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I have a Hardy Gen 3 suppressor on my T3. Just recently the it has become a little harder to screw on/off. Nothing nasty it just doesn't "spin" on and off now. I am guessing there may be some carbon build up in the thread or similar and was going to soak it in some sort of carbon remover. Apart from a commercial bore cleaner any suggestions?
It always helps to put a little copper grease on the threads when assembling.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shearer
GM top end engine cleaner
Dissolves carbon and what it doesn’t dissolve goes all soft
I’d also be tempted to put the suppressor in a sonic cleaner
How much does a dirty suppressor affect POI? I went to the range yesterday and my Savage 22 was all over the show (tried different ammo), I'm talking about a 2-3 inch variation off shooting bags @ 50m. Took the suppressor off and it tightened up. I gave the suppressor a clean with a nylon bore brush, only a little bit of crud seemed to come out.
Carburettor or throttle body cleaner works wonders for carbon, it evaporates well an leaves no residue as well.
After a clean, a light smear of lanokote makes it so much easier to keep clean
It cleans them up bright and shiney!Quote:
Originally Posted by 7mmsaum
Did that to an A-tec and all the anodizing came off. Made it very clean however.
.22s are bloody dirty shooters - and will fill up a suppressor with carbon and the wax they coat the projs in...Quote:
Originally Posted by vulcannz
Only aware of this as the suppressor I have allows me to unscrew the ends and see inside all the baffles allowing to clean them out - and there will be layers of the stuff inside them!! Can be tough to move too...
Best not to use copper anything with Aluminum they are not good bed mates.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fssprecision
Best to go with something more neutral like lanocote.
It does no harm when suspended in grease and cans are generally anodized, thus not direct contact with bare Al. The various brands of copper grease are specifically manufactured to as an anti-seize media.Quote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
Did exactly the same with my mates A tec ��Quote:
Originally Posted by norsk
Which method removed the anodizing ? The sonic cleaner or GM top end engine cleaner ?Quote:
Originally Posted by norsk
I have previously asked about boring suppressors out to suit bigger cals and was advised that it wasn't ideal as boring removes the hard anodizing which will shorten the life of the suppressor and allow it to erode faster ?
If that is the case I'd probably stick to using a carbon remover like CLR or any of the firearm specific carbon cleaners.
I'm with VC here on this. Regardless of copper being suspended in grease with some anti seize products, it still does not accompany aluminium well. Ask any marine maintenance person.Quote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
Go with a lanocote product around alloy.
One of my suppressors specifically says not to use copper grease.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathias
The best grease for the thread is a lithium one with as high a temperature rating as you can easily find.
Thread cleaning with a brush seems to be a must for my 22 suppressor. The grit that appears there is very hard. For me it works best to wipe with hoppes 9 and a patch plus a small bristly brush ( a double ended one the lttle end).
I once had a suppressor on a 22 and it shot well for 30 years then suddenly didnt. The aluminium threading must have got stretched and loose even when it felt tight. Arthur Cleland confidently said “Buy one of these” a new expensive MAE. He was right. It shot well again as soon as I screwed it on.
There was another thread on here asking about suppressors that turned into a bit of a "mines longer than yours" discussion and I commented about my dad's Oceania Defence which has been on a work rifle thats done over 20,000 rounds now (223)
I spoke with dad about it the other day as we had only discussed it in passing during conversation without actually delving much into the suppressor itself. He said he takes it off and puts the whole unit into a sonic cleaner (hornady setup used for brass etc also) once every few hundred rounds and it still performs like it did when it was new
Well as always we never stop learning, so it seems a copper based product is not ideal in this situation, good to know and learn from. To be honest I have been using it for many years and never noticed any problems and always been able to disassemble items after use. I have however had a good few items here dry and seized up.
Like I say we all have something to learn (those who want to listen)
Cheers
... and we learn from the voice of experience too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fssprecision