Suppressor bushing

Silly question.
I have an unmarked over barrel suppressor. No idea who made it
1/2×28 thread (PITA).
Fully sealed, not able to be pulled apart.
It looks like it needs a bush between it and the barrel.
Are they similar in thread or maker specific?

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Originally Posted by csmiffy

Silly question.
I have an unmarked over barrel suppressor. No idea who made it
1/2×28 thread (PITA).
Fully sealed, not able to be pulled apart.
It looks like it needs a bush between it and the barrel.
Are they similar in thread or maker specific?

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Any gunsmith should be able to turn one up without much fuss

The hori in me says....why Needed?? If worried you could always do enough wraps of insulation tape around barrel to contact can....or try it without bushing. Pretty sure gunworks could sort it for you even though it's not one of thiers. Flick up photo ,someone will know.

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Originally Posted by dannyb

Any gunsmith should be able to turn one up without much fuss

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So can I as long as I there is some here.
Sometimes if it's cheap enough it's not worth my time.

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Originally Posted by Micky Duck

The hori in me says....why Needed?? If worried you could always do enough wraps of insulation tape around barrel to contact can....or try it without bushing. Pretty sure gunworks could sort it for you even though it's not one of thiers. Flick up photo ,someone will know.

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That would introduce some interesting harmonics....... I was taught that the bushing should never touch the barrel and have a little clearance. I am not convinced that your insulation tape method would be ideal for accuracy. I have never done that though so am always open to an easer way of doing things :)

i remove all my bushes....

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Originally Posted by inglishill

That would introduce some interesting harmonics....... I was taught that the bushing should never touch the barrel and have a little clearance. I am not convinced that your insulation tape method would be ideal for accuracy. I have never done that though so am always open to an easer way of doing things :)

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So go two turns less tape to give clearance. End of day the bushing is there to stop bending it you smack it on something,doesn't matter if the " bendy stoppy bit" is attached to can or barrel.will still do same job lol.

Yep pretty much. The bushing does a couple of things for ya apart from look pretty - it helps align the thread at the start of winding the thing on so the first turn doesn't get a hiding, minimises the bending forces in case it takes a knock, helps prevent metal on metal contact as you slide the thing over the barrel if you're concerned about looks or have a 'pretty' gun, and the last thing it does is close up the hole in the back of the can in case you are unfortunate enough to have a whoops and the inside of the can in the overbarrel gas chamber section decides to let go and dump all it's gas onto the barrel.

Other than that, you don't 'need' the bushing and some designs don't have it. As noted, it should not be tight enough that it contacts the barrel as most barrels are straight to the bore and not the outside of the barrel which means that if the bushing is contacting it will normally be tighter on one side of the barrel than the other which is less than ideal.

Interesting. Learned some stuff on this one

The 1/2×28 thread is standard, but the rear bush on over-barrel suppressors is usually maker-specific or custom-fit to your barrel’s outer diameter. If it's missing, you will need to have one made to ensure proper alignment and avoid baffle strikes.

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Originally Posted by Oursithe

The 1/2×28 thread is standard, but the rear bush on over-barrel suppressors is usually maker-specific or custom-fit to your barrel’s outer diameter. If it's missing, you will need to have one made to ensure proper alignment and avoid baffle strikes.

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Sorry but this is totally untrue, I do many barrel threads and it is not uncommon that a few inches back the bore is way of center to the outside of the barrel. A rear bush MUST be a good clearance on the the outside diameter of the barrel, a tight fitting rear bush could actually lead to baffle strike

Please ask the professionals if you want advice, not well meaning but uninformed ammeters if you need advice

Interesting as more than one professionally fitted suppressor I own touch barrel at bush....

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Originally Posted by Micky Duck

Interesting as more than one professionally fitted suppressor I own touch barrel at bush....

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Really easy to understand. If machine the bore is running eccentric to the outside diameter, you then get a tight bush to push the can over at the rear to the outside diameter… see how that also tips the bore of the can out of alignment with the bore of the barrel. Sure you might well be getting away with it but it is clearly not right

If you look at many can manufacturers they do actually specify a clearance on the rear bush

Fitted by manufacturer themselves in my case....if it wasn't touching it wouldn't have removed blueing or in case of Howa ,created shiney non buff ring at rear of suppressor...I shall try thin bit of paper to see if clearance at all...but highly doubtful there is any.

Have the same on the Grendal, just touching the carbon. Because of the barrel diameter, there’s not much more that can be machined off the bushing but when I get a chance to run some reloads through, I check to see if there’s any POI shift with and without the bushing. A good chance it doesn’t effect a stubby 12.5” much anyway.