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Hi all. I'm on the market for a new hunting/bush knife. I don't have a massive budget and saw some decent looking knifes from $100 to $150, two were Hunters Element. Are they any good? What does everyone recommend? Whats a good brand for affordable knives? Its a shame no one in nz sells Victorinox hunting/bush knives because I love their pocket knives.
You can get a good Knives of Alaska knife for around that money.
https://www.blademaster.co.nz/produc...?orderby=price
https://www.top-gear.co.nz/shop/SHOP...ort/price.html
I use the Alpha wolf. https://www.top-gear.co.nz/shop/SHOP...l+-+326FG.html
Mine has the Micrata handle though but is almost $100 more.
Another option: https://www.top-gear.co.nz/shop/SHOP...k+-+161FG.html
Look at the outdoor edge 3.5 inch razor lite.. hunters element are ok, need regular sharpening, heavy. Good in the hard though, strong build
yes they are here forsale....
shit loads of them around to buy.
PERSONALLY the best knife for me is a green river bushmans friend..victorinox do one the same as do knifcut but call it a rabbiters knife which is the one I use now. sort of best of all worlds,close to a boning knife,pointy enough for sticking pigs,curvy enough for skinning long enough to do bigger jobs and small enough for fiddly jobs...less than hundy bucks and for me....they just work.
Go buy 7 bahcos
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...6d7fbdd892-001 two minutes to wait for trademe to be semi unretarded and heaps of them there..just use bushmans friend as search
Is that those orange handle things they sell at farmlands?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst
I got one of those but needing something a bit more robustQuote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Victorinox are readily available. Try knifeguy.co.nz, knife.co.nz , or nisbets.co.nz. There are others as well.
- I really like the look of these. I don't have one, but have others in the range and they're awesome. I believe they do sheaths for them as well. https://www.savebarn.co.nz/victorino...n-handle-50140
- Outdoor Edge replaceable blade knives. Ridiculously cheap on AliExpress, not much more in NZ.
- Gerber Gator knives with drop point, folder or fixed blade.
All hunting knives rather than bush knives. All cheap, none will be family heirlooms, but they will do the job.
In that case, maybe two knives? One bush knife and one for animal preparation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Three O'Three
more robust......fuck me sideways,what are you trying to do with it???? get a machete perhaps???Quote:
Originally Posted by Three O'Three
and if perhaps you DO want a machete,try placemakers..thats where I found the one I had been after for ages..fat rounded tip and moulded plastic handle
https://www.jokerknifestore.com.au/joker-knives/
these guys look to have some nice ones
You have a way with words!Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Victory knife next step up from Bacho
https://victoryknives.co.nz/lightweight-hunters-set/ or you can buy a drop point or Rabbiters Knife for about $30
OR TM https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...ing/4389276252
Got one of these thinking of moving on. Topo many knives. A Old original bowie knife, 6 inch blade, Widder , Solingen, Germany, Stag horn handle bass rivets and guard. Scabbard is a bit tired but functional.
Attachment 236409
I've got a hunters element pocket knife, its about a 3 or 4 inch blade. Had it for over a year and no real signs of wear. Holds it's edge pretty well considering how many times I've accidentally hit bone when butchering. I recently got a set of butchery knives and took them out to cut up goats. Pocket knives don't even come close to how well a proper butchery knife glides around joins and all that IMO. Hunters Element knives are pretty good fat solid blades.
Like the look of those too!Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbear
A lot of people bag them be 30 years on Im still using my old mercator
Honey badger! Amazing little knives.
WARNING SHAMELESS SELF-PROMOTION
I've got these listed as other options:
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....-knives-98619/
BB.
Love my Svord. NZ made and many come with a sheath. Plenty available under 150 if you shop around
Identify your target beyond all doubt because you never miss (right?) and I'll be missed.
