Thread: Tikka Stock change over to carbon. Torque setting question.

Hi team,

Running a Tikka T3X stock and about to change over to a ken hendo carbon fibre I got off here. Beautiful stock..

The current configuration is shooting well.

Can anybody advise me please on best practice on torque settings to keep the rifle
Printing the same poi, or is it just change them and see?

Do I just repeat the same torque settings as the current Tikka synthetic or do or is there a different
setting for this? Interested in people's set up and experience.

Thanks in advance.

Depends on your bottom metal. If it's the factory plastic I think tikka recommend 40 inch pounds. Mountain Tactical have a handy YouTube video you can check out

Has the CF stock been bedded ? Or have an internal ali bedding block ? In either case you should be able to apply more torque to action screws than a factory stock. Chances of retaining same POI are pretty slim but you’ll have to suck it & see.

Here it is. Has an Ali bedding block.

With ali bedding block the 45in/lbs is good target, you could go more but 40-45 in/lbs would be my target

I use 40 Inch pounds on My glacier carbon stocks with the alloy bedding block, I think that is about max with the plastic Tikka trigger guard but even after changing over to alloy bottom metal I have stuck with that torque an it seems to work well.

Originally Posted by GSP HUNTER

Hi team,

Running a Tikka T3X stock and about to change over to a ken hendo carbon fibre I got off here. Beautiful stock..

The current configuration is shooting well.

Can anybody advise me please on best practice on torque settings to keep the rifle
Printing the same poi, or is it just change them and see?

Do I just repeat the same torque settings as the current Tikka synthetic or do or is there a different
setting for this? Interested in people's set up and experience.

Thanks in advance.

Whatever you end up on, be sure to witness mark the bottom metal and screws so you can see if it has shifted. A metallic ink pen works well for this.

Also, I'd be careful using a 'prescribed' torque. Not all torque wrenches are calibrated and a 'wet' (oiled or loctited) screw will tighten more than an un-lubed one.

Furthermore, very few 'firearms' type torque wrenches are approaching something good or accurated. Wheeler FAT wrench is a bin-job Chinese item. Use Wera or Wiha.

Personally keep screws dry and use a L-shaped allen wrench for tightening all bolts on a rifle. For small screws (scope mounts), hold the short part of the 'L', for big screws, hold the longer side. Stops you from over tightening and possibly stripping the bolt head (despite what the shop or dealer will want to charge you, the screws are not expensive or high spec bolts! )

Thanks guys, I'll go 40. Appreciate your input.

Originally Posted by caberslash

Whatever you end up on, be sure to witness mark the bottom metal and screws so you can see if it has shifted. A metallic ink pen works well for this.

Also, I'd be careful using a 'prescribed' torque. Not all torque wrenches are calibrated and a 'wet' (oiled or loctited) screw will tighten more than an un-lubed one.

Furthermore, very few 'firearms' type torque wrenches are approaching something good or accurated. Wheeler FAT wrench is a bin-job Chinese item. Use Wera or Wiha.

Personally keep screws dry and use a L-shaped allen wrench for tightening all bolts on a rifle. For small screws (scope mounts), hold the short part of the 'L', for big screws, hold the longer side. Stops you from over tightening and possibly stripping the bolt head (despite what the shop or dealer will want to charge you, the screws are not expensive or high spec bolts! )

@caberslash how far out is the Fat wrench? I always thought mine was decent

I remember asking the late Ken Henderson this exact question. He did recommend 35in/lb.
Have been using this setting for some time with no issues.

Originally Posted by 308mate

@caberslash how far out is the Fat wrench? I always thought mine was decent

No way to tell... yours could be accurate. However, having a tool that goes from 10-65 inch/lbs is quite the range.

The 'premier' brands do smaller ranges of torque, or just have a ceiling like these

@caberslash did you get these from impact sports or is there another supplier?

Have never ever once used a torque wrench to put a rifle in a stock (or for scope rings/bases for that matter) just do things up snug and a bit, and a wee bit more on front action screws, and never had an issue with a rifle that wouldn't shoot due to torque settings. Take my rifles out of their stocks quite often and I believe poi shift is a myth blamed on torque specs also

Originally Posted by 308mate

@caberslash how far out is the Fat wrench? I always thought mine was decent

Yea I've had no issues with mine. 40pound is what I would do on Tikka stocks with alloy floorplate etc.

I’ve used the Ryan S method with stocks of all materials inc CF and “snug” works fine. Dont over thing it and feel that you have to use a torque wrench.


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