Ok. So I’m sick of the lowa spray then the leather cream, so expensive if you do this after every outing in the wet.
Keen to know what’s a better product to use if there is one? Cheers
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Ok. So I’m sick of the lowa spray then the leather cream, so expensive if you do this after every outing in the wet.
Keen to know what’s a better product to use if there is one? Cheers
The sun:P
Sorry @dale couldn't help myself. But I'm sure someone will come along. I wonder about good old fashioned dubin?
Salomon boots,great product.no oil or cream needed and dry super quick,also light even when wet.
I use Hanwags (spelling) it's what was recommended to me by another person who has Lowa boots I personally don't have Lowas and assume the boots are no longer covered by warranty if your happy to use any product in them.
I've jsust finished my Lowa cream and have started using Hubberds product. I'll use my boots this weekend so will have an idea after that.
+1 for Huberts on all my boots.
Get it from Footwear and Apparel in Upper Hutt, Whakitiki St
Keen to here how you get onQuote:
Originally Posted by stug
Yip me too on the Huberds shoe grease, wear my boots daily in the job, scrub barring, wind throw runs and general track work. my boots have yet to crack or anything, and they spend plenty of time walking in the wet and i am yet to get wet feet apart from river crossings....dry feet happy worker.
All my boots are suede type leather(Meindl air stream, Andrews chainsaw) so they suck up the oil well not sure how this stuff would go with the shinier leather type of boots.
Good luck.
Huberds grease mate.Been using it on lowas for few years,brilliant.
Another [emoji106] for Heberds shoe grease.
I will try and find out about a product used extensively in Europe winters called "Snow Seal"
I imagine it be good as a water repellent too
I run a basic bees wax on mine and find it works mint
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@Sarvo snow seal has been sold in NZ for over 20years. Used it for quite a while. Pretty good, but that was before Goretex lined boots were common.
I used a product called Effax Balsam on my Meindls, but I reckon it reduced the breathability of the boots.
I have got onto this stuff from the local farmstore, I reckon it's a bit of alright
Skellerup Earthtec Boot Wax
You dairy boys are hard out mate ya dont need that on your gumbootsQuote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst
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SnoSeal is a good product for improving the the softness/wearability of leather boots, but it needs reapplying after every trip to be worthwhile for water proofing.
I’m considering starting a new pair of boots on SnoSeal, to break them in and fit my feet, then investigate another product (Hubert’s??) as a longer term treatment.
If you render down Deer Fat in a tin can over a primus,its as good as anything else.
I was put onto this when I worked in BC 20 years ago.Its best to do it outside and any other fat might be just as good I dont know.
Hubards shoe grease is good,all anything does is block the pores in the leather.
Another thing is to treat your boots when they are completely dry.Take the inner soles out,set your oven to 60 deg C,chuck your dry boots in and keep them in there untill it reaches 60deg.Whip them out,coat liberally with your leather treatment of choice,chuck them back in and turn off the oven.leave untill morning
Warming the boots opens the leather pores and pushes out any old leather treatment,the pores close again full of treatment and away you go.
I’ve had a good yarn to the lowa rep. They don’t really mind what product you use as long as it’s not natural based (beeswax,animal fat, snoseal etc) as it supposedly eats the adhesives in the boots. Think rand separations. I use the meindl boot wax and the lowa cream.
I use sno seal and its crap . One light north island hunt and your boots need another coat. Even my slip on's for work after a triple coating doesn't seem to last. Will be keeping a close eye on this threat.
Any kind of wax or grease or silicone spray will reduce goretex breathability, so not great for new Goretex type products.
But put onto old leaky Goretex these products can make it waterproof again, but with loss of breathability. I'd go for waterproof any day, and once the boots are waterproof you can keep the moisture away from the insulating sock and boot lining with a vapour barrier system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ANjQEuekmE
Bread bags do OK.
In my experience wax products are crap at softening leather. Dubbin is better for that and as long as things are dry less heating tricks are required because it's already half melted.
WD40
@PaddyQuote:
Originally Posted by Paddy79
I suppose it will penetrate better than Dubbin, and it will resist cracking better than wax (here I think is the reason Dubbin seems to waterproof better than wax).
But are you kidding? I mean, even humans will be able to smell you coming from upwind!
