Morning All,
Has anyone had any issues with the rand starting to come off a pair of Lowa Tibets? Around the toe.
They would be about a year old. Only used on the hill, not in yards or anything like that.
Cheers
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Morning All,
Has anyone had any issues with the rand starting to come off a pair of Lowa Tibets? Around the toe.
They would be about a year old. Only used on the hill, not in yards or anything like that.
Cheers
Yeah mine are peeling on the inside of the boot near the ball of my foot. Have tried gluing it back but peeled again.
I've always sealed them with sno seal so that may not have helped. Mine are about 5 years old now.
My Lowa boots were rubbish. Same issue plus soles delaminated. Binned tham after shop assistant told me the problem was through lack of use. Phttt.
Have gone to Salewas.
Shoegoo is good for stick them back on.
Thank you. Sounds like this will be my first and last pair of Lowa boots.
Not Lowa but similar issues and advice on how to repair.
https://meindl.co.nz/pages/wear-tear...r-and-warranty
Personally I won't be buying another boot with a PU midsole if I can avoid it.
I think we need to be realistic. These boots like some of the Lowa or Meindl models are designed for hiking and mountain trials and climbing. NZ hunting is very tough on boots . In and out of rivers, dried in front of the fire or heated hut and then in many cases covered in products not meant or approved.
So it does pay to buy a boot as designed for NZ conditions as possible. That may not be some models we try and use for these conditions.
You need to use a water based waterproofing agent. The glue on the rand gets dissolved by oil based waterproofing.
From
Using Water-Based Care Product
To keep your LOWA boots leather upper supple and hydrated, we recommend you ONLY use appropriate water based care products.
We have formulated our LOWA Active Crème & Water Stop to provide the best care for your boots.
Other wax-based treatments, despite softening the leather, often clog the pores on the leather’s surface with little to no hydration. This prevents the leather from breathing.
Some oil, petroleum or animal fat-based treatments have also been known to dissolve adhesives used on the boot, causing the rand to lift off from the upper.
To avoid these adverse effects, we recommend you avoid the following treatments:
Dubbin
Neatsfoot Oil
Mink Oil
Beeswax
Sno Seal
The boot care info is from https://lowa.co.nz/pages/boot-care?g...SAAEgIknvD_BwE
Had a pair of Sportivas do the same used weekly for tramping on tracks only, only 6 months old when it started glued it back and got a year out of them. Worst boot I ever owned. Bought budget grisport hikers and 3 years later still going but not used much now since getting a pair of Salewas
I’ve only used the recommended cream and the rand has been perfect. It’s missing in spots from getting ripped off on rocks but that’s just wear and tear and age.
I really wish they’d put the active cream in a flexy plastic tube instead of the metal one it comes in. Ends up crimped and splits sometimes. Hard to get the last little bit out without fluffing around cutting it open.
Anything with a PU foam midsole suffer from hydrolysis.
Its the environment we use the boots in here.
My Lowas have lasted 10+ hard years.
https://lowa.co.nz/pages/hydrolysis
I don't see why people worry bot the rand you still got your boot underneath & the rand is separate from the sole when mine starts pealing I just cut it back to where the glues still holding yea it stops getting a few marks & cut in the leather but has anyone actually ever cut there boots though on rocks. When I was high country shepard I never had boots with rands & never cut a cut that deep it fuck the boots & that where the only boots I'd wear
On my Tibet once the rand had peeled off it exposed the seam down by the sole. The stitching wore out through rubbing and the seam opened allowing water in and the boot to eventually fall to pieces.
My tibets have been mint. Hundreds of km on them. Hunted in them almost every single weekend this last year and year before, including 95km in 2 weeks over the roar. Have minor peel on the rand on the side of the boot but seems to be caused by the jagged terrain and rocks of the place I hunt the most. Most boots will loose the sole if not used enough as the glue goes hard from under use. If you read the care instructions it states the boots must be worn at a minimum every 3 months to keep the glue supple and the leather treated regularly to keep it from splitting and cracking. The same would be for the rand, if the runner dries out on top of dry leather I doubt any kind of glue would hold it together
Was just looking at new boots for my son and checked when I brought my tibets. In reply #2 I said mine were about 5 years old and layered with snoseal from the day I got them, turns out they are just short of 7 1/2 years old and they have been used in some pretty aggressive environments. They may be expensive but for the price I got them for back then it's worked out cheaper than some other cheap brand from the green shed.
Happy customer here.
I run the lowa rangers. I find them the perfect balance of rigidity and weight. Each pair lasts me 4-5 years and I thrash them. Never sit them near a fire to dry them out.
Yes the rand adhesion issue has been around for a few years in NZ. I had the same issue on my boots (Scarpa & Katmandu NTX) over the last decade. Tried Shoogoo, ados glue etc etc - all very temp type repair. Then heard about others using wader repair glue - called 'Stormsure' available in small and larger squeeze tubes. Finally found the glue that works - brilliant stuff. Available in H&F shops or buy online from other suppliers. The trick is to ensure your boot is dry - i used a match stick or small painters brush to push the 'stormsure' glue between the rand and leather. Dries overnight. Having used this method the last 10 years or so on two prs of my hunting boots, seems to work well without the rand peeling. And I am hunting in tahr country/screes at times. Make sure after the 'stormsure' tube is opened, place in the freezer until required again - saves the remainder glue going off in the tube.