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Thread: 2nd hand bike advice

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delphus View Post
    Yep I’m doing a learn to ride course this weekend(as I am a complete beginner), then will do the test course after that to get the tick.
    Once I get my learners and a bike I’ll do the ride forever courses. My wife is mostly on board, but any more training I can get will be endorsed by her
    Offer to spring for the same courses for your wife. Get her to do the basics with you. You may need to share the first bike but once you have your full, it would bgive you a better chance at getting two different styles...Also if she decides riding is not for her, she may decide pillion is fun and having done the basics with you, she will have a greater understanding of the dynamics.

    I know a lot of people will say riding is 'you ' time but taking the other half away for a weekend somewhere on the bike is also well worth it.
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  2. #32
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    I commute 66km per day on a motorway everyday, a good proportion of it lane splitting.

    Firstly, in my opinion the motorway is the easiest place to ride, and one of the safer areas, everything is moving in the same direction, no driveways or side streets to be wary of. I have a motorcross background but ride bikes on the road purely for transport, there's not a lot of cross over in technique, I'll be selling it as soon as I change jobs.

    I ride a 2015 CB500X, it's brilliant for commuting. They're advertised as an adventure bike but they're very much road orientated. It's LAMS approved, has ABS and has a good upright sitting position which is best on the motorway as you can see over the cars. It's cheap to run, I get 400km out of a $35 tank of fuel. The pre 2018 models have the more road oriented 17in front wheel. The motor has plenty of power for commuting and sits at 100km/h easily enough, they're absolutely bulletproof and they will do 400,000+kms. The only downside of the bike is it's so vanilla to ride, it really is boring.

    Overall running cost wise there's not a lot of difference between a bike and a small car, the tyres are expensive and there's other stuff like chain/sprockets, rego etc that need changing, but they're very easy to service and work on yourself. The bonus for me is the predictability of commute times, if the motorway is completely clogged it only adds about 3 minutes to my 25min commute, but I lane split at a reasonable pace.

    Heated grips are gold, along with those ugly rear luggage boxes. You can get high quality riding gear really cheap secondhand on TM, I recommend this especially if you're not sure how committed you are. You don't need loud exhausts either.

    The Honda NC700/750 is probably what I will get next, just a bit more power and DCT, also has a luggage area where the fuel tank normally is. Same fuel economy as the 500X too.

    Something like this, but if you're patient you can get them a bit cheaper.
    https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/m...3?bof=cuCca0S2
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  3. #33
    Member Shearer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAKED_GOOSE View Post
    I'd second shearer's advice on the trail/adv style, but also check out supermotos, basically a dirt bike on 17" street tires so they handle better than the 18/21 setup you'd likely find on a trail bike,

    the more reliable supermoto would be the drz400sm, pretty solid bikes, little on the heavier side of things at 140kg or so, not bad in the scheme of things, this would suit someone inexperienced quite well,
    If you want the quickest bike that learner legal look towards the ktm EXC line, the older RFS ktms are pretty solid engines but you will be changing the oil every 1000km, as they only hold around 1L, the later 2008/2009 models had some bad crank bearings and a seperate engine oil and transmission oil which lead to a few failures,
    but the ktm 525 exc is 50hp or so and 110kg, and the 450 EXC is about the same just less low end so well over the learner limit of 150kw per tonne, but its on their list so you're all good there

    Id avoid 2000's era huskies, had a couple of them and parts are a real pain in the ass until the KTM take over, in which case they're just a white KTM, same with husaberg.

    KTM did technically go under recently, although I believe they were brought out but the Indian manufacturer they were partnered with for the 390, 200 and 125 platforms, I wouldn't recommend the ktm road bikes aside from the 690/701 platform and the older 950/990 as other than those two engine platforms they aren't the most reliable, all of their offroad bikes are pretty solid though,

    Royal Enfield bikes are okay, some quality issues like chrome rusting easily but nothing too major considering they're generally quite cheap compared to triumph, the continental/GT 650 is lams approved but is more of a retro style, heavier too but that's unlikely to be much of an issue,

    in saying all that, if I had to recommend one bike for someone taller it would be the DRZ400 S or SM model, has enough power for most needs but isn't so much that it would be an issue for someone inexperienced

    not sure if you've come across this before but NZTA has the list of all the approved bikes under 650cc, anything under 250cc is approved by default apart from the race replica two strokes

    you can get bikes added to the list if you come across one that should be on it, IE the I got the RD350lc put on the list as its just under 150kw per tonne, just had to send proof of power to weight ratio to NZTA.

    https://www.nzta.govt.nz/driver-lice...d-motorcycles/


    and to touch on helmets, you want something thats rated ECE22.06, best you can get currently, there will still be some ECE 22.05 helmets floating around so make sure to check.
    Make sure it fits well and get a full face
    IMO make sure you get a double D ring style fastener as I've got a euro style ratchet and it sucks.
    Hahahaha. I just had a look through that list. It includes the Yamaha IT 490!!! That's got to be a mistake. That bike was a beast.
    outlander, XR500 and NAKED_GOOSE like this.
    Experience. What you get just after you needed it.

