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Backing uphill is worse, that's where you have the issue trying to shove against the brakes... I haven't experienced a 10% braking thing, from what I've seen they seem to either not mind it or try to lock up on you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathias
I actually thought should say (assumed) the brakes were inactivated when the reverse lights came on as we back ours up hill into a shed no issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by No.3
I think I came to this conclusion one day after the wife ground the trailer plug off and i was doing a quick fix and didn't have the reverse wire in the right hole it wouldn't go backwards.
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Yep that's the electronic ones, some of them do that. The mechanical jobbies are supposed to have a cam arrangement that is meant to allow you to go backwards, but your mileage might vary on that. The ones I've had the pleasure of have been fine going frontwards not so good backwards...
I used to use an Ifor Williams trailer in the UK. Those mechanical override drums are awesome. The only issue is reversing the trailer after having come to a stop where the trailer brakes have engaged down a hill, they can’t disengage until the pressure is taken off of the drawbar.
Hardly ever an issue.
I looked at fitting them to my caravan but they were horrendously priced here as not the norm.
Ahh - that would make sense. That would explain a lot - the place where I was experiencing most of the issues required you to drive down a hill and then reverse into the worksite to get the pump the right way around. Not ideal haha
I tow a 1500kg boat unbraked, no probs. How much does this thing way and does your Ute have sway control on it? Quick correction of tail wag.
Brakes on trailer and caravans are a a pain int arse, unless needed
if anyone has a pommy caravan look behind the axle and if you see a metal box unit its probably an alko stabiliser. this measures sway and puts the brakes on slightly.
when these van arrive in nz they normally cut off the electrical plug and fit the flat one. however if you fit a dual layer fat plug to the car and van ( you will need a powered by ignition circuit though capable of 15 A ) then the stabiliser will work.
if there is an led light on the a-frame cover its a good indication too. is about a $2000 unit so well worth a look
Needed especially since most vehicles are only rated to 750kg unbaked so any crash you have then your insurance will likely decline your claim.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maca49
The 750kg unbaked is an ADR thing, only reason it got in to NZ is cross portability of aussie standards. That's also the reason our trailer and vehicle standards don't line up unless the trailer was built in aus under ADR...
Over 2000kg in NZ the trailer must be braked - the issue comes up at wof time in that you can have a trailer with tandem axles capable of 2500kg but the trailer being empty at wof times means they can test it without brakes at a weight under 2000Kg.
Lots of good advice here, thanks everyone, learning alot about towing!. I found out the caravan has a controller mounted on it already (probably a shitty one a few plp have warned against). But ill see how it goes and if its no good put a better one on like an Elecbrake. Caravan is only 1200kg so not crazy weight.