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Thread: Stock refinishing

  1. #1
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    Stock refinishing

    I have a Sako 75 wood stock here that has dried out and needs re-finished.

    Someone gave me a recipe for re-finishing it a long time ago and I have lost it. Thread is buried here somewhere.

    Hoping that someone is still about.

  2. #2
    I hunt, therefore I am.
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    Acetone to get ALL the old crap out. Toothbrush in the chequering. Chequering can be re-pointed fairly easily if you work slowly.

    Oil finish options from "tru-oil" (expensive and I don't know what's so great about it) tung oil, boiled linseed, sometimes cut with diesel/kero.
    The more thinner layers and harder rub you give it, the deeper and darker the finish will be. I'd apply to warm wood for a start, and the heat from your hands wil help too.

    The first few coats can be scuffed back with scotch pads or 0000 steel wool to fill in the grain, just make sure you don't leave any small steel fragments in there. At best they look bad, at worst they'll rust and bleed.
    Preacher likes this.
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  3. #3
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    Iíve used tru-oil on my stocks. Itís good for modern rifles when rubbed on and levelled out with fingers. I put x10 coats on my last stock. If too shiny, use a worn green pot scrubber to knock the gloss off, when product dry.
    mimms2 likes this.

  4. #4
    Forgotten but not gone
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    Tru-oil and elbow grease
    Be more involved and less impressed.

  5. #5
    Member dogmatix's Avatar
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    I have tru-oil, but actually prefer lots of layers of boiled linseed finished off with Danish oil.
    grunzter and mimms2 like this.
    Welcome to Sako club.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogmatix View Post
    I have tru-oil, but actually prefer lots of layers of boiled linseed finished off with Danish oil.
    That will be similar to what I want to do next time.
    Only use Danish oil though with maybe a touch of alkanet oil for some reddnes
    dogmatix likes this.

  7. #7
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    Danish oil. But as @mimms2 said. I personally prefer a fine scotch pad because it cannot leave behind anything that causes rust.

    I also like to soak the first couple coats on before scotch brite, assuming there isn't any contaminants in those coats. Then lots and lots of very thin coats, it sucks and takes time but feel it's worth it. Also be prepared for wankers.....ahhh tennis elbow. The more you rub it in fine layers the better.

    Damp the stock after cleaning and hit it with hairdryer or heat gun (careful with heat gun) and you will probably be surprised how much grain raises. Although hopefully not much with a Sako.

    Good time to steam out any little dents too. Tru Oil in barrel channel and butt/grip areas only for me. It works well but I prefer the hand rubbed with oil look on the body of the stock.
    mimms2 likes this.

  8. #8
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    tru oil then polish out with a nylon pad, then birchwood casey beeswax over the top. gives a nice satin finish and very easy to hold the rifle when its wet
    csmiffy likes this.

  9. #9
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    If you want to find a thread here go straight to google.

    I might go the basic route.

    But check out @Sideshow recipe.

    https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....54/index3.html

  10. #10
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    I'm taking a punt here.

    Some of these wooden stocks used to walk a bit with temp and humidity.

    This one is old now. The walnut is very settled and it's been in the cupboard, very dry, for years. No use.

    A big thing here is to seal the whole thing very tight so that core stays dry and stable. I think I will start with thin diluted tru-oil and try and get it to suck it in deep, then layer coats in, getting thicker as I go.

    Going to start with very very very fine sandpaper (after washing with solvents) and then go to the green pot scrubs mentioned and spend time rubbing it down while sitting about in the evening (not that I do this much).

    It's a nice piece of wood.

    I will get the checkering tidied up by Carlsen Highway.

  11. #11
    Member dogmatix's Avatar
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    I was going to suggest TJ, but Carlsen is certainly closer to you.
    Welcome to Sako club.

  12. #12
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    Should add, I meant Tru Oil under recoil pad/grip cap and barrel channel not on butt and grip.

  13. #13
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    Also @Tussock I be keen to see how it turns out if you feel like putting up pics when you done.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Preacher View Post
    Should add, I meant Tru Oil under recoil pad/grip cap and barrel channel not on butt and grip.
    Good point. This is what I mean by wanting the whole thing sealed.

 

 

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