  4. #34
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    IT 490 yes toss ya off backwoods like a mad mustang on speed - had a beach race on one what a bloody handfull
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  5. #35
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    Very little wear on the front wheel of those beasts....cause it was always in the air

  6. #36
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    few in that era were handfulls the kwacka 500 and 750 two strokes were not nice but now command a good price - I had a Titan 500 Suzuki okay but handled like a brick out house - the RD 350 and later 400 were little pocket rockets - but the Kawasaki 1400 was just dangerous - brothers 650 Bonneville was a stand out first of the 5 speed 71 from memory - mates had Commandos still do some of them- nice but unreliable - worst 350 Ducati enduro ran cranks regularly - absolutely an abomination the 750 Yamaha triple from early seventies - used to suck oil from crank back into gearbox and blow motors regularly - the 650 Yamaha really good if you enjoyed tank slappers -love one the BSA Rocket three
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  7. #37
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    After 60 years of motorcycle riding I can suggest only one bike, the Suzuki drz400e, if you want commuting and fun as well. Nothing else comes near it.
    Shearer, m101a1 and Deanohit like this.

  8. #38
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    Another vote for the DRZ400E, a mild mannered weapon of a bike.
    Mine commuted daily and on weekends took me all over the country, including a couple epic 4-6 week trips of thousands of kms.
    I added a lot of comfort with a decent seat, heated grips, soft luggage, small screen and big fuel tanks.

    I'm keen to try one of the CB500Xs, they look like they'd be a pleasant mile muncher

  9. #39
    Member Max Headroom's Avatar
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    Hi Delphus. something to consider:

    Whatever you own, at some stage will fall over, or get stuck in a rut or a ditch. Even if you try your hardest to avoid it. (I have been blown sideways across the road and into a ditch by a sudden gust of wind.)

    So, you gotta be physically strong enough to pick your bike up. It's not all in muscle power of course, but upper body strength is a must have.
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    If you don't learn to transform your pain, you will transmit it.- Richard Rohr

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max Headroom View Post
    Hi Delphus. something to consider:

    Whatever you own, at some stage will fall over, or get stuck in a rut or a ditch. Even if you try your hardest to avoid it. (I have been blown sideways across the road and into a ditch by a sudden gust of wind.)

    So, you gotta be physically strong enough to pick your bike up. It's not all in muscle power of course, but upper body strength is a must have.
    Have a look at "doodle on a bike" on you tube. She is a smaller rider on big bikes. Picking them up is some strength but technique helps a lot.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvcyakCkKTg
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZMURbcqsYI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7FH25rECvI

    On this point, your fiest bike will probably not be your 'forever' bike. So whatever you get, I would suggest that it fills some requirements like
    - cheap enough to not hurt if it is unsellable at the end
    - robust so it doesnt break lots of expensive / pretty bits if you fall over
    - holds value well if you go to resell it when you decide what you really want later.

    As mentioned, the DR range on road tyres, (or any similar bike) would be good but they ususally miss the first cheap requirement - but not always.
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  11. #41
    Member Savage1's Avatar
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    If you don't ride off road then don't bother getting a DR type bike, stick with a road oriented bike as they have better handling/brakes etc for the road.

    I rode a DR650 for a while on the motorways, the controls, headlight, brakes, vibration etc make them less comfortable. No ABS, average brakes, smaller fuel tank etc etc.
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  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max Headroom View Post
    Hi Delphus. something to consider:

    Whatever you own, at some stage will fall over, or get stuck in a rut or a ditch. Even if you try your hardest to avoid it. (I have been blown sideways across the road and into a ditch by a sudden gust of wind.)

    So, you gotta be physically strong enough to pick your bike up. It's not all in muscle power of course, but upper body strength is a must have.
    Lay down,have bike layed over on-top of your leg by a couple of strong people.if you cannot get out from under it....best find something lighter lol.
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  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    Lay down,have bike layed over on-top of your leg by a couple of strong people.if you cannot get out from under it....best find something lighter lol.
    Good advice.
    If you don't learn to transform your pain, you will transmit it.- Richard Rohr

  14. #44
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    Well I ended up with a RE Himalayan 450. A year old and 7K on the clock. I spent a bit more, but I wanted to start with something reliable that was still in warranty should anything go wrong. I very happy with it so far! Should last me a good few years before I feel the need to upgrade (I hope!)

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  15. #45
    Member Max Headroom's Avatar
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    Well done.
    Just in case nobody's included this bit of advice:
    Keep your headlight on while you're riding, regardless of whether it's day or night. A bike is a small target for a distracted driver to pick up. Being lit helps.
    Micky Duck likes this.
    If you don't learn to transform your pain, you will transmit it.- Richard Rohr

 

 

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