Technical suppressor questions for suppressor pros

If one was putting together a PRS type rifle and wanted it to be suppressed. Would you use an over barrel or muzzle forward?
My thinking is if you’re shooting 10+ shot strings, the over barrel will retain heat in the forward part of the barrel as the whole lot cools. When the next string is fired, the forward portion of the barrel under the suppressor would be warmer than the rear. Could this temperature difference result in accuracy detriment? Heat=expansion, so if one part of the barrel was hotter could it create an uneven bore diameter? I know I’m talking in almost immeasurable tolerances but I’d there any substance to the theory?
Muzzle forward should therefor isolate the residual heal forward of the bore, causing linear barrel expansion and contraction between strings?

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Originally Posted by Tuckerbox

If one was putting together a PRS type rifle and wanted it to be suppressed. Would you use an over barrel or muzzle forward?
My thinking is if you’re shooting 10+ shot strings, the over barrel will retain heat in the forward part of the barrel as the whole lot cools. When the next string is fired, the forward portion of the barrel under the suppressor would be warmer than the rear. Could this temperature difference result in accuracy detriment? Heat=expansion, so if one part of the barrel was hotter could it create an uneven bore diameter? I know I’m talking in almost immeasurable tolerances but I’d there any substance to the theory?
Muzzle forward should therefor isolate the residual heal forward of the bore, causing linear barrel expansion and contraction between strings?

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Your out clevering your self!
Just take your can of between stages.

Sent from my SM-A025F using Tapatalk

I have used muzzle over suppressors for years on multiple rifles for prs shoots. Your scenario has never been an issue for me. Around prs stages shortness is a real advantage. You would have to be an extraordinary shooter for uneven heating to be measurable at the target.

The difference in length between a well designed over-barrel can and a brake is minimal.

I think the bigger issue is mirage visible in your scope after a couple of quick shots when using a can.

Brakes are also significantly better at reducing recoil, so if you go that route you end up having more options in terms of free recoil positions,

The optimum combo at this stage seems to be a 6mm caliber, heavy chassis and a brake.

Cheers lads. Yeah currently running a greystone OB K4 on my 308 which amazingly doesn’t have mirage even after 10 or so shots. Going to avoid a brake due to where I shoot at home and also I tend the flinch when using a brake. The K4 won’t fit the diameter of the barrel I bought this was thinking DPT OB/muzzle forward or maybe Hardy’s. If greystone did a muzzle forward K baffle I’d buy it in a heart beat.

just send it, you'll have more accuracy causing issues from wind calls, misranging targets (happens more often than you think) & your consistency behind the rifle (A low recoiling platform is much more forgiving is this aspect)

Get a stainless steel MAE muzzle forward and dont worry about it. i have had one for a few years and even with long strings on my 6.5CM it is still going hard. they work great and can take a beating. you will shoot out a couple barrels before replacing it. they are heavy (500ish grams) but works great

but for PRS id use a brake

If youre only using it for target not hunting you might get away with muzzle forward.
The main problem is if you fall hard on a muzzle forward it might bend your muzzle or stretch thesuppresssor threads.
Suppression is said to correlatemost with the amount of can in front of the muzzle. The overbarrel part does contribute to noise control but its main benefit is leverage protecting it mechanically ( in my opinion).
Sorry, im not an expert. Look up their web site and give DPT ltd a call.