Just wondered if anyones tried fitting egr blanking plates to their Tritons. Mines an MN 2014 . Any issues?. Seems easy enough. I see them available on the internet etc.Cheers.
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Just wondered if anyones tried fitting egr blanking plates to their Tritons. Mines an MN 2014 . Any issues?. Seems easy enough. I see them available on the internet etc.Cheers.
we have a 2010, easier to turn it off electronically as we did on ours. i havent built a egr turnoff for a 2.4 triton yet though.
basically you confuse the ecu that its super cold outside and the egr turns off. in the meantime i suggest you buy a bottle of "royal" egr cleaner from partsmaster in chch and blow the crap out of the inlet manifold/egr. best $25 you will spend on it.
just for all thats holy do it outside !!!!!
Back it into a mate's workshop at lunchtime and do it ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by gonetropo
@veitnamcam got a cable mod for his triton, i got the same (cant recall where from) definite increase in throttle response and fueo savings
i make them, but havent had my hands on a 2.4l one yet to work out how to do it. the 2.5 is easy as Attachment 142242Quote:
Originally Posted by 223nut
Haven't taken much notice of one but the plates are easy enough to make just use a piece of panel steel and copy the gasket without the hole in the middle
blank plates can sometimes bring up the engine warning light though.pays to have a very small 2-3mm hole in it
Isn’t the whole EGR problem best approached by fitting an oil catch can to the crankcase gas recirculation?
egr is exhaust gas reticulation. when the motor is under light load a bloody great solenoid activates and feeds exhaust gas back to the intake manifold. on our triton the inside of the manifold had about 8mm of tar thru it causing the engine to go into limp mode. i had to remove the manifold and egr system and clean it all out which was allot of work plus new gaskets. (and allot of swearing)
Yes, but the source of the tar is not from the recirculated exhaust gas, it’s from the recirculated crankcase gases that contain a fine mist of oil which meets the EGR in the intake manifold. On contact with the superheated exhaust gas, the crankcase oil forms the crust that blocks the intake manifold.
Take the oil out of the equation, problem (largely) solved.
That’s always been my understanding, but I admit it is very specific to Toyotas and not other makes, however I believe the logic is fairly generic.
One thing I do know is that the 150 Hilux fleet on a mine site that I worked on for a few years had lots of problems with blocked EGR valves on 2-3 yr old vehicles. These vehicles basically run all day, most of the time stationary with the Aircon switched to max. So the amount of kilometres travelled versus engine operating hours is actually very low but the engines take a hiding from bad fuel and constantly idling. When the gold price crashed in 2013 the replacement plan for these vehicles was updated to add another two years operating time, and one of two main retrofitted maintenance items was an oil catch can (after stripping and cleaning the EGR, which was quite an expensive exercise in labour hours, but worth it... the guys got extremely good at it). The other item was adding a secondary 5 micron water trap type fuel filter. Three vehicles were selected for testing 12 months after the catch cans were installed, and found to be very clean.
well i have to admit the inside of the intake manifold is nice and shiny nowadays, no catch can but no egr functioning either.
and what is britains favorite dog of 2019 ?
The Staffordshire Bull Terrier, according to Eucanuba.
I spent a fair few years playing with the outback four-wheel-drive community, and built my own touring vehicle and then set off into the red stuff. That’s the vehicle I have here. Talking to numerous engine blokes and the technicians on the Minesite, and a whole bunch of others, I guess I formed the opinion that removing the oil was better than removing the hot gas. I think there’s heaps online written about downstream problems with engine codes and so on when fiddling with the EGR. Not necessarily on all vehicles but certainly on a fair few of them.
So I encourage anyone pondering their EGR to have a look at the other option which is to remove the material that creates the crud in the first place. Having seen the inside of blocked EGR valves, is it is to my mind freakin’ criminal that vehicle manufacturers don’t deal with this problem from the get go.
No money in 100% reliable vehicles
Gonetropo ,I think the engines the same. Mines a 2.5.As far as I know .When I look up the model the 2.5 ran from 2009-2015.Dont know for sure. So you say that your intake is clean now just by tricking the ECU. Whereabouts would I find the kit or loom to trick it. In the mean time Ill try a can of spray.Havent had the truck long , just getting my head around any issues that could occur.In saying that its 28 years newer than my last 4WD which was petrol and its great to drive.
