter likes this.

  15. #15
    Member zimmer's Avatar
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    As a matter of course I always "run in" any new scope. This is best done before fitting the scope. Sitting in front of some shit tv program is ideal.
    Running in involves winding the elevation and windage adjustments fully one way and fully the other a hand full of times. This distributes the grease nicely across the full travel of the threads.

    At the same time I check the extent of the adjustments against the manufacturer's specs. In the case of the GS 3-12X42 it would appear to be 60 MOA.
    This number I found by Google and assume it is correct. Weaver, bless their little souls, have removed all scope information from their website.

    Unfortunately the tv winding backwards and forwards and confirming 60 MOA doesn't guarantee the erector is moving that amount, if a fault is present.

    Finally I optically centre the scope by either winding 1/2 way between stops, or use the mirror method (Google). Usually, but not always they are optically centered from the factory.

    From there I mount the scope.

    In the OP's case, given his scope has +- 30 MOA to play with there is definitely an issue.
    Usually the elevation issue crops up the other way around ie can't get enough adjustment for 100 yds, with 22rf.

    One of those ones where eyeballing personally is easier but lots of good suggestions so far.

 

 

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