I did look at Svord. I have their peasant knife, doesn't hold its edge very well and I'm gonna stay away from high carbon steel and stick with stainlessQuote:
Originally Posted by Eat Meater
Buy a victorinox boning knife
U can get em for about $30 online
Heat up a bit of pvc tube shape into scabbard, ain't gonna look cool , but boy does it do the job
I have plenty more expensive knives
I buy these buy the dozen and hand em out to mates , keep 2 or so on the boat , In the ute/s. Takes an edge like nothing. U can even use the top of the rolled down car window to polish em
I'm disapointed I can't find anyone in NZ who sells these. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIvUihtzkf4
If svord won't hold edge for the OP a Vickyknicker won't either
When you've spent 12hrs filleting rough dory,or even an hour filleting sand shark.a knife holding its edge takes on a whole different meaning forever more.
Sharpening a Svord is harder. With the convex edge a steel is useless, but the edge should last longer, specially with the high carbon versions. But the OP wants stainless, so it's academic
Identify your target beyond all doubt because you never miss (right?) and I'll be missed.
As @Micky Duck says; the Victory Bushman's friend is great, or a Victory boning knife or Drop Point Hunter. I prefer the Drop Point Hunter, but everyone has different tastes. Cheap too if you buy direct from Victory. We used Victory knives in the butchery for boning beef, sheep and pork. After a morning of boning, a quick 5 mins on the stone at lunchtime and you were set for the afternoon. You don't need to spend 100's of dollars on a knife.... Unless you're chopper meat shooting; no hunting knife will do as much boning etc as a butcher's knife!
https://victoryknives.co.nz/drop-point-knife-10cm/
https://victoryknives.co.nz/outdoors-knife/
Or this; if you want a sheath too; https://victoryknives.co.nz/lightweight-hunters-set/
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eat Meater
you say WHAT????? the job of a steel is to straighten the feather edge..thats it...nothing else.... picture if you will a hand saws cutty bits in miniture,ir the ginsu2000 with its serated edge..your razor sharp hunting knife is just like that in minature. its the tiny serrations on edge that help with cutting...when you touch something hard,you bend or fold the wee teeth over,the job of the steel is to realign them straight....or take off the ones sticking out to the side..this is why you can only steel for so long before you need to put blade back on a stone..to put wee serations back on and remove the "shoulder" you have created with steel and use... picture the flashing on ridge of iron roof if you will,it has small rounded bit right at apex...re stoning blade takes that "rounded off" bit back to being pointy again......endlessly repeated until yo ueither loose knife or its ground down to a tiny sliver too small for fook all.
All a steel does is straighten the edge. You can't sharpen a knife with it. Well; I suppose you technically could if your knife was completely buggered and you used the course steel that comes with many skinning knives etc. I always use as fine a steel as possible. And have often used super fine wet and dry sandpaper to make my steel even smoother.
As an aside; I worked with a butcher (the boss's son) who sharpened his knife with a coarse rat-tailed file.... When he was boning it sounded like he was using a wood rasp on the bone! Well; being the boss's son, he was a complete jerk. I can still remember the day I got back to work after my lunch to see the other apprentice using the son's knife to cut through the concrete back step in retribution for something that had gone down. Funny thing is that the son never noticed any difference to his knife's sharpness! :D
My Svord peasant went from razor sharp to dull half way through skinning a rabbitQuote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
That's what the warranty card says. Don't use a steel but an oil stone. Makes sense - if the edge is actually the point where a continuous curve terminates, using a steel in the usual way will remove the rounded parts leading to the edge before doing anything to feathering
Identify your target beyond all doubt because you never miss (right?) and I'll be missed.
This is a (very) common misconceptionQuote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
While straightening of the edge is one function of honing, rolled edges aren't usually the main form of blunting, and straightening them isn't generally what restores the sharpness.
Those small serations you mention actually tend to shear off, chip or abrade out during use rather than rolling. Even if you get a roll on something hard, much of that roll will actually abrade off when steeling the edge to restore it.
The main sharpening mechanic of a steel is actually still just abrasion, same as any other honing/sharpening method. A small amount but abrasion none the less. The steel abrades away enough to create a small microbevel and reset the apex geometry. This is why they don't work well on harder knife steels, they simply can not abrade material fast enough to restore the edge.
Good article here if you want to learn more
https://scienceofsharp.com/2018/08/2...ing-do-part-1/
Just use a strop, although while not truly convex a steel will work fine to establish a microbevel. You won't notice any practical difference in use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eat Meater