Do you make for other Makes- models?Quote:
Originally Posted by gonetropo
With the best of intentions and to spark some debate or some additional reading, with these common rail diesels I’d be spending my hard-earned on one of these well before I block pipes or fiddle with sensors and ECUs.
https://www.westernfilters.net.au/13...ines-pro-vent/
It’s hard to find decent information that isn’t actually trying to sell you something. Might be a cleaning spray, a gadget to plug into your loom, a full ECU remap, a blanking plate kit or in my case an oil catch can. But I guess I can only emphasise what I said before - without having any effect whatsoever on the sensors or ECU, you can simply remove the oil mist from the crankcase vent.
This is what I went with on my ranger after doing a bit of research but i also have a blanking plate to fit when I find the time. Apparently it's a prick of a job. The way I see it it's the oil causing most of the problem so stop that first but it can't be good sending dirty exhaust gases back through the engine either so best stop that as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyblown
Doesn't the thing that tricks the engine into thinking it's cold upset the fuel or anything do these Mitsubishis have a dpf the ecu will need to know the engine is at operating temp to do a burn
No different sensor for that,
On a side note I’m sold on the catch cans, drained mine at 8000ks and I was shocked at what was in it
It’s unbelievable that what it stopped would normally be pumped through the intake
Once a diesel owner sees this on someone else’s vehicle, the catch can is purchased.Quote:
Originally Posted by longrange308
It’s very important to get a good one. There are some nasty cheap knockoffs out there with truly crap filtration.
Most egr is done at idle and light load.
So regardless of brand of modern diesel dont let them needlessly idle.
Yep as above it is the combination of exhaust gas and oil vapor that is the problem as far as blocking up the intake.
The cable was my preferred solution as not perminantly modifying a brand new under warrenty vehicle and no problem with fault codes etc.
it improves response off idle as at idle the intake is mostly full of exhaust gas with low oxygen content, so when you stand on the go pedal the computer first must close the egr....and wait for some 20.9% oxygen fresh air to reach the cylinders before it can start adding fuel.
With the cable it already closed so one less step in the equation.
Literally 10 seconds to fit or remove it.
yep, they work by convincing the engine management that the air outside is very cold and the egr turns off automatically. as cold weather is common in many places this does not cause a fault issueQuote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
Which reminds me id better try and remember to remove it before my serviceQuote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
Depending on how many kms the vehicle has done it may still be wise to remove the EGR and intake and clean it all out.
I pulled the inlet manifold off my old diesel car (after drowning it) and the inlet manifold was near 50% restricted due to sludge build up.
After cleaning it all out and blanking the EGR the car went much better and used a little less fuel.
Before removing it the car wouldn't rev over 3000rpm, afterwards it would rev up to 5000 no worries,and performance was greatly improved.
Can't comment on your exact vehicle but it is definitely worth doing.
I thought Id let you know what I decided to do about ERG carbon/ sludge build up. Taking Flyblowns advice and after watching lots of you tube vids I bought off trademe a Provent catch can and associated bits from western filters in Aussie. These are apparently the best. Cost me $350.00 landed at my door freight free as far as I can tell. This is cheaper than NZ prices for the same unit from other companies and cheaper than the other brands say at supercheap auto.
You can get them specifically made with brackets , pipes etc to suit whatever brand you have .Interestingly my mate has the local garage , hes fitting one to his new hilux as soon as its out of warranty with toyota.
Once ive fiited it I’ll let you know how much crap it filters out .
Cheers, Paul.
So I have a 2016 L200 which you can’t blank off the egr for a whole range of reasons. My old 09 model no worries pulled the whole thing off (not like that:sick:) and chucked it in the bin!
Anyways just sat through about 4 hours if u tube crap and I think? Thanks 40mm have just ordered the above can....we will see. This is the newest vehicle I’ve ever owned so I want to take care of it.. will keep you posted:)
@Sideshow Look in to a remap, I sent my ECU to Australia and for $700 they remapped my Patrol (way more grunt), Removed Limp mode and the EGR (EGR can stay in place but the ECU never checks for flow so can blank plate it)
