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Sarvo DPT


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Thread: show us your chainsaws

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauser308 View Post
    Yeah, there's a Poulan series that were functionally identical to several of those - the 2036/36 series and a couple of others. Whatever factory built the Poulan saws was responsible for those others too, but as far as I can tell there wasn't any of the commercial split case saws in the mix...
    Those Poulans are also sold as McCullochs husky’s and Jreds , outside of that they don’t really build any saws with the Poulan name . Shame because the last pro saws they made like the 655bp were awesome saws .

  2. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by m101a1 View Post
    do tell more ,technique etc sounds interesting
    @m101a1, no special technique. Just a cordless grinder fitted with a 100 or thereabouts flapper disc (set the grit according to the hardness of the metal). Harder metal like the 500 series bisalloy or hardtex whatevers will need a more aggro grit otherwise you'll be there forever and will run out of batteries.

    Once you've got the right grit size selected on your flap disc, just run it up and down the edge at the right angle without a lot of pressure (let the disc to the work). Really controllable and easy to get a really decent tool edge. Double bevel edges, whatever you need...

    I have a nail on the wall, and do the ride on blades a couple of times a season so the load doesn't get too high on the rideon's engine and driveline. Once each blade is tickled up I hang em on the nail and see where they settle, if they are totally on the piss I take another lick off the low side and try again. Normally only a couple and they balance up fine. Really does make a difference (until the missus tries to mow dirt and avo stones...).
    m101a1 and XR500 like this.

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauser308 View Post
    @m101a1, no special technique. Just a cordless grinder fitted with a 100 or thereabouts flapper disc (set the grit according to the hardness of the metal). Harder metal like the 500 series bisalloy or hardtex whatevers will need a more aggro grit otherwise you'll be there forever and will run out of batteries.

    Once you've got the right grit size selected on your flap disc, just run it up and down the edge at the right angle without a lot of pressure (let the disc to the work). Really controllable and easy to get a really decent tool edge. Double bevel edges, whatever you need...

    I have a nail on the wall, and do the ride on blades a couple of times a season so the load doesn't get too high on the rideon's engine and driveline. Once each blade is tickled up I hang em on the nail and see where they settle, if they are totally on the piss I take another lick off the low side and try again. Normally only a couple and they balance up fine. Really does make a difference (until the missus tries to mow dirt and avo stones...).
    I reckon he thought @XR500 was referring to sharpening a chainsaw chain with a flap disc.


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  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marty Henry View Post
    Just wait till you have to resharpen it, more teeth than a great white.

    Only 24 teeth on this one


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    rugerman, ebf, Micky Duck and 1 others like this.

  5. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSL View Post
    I reckon he thought @XR500 was referring to sharpening a chainsaw chain with a flap disc.


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    I bet someone's tried. Worse, I bet someone has worked out a way...

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSL View Post

    Only 24 teeth on this one


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    That's lucky. Bad enough sharpening a 22" full comp. One of them full comp would be a full time job, a file a day material...

  7. #97
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    Itíll get a full comp chain at some point


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  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSL View Post
    I reckon he thought @XR500 was referring to sharpening a chainsaw chain with a flap disc.


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    correct just looking for easier way on chainsaw

  9. #99
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    Someone posted this a while back. I haven't bought one yet but they do look pretty handy. I seem to quite often sharpen one side a bit more than the other when I do them by hand.
    https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/...04083251953125

    Quote Originally Posted by m101a1 View Post
    correct just looking for easier way on chainsaw

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by m101a1 View Post
    correct just looking for easier way on chainsaw
    Probably the easiest way (or quickest) is those 3-in-1 file things. I've tried the rotary diamond things, the grinder, the guided file thing that swings out of the way, pretty much everything...

    The rotary diamond bits are actually OK and good for a major realignment and sort out but no good for routine sharpening. Just too aggressive, takes too much off. Same with the grinding machines, and worse with those is that they can heat and soften the part of the tooth that you really want to stay hard. I got lazy one day and took a set of chains into a shop to get sorted out, fark me - came back looking like a clown had had a go with a 9" grinder. Teeth all different lengths, some blued, some rakers not touched others removed... Needless to say I didn't do that again. The flippy filing guide is good for a purpose, resetting angles, and with a set of dividers or a vernier can cut teeth back to the same length.

    A file of some sort is the best option I think for getting the $$ out of a chain vs damage and/or wasting life, but yeah it's not quick. I've never gotten into fancy grinds, just straight round filing and 25thou rakers.
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  11. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by rugerman View Post
    Someone posted this a while back. I haven't bought one yet but they do look pretty handy. I seem to quite often sharpen one side a bit more than the other when I do them by hand.
    https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/...04083251953125
    There is a think a manual guide that looks a bit like that, you hold it down and back against the tooth and file it. Never got one so far, but you can get diamond coated chainsaw files that would go pretty trick I'd say. My problem is I just don't seem to be too hard on files, and if they do get a bit slow cutting they are still useful for rough jobs.

  12. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by rugerman View Post
    Someone posted this a while back. I haven't bought one yet but they do look pretty handy. I seem to quite often sharpen one side a bit more than the other when I do them by hand.
    https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/...04083251953125
    Really common especially when reaching around the saw if sharpening with the powerhead on the bar... I built a tensioner that bolts onto the bar and has a rim sprocket to tension the chain on the bar. That way, in a vice and same access both sides. Can do a 20" 3/8 chain touch up in about 15mins, including rakers and setting the thing up. Having same access both sides is something that you have to try to understand how much the power head stuffs up your access and filing angles - it's really weird.

  13. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSL View Post

    Only 24 teeth on this one


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    I've got a skip tooth rip chain for the big bar but that's only one on one off. I take it that's a granberg chain, how much does that slow the cut? My skip doesn't seem to make much difference but the saw runs easier and the cut a bit smoother. I think granberg y also used to make a half tooth one.

  14. #104
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    No, not porn. Here's a double ender in action

    Name:  Double ended chainsaw.JPG
Views: 93
Size:  178.5 KB
    Marty Henry and Micky Duck like this.

  15. #105
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    Speaking of files, I succumbed to a pack of 12 .325s off Ali a while ago. Bloody cheap and I wasn't expecting much but they are easily as good as anything else I've ever bought. If anything, they held their edge longer!

    -- just had a look, this seems to be them. Bit more expensive though at ~$1.50 each delivered incl GST

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...70549850%22%7D
    Last edited by 6x47; 21-08-2021 at 09:07 AM.
    7mmsaum, Shearer and paremata like this.

 

 

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