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Thread: Barrel cleaning

  1. #1
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    Barrel cleaning

    What procedures do people use for this? I'm talking about for copper fouling here.

  2. #2
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    Sweets 7.62 solvent drowned on a patch wait 5 10 min dry patch. repeat until no more blue, 2 or3 times is usually enough

    Not owning a s/s rifle mine gets a oily patch every time it comes for a walk,breakfree clp seems to have a very mild copper removing quality,noticeable when putting a dry patch down before its next outing.
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  3. #3
    Official Cheese Shaman Spanners's Avatar
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    Any Sweets left in a barrel with oil over the top, turns into some 'horrible pitting juice'

    I brought a gun that had had that happen to it (diagnosed with Mitch Maxbury over a few sessions) he'd seen in happen a couple of times.
    Did some research and found what happens as far as acids getting formed etc - have it on puter at home.

    Wont touch Sweets with a bargepole anymore -Use Boretech Elminator - it would take out alot of blue that Sweets left behind.

  4. #4
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    Hmm. The first time iv ever heard this.
    I am pedantic about cleaning it tho so dont think this will be an issue.
    The only other one I have tried I forget the name white bottle. Cu2 remover or something was completely useless wouldn't remove ANY copper took it straight back to the shop and got sweets again.
    Used properly I am confident sweets removes all copper and is good for carbon too however I had planned to get some of whatever Duley tested as the fastest(cant remember which at the mo) when current bottle of sweets runs out.
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  5. #5
    Member sako75's Avatar
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    What do you use to completely remove Sweets after cleaning to neutralize it?

  6. #6
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    Just a few very tight patches,Its ammonia based like most copper removers so if paranoid i guess you could put a wet patch down to absorb ammonia.I'm picking any pitting caused by it would be from leaving in the bore.Ammonia is extremely hygroscopic.IE attracted to and dissolves in water,any left in the bore would be like having water in the barrel.
    Have been using it in my 85 for 4 maybe 5 years? and cant see any pitting mind you I dont have a bore scope but if anything it keeps shooting better and better
    It was slip 2000 I was thinking of earlier=shit didn't even touch the copper.
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  7. #7
    Not just an internet expert... The Claw's Avatar
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    I use KG Industries copper remover. Seems very fast and effective (although I don't have any barrels that collect copper badly). Have KG carbon cleaner, degreaser, and oil as well. All good stuff.
    If it's not a first round hit you need to practice more

  8. #8
    Member andyanimal31's Avatar
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    +1 KG was way better and faster than elimnator and when all else fails get some JBs bore paste on the job.
    I found this out when my trg was fouling when new.i now give the barrel a good JBing before i fire any shots through a new barrel whic makes barrel breakin virtually non existent.
    Quote Originally Posted by The Claw View Post
    I use KG Industries copper remover. Seems very fast and effective (although I don't have any barrels that collect copper badly). Have KG carbon cleaner, degreaser, and oil as well. All good stuff.

  9. #9
    Member Beavis's Avatar
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    Kroil on carbon, M pro 7 on copper, Slip 2000 EWL to protect the bore

  10. #10
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    Another vote for KG1. I used to use eliminator, but recently switched. KG1 is harder to work with I have to apply it into the port of the bore guide ahead of a patch or use a brush as it won't soak into a patch it just beads off. It has an evil stink too and it doesn't cause a nice obvious blue colour change like eliminator. However a scrub with KG1 followed by a few patches over a 10-20 minute period, a couple of patches of solvent and then a couple of patches of eliminator and generally not a trace of blue from the eliminator or a worst a very faint hint. With eliminator it was much harder to reach this point.

    Now I don't even bother checking with the eliminator

  11. #11
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    Use M-Pro 7 copper cleaner soak patch wait 5-10 mins, dry patch, repeat process until dry patch comes out clean then run wet patch of inox down barrel to protect. Also use inox on outside of metal work & bolt.

  12. #12
    Lovin Facebook for hunters kiwijames's Avatar
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    KG12 is the shizzle. Are you sure its copper fouling? I have found carbon just as stubborn to move in some instances.

  13. #13
    Member Dead is better's Avatar
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    I'll second that! I used KG12 copper remover, and kroil last weekend as i broke in my new t3 6.5mm 'sporter'. My new coated steel cleaning rod and boreguide worked well too. Gotta get the gunsmith to look at the bore with his camera to see what to do next. My instinct is to just put another 10-20 downrange but a final check might be prudent

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  14. #14
    DAF
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    I use Slip2000 to get rid of the carbon first, then Butches Bore shine for the copper.
    I have been meaning to give the KG products a go as I have only heard good things
    Last edited by DAF; 09-04-2012 at 09:46 PM.
    "Such is life..." - Ned Kelly

  15. #15
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    I've started using eliminator and really like it. Can't get sweets around here.

 

 

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