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Hey Guys!
I’m looking at getting a bike and would be great full for some advice,
I’m thinking ag200, Kawasaki stockman or dr200
I’d like to be able to take a passenger and also be able to strap one or two goats to it also.
And would be hoping to use it in the Aorangis, Akatarawas and Tararuas
So that kind of terrain
Also what kms would be considered too high if I’m buying second hand?
Would love to know what you guys think and if you could help point me in the right direction
Cheers 👍
Using a DR200 would be my pick. I use one for work every day.
Stockman didn’t fit right.
The Honda bushlander? felt like a pig.
Can’t comment on the Kawka.
It is much easier to carry loads with a ATV/quad though.
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Your bike requirements only look acheivable using the mighty.....XR500:thumbs:
But seriously: as has been said bike condition is key to not buying a dog.
Your needs would be hard to fill in one bike. Rider ability also needs to score high to attain the desired bike capability. Riding 2 up is hard on bike and rider, whatever the horsepower. And all the bikes described are not generous in hp.
The country you describe is steep and rocky. You will need to gear the bike down low to make what hp it makes, more useable.
A 4 stroke can be good in that terrain, but I now find myself much in favour of a modern 2T when hitting the steep gnarly stuff carrying a load. I have a Suzuki mudbug 185 that served me well for 25 years, hauling me in and deer out of the hills, but they are hard to come by these days, and require a fair bit of an upgrade to make reliable if they have been abused by a previous owner. Mine is 43 years old, never had the engine opened, same cdi, same reed valves etc etc as new in Dec 1978.
But the hp is key. Mudbugs have 12 of them when brand new. Medium sized XR's/DR's KL's 16-20ish. Modern 2T's have 45 ish hp. Makes for effortless riding in steep terrain with a 25kg pack on your back in comparison. (Thats effortless for the bike, not the rider I hasten to add)
For someone with modest 2 wheeler skills, a quad for the big jobs, and a 100-125 2 wheeler for solo access to difficult terrain may be a better option. Those small 2T bike are 10-15ish kgs lighter than the bigger 4 strokes. And thats an awful lot lighter when climbing out from under a failed hill ascent, or dragging it out of a gully:thumbsup:
Goatcommander.
Awesome handle.
Thanks heaps guys!
I actually haven’t learnt to ride a bike myself yet so I’m a wee minute from taking passengers anyway but it’d be good to have the option in the future,
How is the Honda ctx200 vs dr200?
Ctx are absolute dogs extremely heavy in the front end and you fight the bike the entire time in rough terrain , the engine is XR200-ish but I have a feeling it's a cheap Honda badged copy as when we ran them years ago they shit themselves regularly, major component failures ie; bottom end bearings despite regular maintenance. DR is a much better bike, better suspension, better brakes, nice useable power, they're just one of those timeless "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" machines that just works. We have four of the new XR190 on farm and four of the XR150L and I must admit I'm quite impressed with the 190 as a utility bike, good suspension, point well and feel lighter than they actually are and injection is nice, no fluffing about with chokes or loss of power at higher altitudes etc, it's all "more to go wrong" though. Headlight on the DR is awesome, despite being a honda-slut I have to hand it to the DR it's a good machine.Quote:
Originally Posted by goatcommander
If you haven't learnt to ride a bike yet remember its gonna be dropped a heap of times. So bark busters (handle bar protectors) are a definate must have. And lighter is best. Possibly a mudbug 125 or an Ag100 (1-2K) for a year or so before dropping bigger coin on a more capable bike. Learn how to lube the clutch cable regularly (dinky little applicator that clamps to the cable and lets you squirt canned lube down it). The clutch is the biggest controller of the bike. Learn to ride with a finger on it, so when the other hand loses its control, and you whiskey throttle it (right hand grabs the throttle and goes to maximum warp speed), the other hand pulls the clutch in to stop the bike racing off out of control.
Oh, and if you haven't learnt to ride yet.....plenty of videos please:D:D:D
Sounds like you aren't after a bike for actual farm use, so I wouldn't limit yourself to farm bikes.
Without at doubt I'd go for a CRF 230.
Way lighter than a farm bike, more importantly not as top heavy, more power than a farm bike, and better brakes and suspension.
Also has advantages over bikes (like XR250, DRZ250 etc), in that also not as heavy and the seat height is a little lower (believe can also be lowered in the rear suspension linkage??).
Only disadvantage is the CRF 230 doesn't have a kick start, if that really bothers you then I'd look in the Kawasaki KLX range of bikes.
Just remembered there is the TTR230 also, no experience with it, from memory the Honda should be the better bike but the TTR will be better than the farm bikes mentioned.
The first real bike I had was a DRZ250, for the most part it was a good bike but bloody hell was it heavy and very top heavy. A DR200 would make a better farm bike and hunting bike but they are pretty gutless and the suspension is crap for anything other than slow ridding (hunting/farm use is fine) the CRF 230 is one of the few bikes that sits in the middle and does a good job.
Any other bike you'll start to get something you need to be a lot stricker on maintenance and will be more expensive to run, you'll be able to get way more power and way lighter (if you go 2 stroke) but son't think it' worth it for your use.
