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I have found that the flash super powerful bright spotlights we have used lately are a very 'white' light and dont show animals through a scope very well. The image is washed out with little colour and can be hard to pick from the background.
Anyway got thinking on this and realised that it will be because the spotlight is producing only a small part of the light spectrum.
Can anyone recommend a light that will show an animal clearly and eyes ?
I don't think LED's 'hold' animals as well as what bulbs do, but then everyone around here seems to be using thermals.
Used a brand new Ford Ranger last week and the headlight tint has to be the best I have ever seen
Could see deer out to 400m and easily put the crosshairs where needed
Find out what that tint spectrum is, if that’s the right word for it :)
light frequency is measured in kelvins (K) the higher the K the more into the blue you go. a normal lightbulb was 3000K, the "super white" you see in most LED's now is around 6000K.
but thats all they produce while halogens etc are white they also range into the infra red to the UV. i have found especially on rabbits its the infra that gets you the startled "look into the crosshairs"
I'm sure one of the light gurus will be along shortly, but I think if the small silicon blob covering the led is removed ( de doming) it changes the light into a bit more of the "yellow" spectrum. I guess you could try different lights with different colour temperatures to see which one you prefer. The slightly more yellow ones show colour a bit more I think. " cool white" Vs "warm white" etc...
it alters the beam spread etc but not the frequency of the light.Quote:
Originally Posted by rugerman
i have repaired 1400 plus spotlights so far and the differences between each batch is amazing, from yellow to blue is the norm
What Rugerman said. My Maxtoch dedomed torches will show cattle (and deer) up very well out to 800ish m. But its not just the color, a great hunting torch has to have the right lens shape to give you a tight beam plus 'spill', so you can see a lot around the edges of the beam. Also allows you to use the edge of the beam on jumpy animals, instead of blinding them with a direct super powerful spot. GM and mudgripz did a shitload of development work on just this subject, hence their creations are pretty much regarded as the 'gold standard' for monster spotlight capability in a small torch size package:thumbsup:
For floundering I found the led light wasn’t very good, the flounder were much easier to see with the old school bulb light which was more yellow.
I have two long range hunting lights. One is a Maxtoch 2X which has a warmer white light, and the other is another Chinese brand with a very stark white beam.
The Maxtoch is definitely the light I always use, just because it does highlight rabbits better, and is nicer to look at generally.
Both lights are good out past 1000M, have very similar beam patterns, so the only difference really is the colour tint of the LED.
I've got one of their M1 Archer torches, best small handtorch ever, means I'm carrying a spare battery for my headlamp (HO1R) at the same time.Quote:
Originally Posted by XR500
Just shoot them in the daylight, problem solved! :thumbsup:
They had that issue with LED surgical lamps early in in the history of LED lights. Poor tissue definition. Solved then by adding a few red LEDs to the arrays. Should be unnecessary to do with modern LEDs, but problem is that the brightest LEDs sell best, "XXXX" lumens vs "XXX" lumens, the problem is the brightest are brightest because they have a dominance of blue light.
White LEDs are blue led's (the brightest of all LEDs) with a screen over them which transmits the underlying blue light, but also absorbs some of it and emits another colour, which together with blue gives an illusion of white. So the the less non-blue, the more lumens you can advertise. But they are blue lumens.
One poor man's solution is to use an orange or pink highlighter on the inside of the plastic window over the LED array. You just want more red in there - but you can achieve this by filtering out more of the blue.
That be good for shooting all those Kaweka Sika I guess,.on that note will we get a 2022 update on your Kaweka sika thread,.really miss themQuote:
Originally Posted by 7mmsaum
Hamish
Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk
They are worthy of their real designation as the CHCH Pixies. Gifted dudes who caused lotsa deer to die and for those with the magic Pixie Maxtoch many still die.Quote:
Originally Posted by XR500
Yep :) and a little rugerman waits for them to come up with their new design :)
Actually it was ManualMan off the other forum from Wellington who dedomed mine . Not sure if he's on this forum.
Have you considered an NV scope and light Moa ? Make eyes stand out like spotlights with reflected light. Not always the easiest to see the whole animal though, but I guess that depends on what you are shooting and where.
That's where thermal comes in - poor buggers don't stand a chance through thermal . You can see animals where any kind of light won't pick them up due to foliage reflection, distance etc.
I have a Olight Javelot and a Maxtoch Sniper. The Olight is “de-domed” from the factory and throws a much more user friendly light than the maxtoch which throws a very white “icy” hue that makes things difficult to make out in detail at distance. I have a small maxtoch single 18650 torch also that I’ve had for years, I had it de-domed and it most definitely changed the hue of the light to that more user friendly hue that was less white than before I had it done
Do many of you use the red light ones at all? id had decent success with small game with them
In all honesty I cant justify the expense of a thermal scope for shooting hares, rabbits, Roos and the occasional pig or deer thats where it shouldn't be. With the very white light, a rabbit can be flat on the ground and near invisible in dead grass.
The other issue, and no less a headache is when there is moisture in the air and the spotlight sends a giant white jedi light sabre beam into the distance. All that reflected light makes it bloody hard to look through a scope that magnifies it several times
This is one of the reasons I've been seriously considering something like the PARD or an ATN scope - mainly for the little stuff when I'm solo at homeQuote:
Originally Posted by Moa Hunter
@Ryan_Songhurst, what lights does your father use ?. One bloke I know uses a 30watt light for shooting hares commercially and just has them in the edge of the beamQuote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst
He’s moving more and more to thermal only. Has just completed contract doing all of the Macaulay and I think he’s doing the Godley at the moment and contract states no light sources are to be used. On some of the stuff where he does still use lights he actually uses the old school lightforce gear mounted to his helmet and has the Olight Javelots setup to rifle mountQuote:
Originally Posted by Moa Hunter
Decided to get a Maxtoch with green filter. Soft light that doesnt wreck my own night vision and yet is still good to shoot to 350 (not that I will ever shoot that far in the dark) and hares and Rabbits will carry on grazing in the beam, which is not something that I have had with other lights.
Thanks for input