Thread: Oversteer

Spring bushes as well, if the entire diff can move on one side it can cause a power on steering effect.

any progress????

2 WD Utes are noted for loose back ends, especially when empty. All the weight is at the front and it is driven through the back wheels. Various manufacturers have different fixes for this but over time these become degraded due to wear. Your ute is 20 years old, perhaps this is the problem.
GPM.

Update: Checked wheel bearings and diff, all seems fine. But lately only at 60kph I can feel a knocking like I have a tire bulge but theres no bulge. Now after 60kph I sometimes hear a loud rumbling but can go away if I stop a vehicle than start driving again.

Originally Posted by Three O'Three

Update: Checked wheel bearings and diff, all seems fine. But lately only at 60kph I can feel a knocking like I have a tire bulge but theres no bulge. Now after 60kph I sometimes hear a loud rumbling but can go away if I stop a vehicle than start driving again.

Dont like that rumbling sound, probably not this but please check the tailshaft universals and wheel nuts. Neither will affect oversteer but can be more serious

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

Dont like that rumbling sound, probably not this but please check the tailshaft universals and wheel nuts. Neither will affect oversteer but can be more serious

@Moa Hunter. "tailshaft universal" is that the same as U-joints?

Originally Posted by Three O'Three

@Moa Hunter. "tailshaft universal" is that the same as U-joints?

No. tailshaft means the driveshaft from the back of the gearbox, the splined slipjoints and the universals which are the + shaped crosses between the yokes of the driveshaft joints. Even the flange bolts on the diff and gearbox output shaft should be checked. If you had a wheel off, were the wheel nuts tightened in a headstud pattern, so they all end up being tightened down the same. Let the handbrake off and check all the drivetrain for play. Vibration and rumbles can turn out real bad but its only 5 mins to check

Seized/jamming clutch pack next to the spider gear in the diff

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

No. tailshaft means the driveshaft from the back of the gearbox, the splined slipjoints and the universals which are the + shaped crosses between the yokes of the driveshaft joints. Even the flange bolts on the diff and gearbox output shaft should be checked. If you had a wheel off, were the wheel nuts tightened in a headstud pattern, so they all end up being tightened down the same. Let the handbrake off and check all the drivetrain for play. Vibration and rumbles can turn out real bad but its only 5 mins to check

I noticed when turning either rear wheel or the driveshaft there seems to be quite a lot of play before the other two start to turn as well. Also how much play should there be in a driveshaft hanger bearing bush?

Might even be a broken spider gear

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Might even be a broken spider gear

Dropping the oil would soon let you no if there's diff issues in my vast experience with diffs

Sent from my SM-S916B using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by BRADS

Dropping the oil would soon let you no if there's diff issues in my vast experience with diffs

Sent from my SM-S916B using Tapatalk

@BRADS. Diff is weeping a bit from driveshaft and left wheel ends

Originally Posted by Three O'Three

@BRADS. Diff is weeping a bit from driveshaft and left wheel

Could be the sparkles eating the seals away trying to get out

A bit of play in the diff isnt necessarily an issue. Ive seen some that manage at least a half turn of one wheel before all the slack gets taken up and the other starts moving - check that it moves freely and try to have someone else turn the wheel wile you get close to the diff to listen for noise.

You mention a hanger bearing bush - recommend you take the driveshaft off if you can and check the bearing and all the U-Js. the section of driveshaft between the gearbox and the hanger bearing doesnt get much variation in angle, and a UJ running in a nearly straight line all the time can wear funny. Common problem on cars with independent rear suspension - youd think they would never wear out but running in a straight line is worse than at a modest angle. Could be causing your rumble / vibration at a specific speed. Check all the bolts and any rubber bushings too. Also a slightly worn wheel bearing can do the same.

Re oversteer - roll-oversteer could be making an appearance as your suspension wears - its when body roll causes a leaf sprung diff to cant left or right while going around a corner. Shocks and anti-roll bars may be loosing their effectiveness, coupled with tires + whatever else could add up to your situation.

Originally Posted by Three O'Three

I noticed when turning either rear wheel or the driveshaft there seems to be quite a lot of play before the other two start to turn as well. Also how much play should there be in a driveshaft hanger bearing bush?

My big concern with my earlier post was for your safety if a universal let go, always worth a check if there is vibration.
Regarding the Idler bearing on the driveshaft, there shouldnt be any slop in the rubber bush, just a tiny amount and non in the bearing in its centre these are greaseable but the rubber bush does pack up. If worn it can cause vibration, but more likely vibration from the diff is damaging the idler.
Hopefully a mechanic will come on here and give better advice than mine