Kawasaki Stockman
I had the 250 - amazing bike
Scabbard laced onto front forks
Used it to travel 17ks into base camp in Pureora before I went Quad
Still used it after that too
Gearing perfect
Power heaps if needed
No - exc bush/farm hack
+1 as beetroot says crf230 or ttr230 you would need to spend at least 3k to get a decent one. Trying to double someone especially with gear as well would be a shit show
Now my 5 cents worth . The Honda xr190 is a popular machine for farm type duties and seem to have minimal issues ( if looked after- like any machine) and if considering buying new come with a free farm kit that includes lower gearing , handle bar protection and racks .
Bare in mind I work for Honda though .... so could be considered biased but have sold tons of them and rarely see them back in w/shop for problem fixing .
Yep, what I thought too....!!Quote:
Originally Posted by 40mm
I used to get myself and my girlfriend around OK on a Honda XL250, so he and his nanny should be fine on something similar? :innocent:
I had a Suzuki DR200SE Trojan from new, the 200cc engine was plenty enough for me on the HB hills. Am only 68kg so wanted a light bike. Bought it just before I moved from dairy to bull farming and pest control. Would have kept it but had to upgrade to something with more seats so my little one could come with me to work.
Photos are pre ban.
Attachment 177958Attachment 177959
Also the head lights were bloody good compared to my older xr. Really handy if you want to look for new born calfs in the dark at 2am. :D
Mini 14sQuote:
Originally Posted by mimms2
I have used all the bikes you are talking about
Stockman too heavy, DR200 best light and reliable but heavy and gutless for 2, ag200 most comfortable and best farm bike but heavy, honda 190 no kick start backup
, I'd personally go for a crf230 with an up graded headlight, super reliable, light with plenty of poke.
I agree also having used all bikes mentioned and riding a crf everydayQuote:
Originally Posted by von tempsky fan
While not all that dissimilar in weight the crf carries the weight at a much better balance point, actually has brakes and suspension something most mentioned are lacking.
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I've got the same model DR as Boarfreak. Goes pretty well, and seems very low geared in 1st. Wouldn't want to be 2 up and with a deer on it though.
Yup, I've ridden this CRF230, hugely impressed.Quote:
Originally Posted by BRADS
I used to farm, if looking for a cheap bike get a TF125 or a AG200, The TFs are bullet proof and take a hell of a thrashing, the AG200 is a good slow cruiser but the 5-up gear box drives me nuts and the non-electric start model only has a 19in front wheel and handles like a dog.
I also used to race MX so know what a good bike handles like, the CRF230 is on a whole other level from DR, TF, AG etc.
Those crf230 are a tough bike, i got bucked off one start of this year and come of second best:ouch...it hurts:still not bad to %100
I really rate the 230 and even the crf150f but the 150 does lack a bit of power but lower to the ground. Good bike for crawling up a goat track.
Wow guys thanks a lot, such plethora of knowledge!
Hey Boar freak I love the photos that my life goals right there!! Cheers!
Rugerman is that a Doberman you have?
I have a Doberman pup also he’s 6months, coming along nicely 👍
Guys I think I’m going to go for the dr200 to be honest.
I only have a budget of 3k max and the dr200 can fit that nicely,
I’ll make sure I get some photos up for you guys once I get it.
Cheers !!
Good choice for the money I think :)
Good news ya Dobbie pup is coming along good. Na the young girl in my avatar is a Rottie.
Have done 2 up with a reasonable size hind on a CT110.
Pretty much at its limit.
Have had a few, gave last one away years ago to friends that went sharemilking.
They are good but reckon they are too expensive for what you get secondhand now.
The new CT125 Hunter would be good but at nearly $8 nah I dont think so Suzuki DR better value for the dollar.
Interesting thread. Are there any substitutes for a dedicated bike trailer? I have seen some people using some sort of bike rack that clamps to a towbar but they don't look particularly strong ...
I started carting my mudbug around on a piece of 12 x 4 timber with a 50mm hole drilled in it, so it sat over the towball on my ....Skoda. Tie down strops went down as well as forwrd to the air grills. It worked. of a sort.
But did tire of carting a whole trailer about just for a 100kg bike, so built this. Sticks out less than 50mm both sides of the car, and the bike is held down by one strop. Never moves. High enough to keep on when 4wding modest tracks to a hut before going hunting.
Attachment 178153
Its about 45 seconds from rocking up at the car, to driving away.
Think i posted this before but anyhoo,.. this is for hauling my ct90, made mostly from angle. a box weld either side of tow bar and carrier slides in and held in place with a pin in each side. made up a bracket that goes from wheel carrier and clamps around down tube on bike. i have to take plastic cover off down tube on bike first. I didn,t fancy the carriers that just have the center on the hitch as they let the bike flop and flex to much.Attachment 178156 the two white lines are where i am going to put braces to stiffen the front tie down and slot in the front wheel. Also need to make up a ramp as only used a bit of board.
Knew I had a pic somewhere:
Attachment 178166
Modern tow hitches where the tongue slots into a reciever can slop around an awful lot. And yes, a mate has one and its pretty flimsy. Mine U bolts around a pretty strong tow hitch, where I have inch and a half RHS welded to a plate that makes for two receivers, one for the front wheel and one for the rear. Spare tyre comes off the rear door holder and gets strapped down inside. A 4 inch wetsuit foam packer bolts on where the spare wheel was, allowing a single strop to pull the bike down and backwards onto the packer. Fold away ramp allows the front wheel to ride up into its angled slot. Bike is left in gear so the rear wheel doesn't turn when you left it up into its slot. When I can't lift the bike up onto its holder I'll stop riding. Its a necessary skill where I ride. You can get stuck in some horrible spots, and lifting can be the only solution.
