You could drive from the front:sick:Quote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
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You could drive from the front:sick:Quote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
I thought I saw you and the boss off to poach my flounder spot as I drove up to rocky point, turned out it was a yellow pontoon rib....in my favorite spot....,ah well,I could have set in front of them 50m away like every other bugger does but I went and set in a side channel to be polite.Quote:
Originally Posted by madjon_
A couple of hours into the trailer.
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Just tacked up and nothing mounted yet.
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What size I beam are you using there veitnamcam?
Geeze forgot about that noise, awesome to weld with, we had a dedicated welding Bay in those days, had to get all welding done by that team. Fitters and fitters mates, and then the machine shop and dedicated black smiths shop!Quote:
Originally Posted by madjon_
It is a channel (75 PFC) not an I beam (UB or UC) so 75 high 40 wide, I went with channel toes out for ease of washdown.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshow
Gunna make your own mudguards VC?
Yep, a mudguard that cannot be stood on is worse than useless so will be grunty enough to hold my 130kilo mate and as low profile as possible as the dingy will have to sit above them,would be way too wide if sat low between them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathias
man that is a sweet wee boat....... it will fair fly along when you chuck a 15hp on her......
That is one great looking punt. Been watching the build from the beginning but haven't been able to comment til yesterday. I'm sure it'll bring many years of happy boating, fishing and general mucking about. Pat yourself on the back. Would love to have half the skills you've got
Had a test run with a mate and his 15hp yam last weekend. 250kilo payload not counting fuel and motor weight =WOT 38kph, easy cruise at 27-30 kph.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
One thing I did not realise when I built this is different manufactures have different leg lenghts in the same leg length eg "Short" yam is 17.1- 17.3 inch.
I built it to have the highest transom that would suit my current 8hp yam at 17.1 inch, it goes well only cavitating at full trim and turning tight, the 15hp is 17.3 but looking over the back the difference the cav plate is under is more like 3/4 inch, no cavitation unless sever turning at full trim.
The fourstroke suzi 20 I was dreaming of is 15 inch so not going to work.
Tohasu 18hp two stroke is 17.1 and a couple hundy cheaper than a 15 yam for 3 more hp so probably where I will end up.
Thanks I hope so.Quote:
Originally Posted by Manuka
that speed is nothing to sneeze at...more than enough to get you out of (or deeper into) the crap.
Yep I hear ya. It is only 11 foot long.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
By myself in the 10f parker with the 8 I get 32kph which is starting to get a bit dodgey, two up 38kph in the Tinny Punt felt safe as houses.
Im not really after speed just enough grunt to easily plane 2 big lads and gear without going everywhere full throttle.
Bloody hell I have been both busy and slack.
Did a little this morning.
Axle and springs back from being arc sprayed.
Assembled and tacked in position (may move yet position is just a guess) to have something to work around to make some guards/step.
Once I have guards made I will have a hight to work to for the bunks.
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Very happy with the long series 450 kilo springs.....they actually have some travel.
You can get galvanized springs but they are very short and very harsh rising rate and I don't like that personally.
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as a truck driver by profession may I give you a hint/tip????
move them wheels waaay back on trailer Mate.
2 reasons
#1 it will keep motor off ground when you go over ruts
#2 most importantly....it will slow the trailers rate of turn and make it shit loads easier to back as it wont veer off to side if you lift arse cheek off seat to fart.
try it and you will see what I mean straight away.
My guess is he may have intentionally positioned them where they are to make it easy to wheel around by hand
wheeling by hand he will faaark his back quick smart with wheels there as the arse will drag if nose is up..... put em towards the back and put a trolley wheel on drawbar.
Yea the pick is a bit deceptive as the drawbeam is cut off from pick.....they are pretty far back....its quite heavy on the "ball" like that with no coupling/winch/jocky wheel yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Pretty experienced backing both very short and long trailers uphill around tight corners;) this one will be pretty easy to back compared to my tandem that is both very short and very wide.
I need get to get the guards and bunks made to sit the boat and motor on it to finalize axle position, I want good weight on the ball without being a ring tearer to lift on or off.
The drawbeam is very long at the mo (good for high speed backing;) ) but length is an issue for my garaging so the whole thing will end up as short as possible/practical.
I would like to leave it a bit longer but with two boats and trailers in the garage and another boat and trailer on the lawn I need to economize on space !
good shit Mate.....wouldv'e been a crime to not say it...... now a cunning bugga COULD make the draw beam extendable/shrinkable then you could have best of both worlds.
Skip to 1m 20sQuote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSJn2k2cOQs
We've got telescopic draw bar on the yacht trailer. We have to float the boat on and off as it is light weight and a bit fragile. The draw bar is cold galv box section and dragging it in and out scraped the galv off. We are now on our second one. The hinged one on the video is a better way .
Don't get duratorque!Quote:
Originally Posted by berg243
We are constantly replacing rusted out/failed ones with springs!
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Good idea for beach launching.Quote:
Originally Posted by ROKTOY
Bit elaborate for what I need and it wouldn't fit in shed.
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Dorotorques have about a 10yr life span & then they're stuffed from rust.Quote:
Originally Posted by berg243
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Torsion type axles (Durotorque) work well when a trailer is constantly loaded to the operating capacity. They are very rigid when unloaded and its really the tyre working as primary suspension then. They have their purpose though on some applications. Like VC said, single axle trailers work best if on a long series spring. Heaps cheaper too. VC has 450kg for this pontoon and I run 600kg on my trailer for light work and to transport the 4 wheeler. Best not to overspring or you're defeating the purpose.
Talk about fuck around eh.....busy life so has taken a while.
Just needs safety chain and number plate etc.
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Nice looking trailer. I’m recommending Carboline Chem-Bar 3500 Primer for repainting rather than galvanising boat trailers. My Stabi trailer is 2006 and every few years I ‘sand’ the chem bar back with a green pot scrubber and repaint with two coats of this stuff. It is meant to be topcoated but two coats is fine according to salesman. No rust spots at all on the trailer. Looks mint. Product available from Altex Coatings, Greerton, Tauranga. Costs about $40 per litre. One litre will do two trailers with two coats (5m boat).
That one has been blasted and arc sprayed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ingrid 51
Technically it's not as good as hot dip but I can have it done just round the road instead of chch and it is quick cheap and easy to get touched up.
I don't do painting. Hate it with a passion.
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Looks good VC
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Trailer legal.
Shuffeled some junk round and now my two car garage has two boats in it!
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Just nčed a couple of shackles for the bow safety chain.
The boat build went quite quickly considering I had no plans just an idea but the build lost momentum on the trailer.
Nothing difficult with the trailer just very busy with work and personal life.
Now look forward to getting some use out of it and adding some customization to suit its uses.
Happyness is a full shed. [emoji848]
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Add a couple of foils and offer it to Grant Dalton and the Emerates syndicate VC.
" Just need a couple of shackles for the bow safety chain " I know someone who could have sorted that out during the week aye :D Should have said mate