SUP - MOD question

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14-06-2020, 09:36 PM
Sarvo

SUP - MOD question

Now don't laugh or flame me to much – but I not very good at these scientific things

Can a SUP be used on more than one rifle calibre?
I have 3 now

7m-08
7.62x39
243

If thread is same – is each SUP built for just that one rifle and or cal ??
14-06-2020, 09:38 PM
MSL

SUP - MOD question

If the suppressor has clearance for the largest cal, then yes
The bush at the rear needs to be suitable for all three barrels

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14-06-2020, 09:39 PM
Clint Ruin

243 through a 30 cal suppressor will be a little louder but works fine
14-06-2020, 09:41 PM
Sarvo

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSL

If the suppressor has clearance for the largest cal, then yes
The bush at the rear needs to be suitable for all three barrels

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bush - as in it needs to seat firm on exterior of barrel when fully screwwed on ??
14-06-2020, 09:42 PM
Sarvo

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clint Ruin

243 through a 30 cal suppressor will be a little louder but works fine

So - if my 243 SUP thread is same as one on a .22 - I could use it ???
14-06-2020, 10:14 PM
2post

I use my 30 cal on my 8mm, 284, and 6.5mm.
15-06-2020, 04:05 PM
Sarvo

Thread on .22 is totally diff to other 3 rifles with SUP's

Another Q for you experts
Would it be possible (well it is possible but more to the point will it work) to drill receiving hole or holes in a Weaver rail to match another non Weaver/Picatinny rail
I mean - drilling my self without a press or fancy cutter drills etc
I suppose if holes are not perfect mirror of other rail holes - the rail when screwed down may not be true ahead/level etc ??

Hope that all made sense
15-06-2020, 04:14 PM
Micky Duck

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sarvo

Bush - as in it needs to seat firm on exterior of barrel when fully screwwed on ??

correct,you can put a wrap of 2 of insulation tape on correct place of barrel to take up any slack...I can use my .30 calibre can on the .270 the .223 or indeed the .22lr but sure as shit cant use them the other way around...as long as thread is correct and hole in end is BIGGER than projectile all is good. interesting to read above someone using .30cal/7.62mm can with 8mm projectile.....it must be getting close....that said I cant see any difference between the .30 cal can and the .277/7mm one but arent game to swap them around.
15-06-2020, 04:16 PM
csmiffy

On the drilling part, if you can clamp them together as close as you can, (they will both have a straight edge to work off so very possible), drill and tap using completely new holes. Mount the first rail to the rifle and the second rail to the first.
The base of the second rail would want to match the first rail, (flat) or at least use some epoxy putty and make it match.
If you drilled the holes to try and match the originals, and they didn't, then you wouldn't be able to screw the first rail down at all.
You would get one in guaranteed, the rest not so much. @Micky Duck its up to 15 thou difference between 308 and 8mm. just over a quarter of a mil.
You would have to measure the bore on the moderator to check.
Less on one of them than the 270 vs 30 cal. That's 31 thou or 3/4 of a mil.
15-06-2020, 06:26 PM
2post

Quote:

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

correct,you can put a wrap of 2 of insulation tape on correct place of barrel to take up any slack...I can use my .30 calibre can on the .270 the .223 or indeed the .22lr but sure as shit cant use them the other way around...as long as thread is correct and hole in end is BIGGER than projectile all is good. interesting to read above someone using .30cal/7.62mm can with 8mm projectile.....it must be getting close....that said I cant see any difference between the .30 cal can and the .277/7mm one but arent game to swap them around.

Ah yes doesn’t sound right, I’m off to check now.
15-06-2020, 07:21 PM
2post

I just measured it 9.3mm.
16-06-2020, 10:07 PM
HandH

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mauser308

You possibly won't even notice much of a difference between a suppressor designed for a .243 to one designed for .308 all things being equal. You will still strip a large amount of the expanding gasses and restrict and slow the flow out the hole. A lot of cans are designed with a replaceable rear bush, it should be a few thou clearance on the barrel. Having a can touch on the rear bush during firing can have some oddball effects like working loose...

So do I understand you’re saying that the bushing should not touch the barrel? Or should it fit firmly i.e. finger tight when supp screwed on fully? If it’s not firmly contacting the barrel surely the small amount of barrel flex on firing would produce variable contact which would be counterproductive. Not sure if I’m explaining it adequately!!