Thread: Timattalon's MX5 woes

@timattalon I have moved your posts to a more appropriate part of the forum, happy to rename it anything you like just let me know ?
dannyb

Originally Posted by csmiffy

Yup. Been there many times


Attachment 221960

I think I am about to find out. Went to replace a front crank seal on my MX5.....and this is what greeted me....



It is either pull engine remove crank- repair (Bro in law is a recon guy) and replace or fit a replacement motor which I have bought....

Pulling motor means new clutcu while I am in there, AC delete while I can access it (Has not wprked for years ...) and a few extra bits as well.....

Originally Posted by timattalon

I think I am about to find out. Went to replace a front crank seal on my MX5.....and this is what greeted me....

Attachment 221961

It is either pull engine remove crank- repair (Bro in law is a recon guy) and replace or fit a replacement motor which I have bought....

Pulling motor means new clutcu while I am in there, AC delete while I can access it (Has not wprked for years ...) and a few extra bits as well.....

Should have bought a FORD

Originally Posted by timattalon

I think I am about to find out. Went to replace a front crank seal on my MX5.....and this is what greeted me....

Attachment 221961

It is either pull engine remove crank- repair (Bro in law is a recon guy) and replace or fit a replacement motor which I have bought....

Pulling motor means new clutcu while I am in there, AC delete while I can access it (Has not wprked for years ...) and a few extra bits as well.....

Nah bruh, weld repair it in situ... Or with nothing to lose your other option is custom make a new key and modify the gear. Worth trying before ripping it out!

Is that a common issue with MX5 motors?

Originally Posted by No.3

Nah bruh, weld repair it in situ... Or with nothing to lose your other option is custom make a new key and modify the gear. Worth trying before ripping it out!

This.

Originally Posted by timattalon

I think I am about to find out. Went to replace a front crank seal on my MX5.....and this is what greeted me....

Attachment 221961

It is either pull engine remove crank- repair (Bro in law is a recon guy) and replace or fit a replacement motor which I have bought....

Pulling motor means new clutcu while I am in there, AC delete while I can access it (Has not wprked for years ...) and a few extra bits as well.....

Good excuse to rip it out and throw some insane horsepower in.

Originally Posted by timattalon

I think I am about to find out. Went to replace a front crank seal on my MX5.....and this is what greeted me....

Attachment 221961

It is either pull engine remove crank- repair (Bro in law is a recon guy) and replace or fit a replacement motor which I have bought....

Pulling motor means new clutcu while I am in there, AC delete while I can access it (Has not wprked for years ...) and a few extra bits as well.....

Tim...try a new key with Loctite 660.
Give that crank end a good clean up first.
This stuff is made for this sort of problem.
If nothing else, it will save you from having to rush into a motor removal right now.
https://www.repco.co.nz/car-care-pan...167/p/A1091040

As posted do a high class bodgy. Make sure the keyway on the shaft is as square as possible with a file or such and make a stepped key.
Have had to do that years ago on shaft and couplings that weren't the same for what ever reason. Not often but had to sometimes.
If it's lasted that long on that one if done properly with some retaining compound for good measure you don't really have anything to lose and it may outlast the car

Originally Posted by Grey Kiwi

Tim...try a new key with Loctite 660.
Give that crank end a good clean up first.
This stuff is made for this sort of problem.
If nothing else, it will save you from having to rush into a motor removal right now.
https://www.repco.co.nz/car-care-pan...167/p/A1091040

I used a very similar product on a primary reduction pinion in the front axle of my Kubota that had developed some really bad slop. It was a 2 pot product. I dti'd it before and after, to make sure I had got it glued in spot on. That was 8 years ago. No problems since.

Originally Posted by Maca49

Should have bought a FORD

Had a Fairmont for a while. This is way more fun but I do miss the Fairmont....(Dont miss filling the tank though....)

Originally Posted by No.3

Nah bruh, weld repair it in situ... Or with nothing to lose your other option is custom make a new key and modify the gear. Worth trying before ripping it out!

Too much other stuff near it made of melty stuff. And it would need hardening if I dont want to do it again soon. I looked at the JB weld repair but I dont think that will last either...figured I will have the car for a while yet and there were some other bits that need adressing so I thought Id bite the bullet so to speak and get it all done now...

Originally Posted by csmiffy

As posted do a high class bodgy. Make sure the keyway on the shaft is as square as possible with a file or such and make a stepped key.
Have had to do that years ago on shaft and couplings that weren't the same for what ever reason. Not often but had to sometimes.
If it's lasted that long on that one if done properly with some retaining compound for good measure you don't really have anything to lose and it may outlast the car

It had a new cambelt, tensioers etc about 39000 km agn when it 200,000 and it was not like it then. I suspect I have done something wrong on reassembly for it to have occurred over such a short time. I looked at the loktite / JB weld options but I have access to a much lower km motor and a few other things that need addressing too so I figure I would do the whole engine swap and go from there. Afterwards, I may do the original motor up as a spare or sell it to recoup some of my costs. I can get the crank done at mates rates through my Bro in laws business and I intend running this old thing for a fair while yet....

It must be an earlier one. I've had 5 that must be the short nosed crank.

edit: miata.net which is a MX5 forum has how to repair it properly.

Originally Posted by timattalon

It had a new cambelt, tensioers etc about 39000 km agn when it 200,000 and it was not like it then. I suspect I have done something wrong on reassembly for it to have occurred over such a short time. I looked at the loktite / JB weld options but I have access to a much lower km motor and a few other things that need addressing too so I figure I would do the whole engine swap and go from there. Afterwards, I may do the original motor up as a spare or sell it to recoup some of my costs. I can get the crank done at mates rates through my Bro in laws business and I intend running this old thing for a fair while yet....

Chances are you didn’t do crank bolt up to correct torque or torqued up to setting with dry threads, that’s common cause for this happening. See it reasonably regularly on engines where timing belt replaced by diy, no offence intended but just my observation over the years.

There's a very good product available in NZ called Belzona (spelling??) E-Metal.
It's a 2 part mix. It was used to do a repair in situ on a gear box that had a chunk break out of it at the last comapny I worked for.
GB eventually replaced but the E-Metal held.

https://www.belzona.com/en/products/1000/1211.aspx