My boss just goes into our work shop and gets what ever oil he can find and pours it on his boots over winter
it works I use it just don't hunt with the wind up your arse an youll be sweetQuote:
Originally Posted by Cordite
Dubbin suddenly no longer seems messy...Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbear
Are you really suppose to put stuff on them other than chain bar oil??I take them out of the box wear them almost every day for 12-14 months and then repeat the process.They still keep the water out unless it goes over the top.
@Markgibsonr25Quote:
Originally Posted by Markgibsonr25
In fairness, you could use vaseline too, great for covering guns too and does not smell. Problem is some modern boots seem to have non-stitched seals/seams that may come apart when used with solvents - which includes most petroleum products.
I used to believe / be told that polish etc was to "protect" the leather, even "feed" it. Why feed something dead? Well, I was finally convinced when I saw a Kriegsmarine Stiefel lying on the seabed in the vicinity of the Bismarck. Properly tannerised leather does not rot, does not get eaten at any significant rate. The products are just for shine, pliability and waterproofing.
Here are some leather products from 1912:
Attachment 89013
You may need to take into account the depth of the bismarck and what lives at those depths to eat leather.Try diving the Prince of wales and a few others in that area before the Chinese took them all and at that depth there was only the soles and a few bones left.The shrimp would eat all the dead skin off your face during deco.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cordite
Just purchased some german army boots by Meindl from army and outdoors surplus. I cleaned them and applied the huberts boot grease. Then I read meindl nz site that they recommend ONLY their sport wax for their boots, something too do with goretex liner and breathability. So ordered some of their product. Yet to test these boots.
[QUOTE=BRADS;713562]You dairy boys are hard out mate ya dont need that on your gumboots
Aye, maybe its not for his boots ?? :wtfsmilie:
Ran out of Huberds, and the mrs says try some of my fancy riding boot leather conditioner. We might think hunting and outdoors shit is expensive ... fark nothing on the horsey european boots and shite. So this fancy boot goo from Germany should be a bit of alright. Read the fine print on the back .... main component "used train oil". Go figure.
Well I've been on the hunt, didn't get wet foot so can't comment on waterproofness of the Hubberds. My socks were slightly damper than I would have expected so breathability might have been reduced a little bit, but not enough to cause concern.
This is what I only use now....
https://ezdirect.nz/index.php?route=...facturer_id=13
Plus the fella from EZ Direct looks after us as well.
Here's a post from EZDIRECT on another site regarding leather care...
If you fill the leather with oil
How will it breathe?...what is the point of buying Gore-tex lined boot then?
How do you expect adhesives to adhere to oil filed leather?
How will your boots dry out if the moisture inside can't get out due to over oiled leather?
We proudly supply the German Armed Forces conditioner in NZ. Its actually halfway between a cream and a grease. So needs less application rate than creams.
It doesn't over supply the leather with oil unless excessively used. And the leather can work. Doing its part which is not just water proofing but breathing.
Use dubbin and other high oil% product over the entire boot and wonder why the inside is damp and boot slow to dry out. This is due to a layer of oil blocking the breathability. There are cheaper Bullers etc though. Without the need of creating your own.
Haix Bestard Lowa..even Scarpa...
http://www.scarpa.co.uk/technical/boot-care/
lots of others all recommend creams not greases like dubbin because of this.
There is logic to this. In NZ we have wet weather...
If you have trouble applying enough for flexy bits..these act like sponges when squeezed when wet so loose conditioners from these spots due to this. Apply some..macadamia, olive or advocado oil from the house by finger..only to creasy looking flexing bits.
Now solvents do you think these are good for adhesives. They use solvents to remove adhesive.
Do you think solvents are good for leather. No they harden leather by removing conditioners and hardening the fibres. Making them more brittle
Wax. Don't melt it, it absorbs into the leather when liquid also reducing breathability and the leathers ability to absorb conditioners in future.
Anyone had hard boots after storage? probably a combination of this and the solvents.
Most manufacturers advise using zero solvent creams.
Some products are high in solvents to get the wax soft to spread..you can smell them..If high in odour of evaporating solvents its a good indication how much is in the product.
Solvents, oils and waxes work best when applied correctly in the right amounts for the right place.
Don't over or under do it.
If you are using Sno-seal the secret to using it ,is to give the boots a buff after you have allowed it to soak in . And just good old direct sunlight is warm enough .
