Printable View
Hi folks, do any of you have one of this portable cabins from trademe, are they any good?
I'm thinking of building one in the woods but not sure how good they are or if they are suitable
Attachment 233067
The spot that I'm thinking of building it on is off grid and humid so wooden cabin will get mouldy in no time.
any feedback? thank you. Here is the cabin link
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...8?bof=1eU030cv
Don't be fooled into thinking a steel/aluminium structure won't get mould/fungus growing on surfaces if the location is humid and warm. Air movement will assist a lot in reducing what can grow on the surfaces Though lots of air and locking it up can be problematic...
Thanks XR500, yeah I did consider that,
I also compared it to some other options but they were worse off or not viable.
Also I would do your research especially before buying from a seller with only 2 feedbacks. Cabins seem to be a favorite thing to sell among conmen
That looks as though it's been chopped out of a shipping container. Maybe that's just for logistics reasons, or maybe it was.
"We own cabin materials factory in China, we guarantee cabin quality and the best price." - not exactly sure what cabin material encompasses, but >90% of stuff out of china that isn't branded is a) garbage and b) poorly QC'd garbage.
I have assembled one chinese flat-pack, went up easy enough if you know what you're doing, and have scaffold. I could imagine it being a shitshow for a DIYer
The walls are ~SIP just, the shittiest lightweight steel you could get away with. Joinery all the same, lightweight, tacky, clunky, not smooth, would be surprised if it made it to 2 years and almost guarantee it's fucked by 5.
Massive toe-catcher at the bottom of sliding door. Just, hideous.
Not worth the money IMO.
Where are you building. I could maybe be of use.
I bought this as a kit set from a place in Levin.
It's in a very wet climate, all timber and ply construction and after 3 years no sign of deterioration. Stellar.
Attachment 233087
Looks awesome,could maybe do with centre post on your "meat rail" lol.
Ye spotted the slightly bow down.MDs centre post will fix bow.
Ryan is onto it. We looked at some cabin type structures on TM, and as soon as you started asking technical type questions, or pointing out shoddy work visible in the photos they shut up and were never seen again under that name on TM.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst
Thar's wee cottage look just the berries.:thumbsup:
I was looking at kitsets for use as extra workshop space and was keen on these guys
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...ing/4319212104
Identical size to a $4K 20 foot container, or a $6-8K insulated 20 foot container, minus the windows.
its not that hard to add windows to side of container and a ranch slider across the doorway inside the container doors..can still shut it up secure but when open light pours in. if you can get a sideloader or hiab truck onto site.....DIY and save some coin.
A mate got 3 of these kitset jobs in direct from China for around 5k each landed. We put them up in no time at all with a bit of help to lift the roof section on with a small hi-ab
His came with 60mm cool store type walls, double glazed windows and sliding doors as well as mozzy screens and laminate flooring.
A bit of extra silicone and some tweaks were used, and almost 4 years later they are still ok, apart from one door getting blown in/off during a major storm.
They are based around a twenty footer and even have eyes for connecting lifting gear or twist locks
theres some good antifungal/algal paint on products nowadays
couple blokes used marine antifouling up in the Daintree in the tropics
theres some good antifungal/algal paint on products nowadays
couple blokes used marine antifouling up in the Daintree in the tropics
You can get small vent unit thingies that the tiny home peoples use. You need them on the 20' container based designs as they are made from impervious stuff and all the condensation you breathe out has to go somewhere. What happens usually is the internal linings are permeable, so the moisture goes through them and hits the steel wall and stops and stays there which allows mould to form.
Yuck in a word.
What is wrong with just building a hut the way they have always been built - Timber poles and frame clad with corrugated iron. Plenty of airflow and no mould ?. I have a 15,000 or 18000 litre 'second grade' plastic water tank here to locate as a hut, following the design of the ones used in the high country and Antarctica
Those Turks looks great!Quote:
Originally Posted by Moa Hunter
For anyone who has not seen them heaps of info here https://mountainturk.org.nz/about-turks/
Materials $10600 + GST https://mountainturk.org.nz/about-turks/turk-materials/
Yeah, I've used the ones up in the Central Otago backcountry. Bloody brilliant setup :)
Theirs have the water tank right under the middle of the hut, so the hut protects your water supply from freezing.
They tried the Chinese diesel heater but in the end found the wee log burner to be better value, as the diesel heater needs 12 volts and the freezing conditions really hammer the battery capacity, even with solar panels. As they too get snow all over them and reduce the recharge to bugger all, if you are not there to keep them clean.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moa Hunter
I know someone who has one of these set up like that too....Condensation needs to be addressed with plenty of ventilation....they also need to be well secured as their weight is not enough to keep them in placce in wind....
Which is why the Turk version has a floor over a cavity, to be filled with ballast. 100mm layer of sand would anchor it pretty well I’d say.Quote:
Originally Posted by timattalon
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey NGNL, have you considered side opening containerQuote:
Originally Posted by No good names left
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...ing/4313279908
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...ing/4310318671
That would be orsum but unfortunately, I don't have that much spare time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Moa Hunter
it would take years by the time I finish building it.
Yup, couldn't agree more,Quote:
Originally Posted by timattalon
at first, I was considering a caravan but don't think it will stand the elements.
For the Turk they fly in 2.5 tonne of shingle for ballast and set the ply over that. This gives a hold down requirement of 2.5 tonne that I can work with without engaging an engineer. With our one I have run a steel cable twice around the tank through the lifting / hold down eyes in the tank to anchor off. The plan is to dig it in 200 mm and then use screw anchors as the hold down. The only downside is a step-down at the doorway. We will have more head roomQuote:
Originally Posted by MSL
