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Thread: Any fencers in the house?

  1. #1
    Member Beetroot's Avatar
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    Any fencers in the house?

    I am replacing some rooted post and rail fencing on my property, looks like the last guy gust used what ever fence posts and size rails they had lying about.
    Had spacing anywhere from 1.8m to 3.8m.

    Spoke to a fencer who highly recommended going with 2m spacing for the posts, otherwise the rails would warp and twist.
    But driving around I've seen a lot of fences with 3m spacing, and the rails look fine, some pretty old fences too.
    The rails on my (shitty old) fence were hardly warped with the 3.8m spacing amazingly.

    Asking for opinions, as obviously there is a cost saving with the wider spacing, but the wife likes the look of 3m spacing over 2m spacing of posts, so wants to go with that
    Stock will be kept of the fence with electric wires, so the only issue I see is the sun destroying them.

    Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
    Cheers

  2. #2
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    Just gave a mate a hand with the same type project. We went 2m for extra strength. He has a hot wire along back side of rails too. I think 'more is best'. Job done, walk away. Next to no extra cost, but I am a townie.

  3. #3
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    Im no fencer but old fences were made out of totara, new ones are what pine? pine always twist in my experience
    Biggun708 likes this.
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  4. #4
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    The older fences were made from quality timber. The timber rails post that you buy know are rubbish all the good timber is sent overseas. I wouldnt be putting my post any more then 2m centers max personally

  5. #5
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    Our fence is 2m spacing, 6m rails. Some are warped, hard enough to try and hold them straight with 2m spacing, 3m would be worse.
    I think our rails are 140 by 45. Half round posts.
    Biggun708 likes this.

  6. #6
    308
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    Wet wood sags badly so you can either dry your packet of rails before you start ( up on dunnage and filleted then tightly bound with truck tiedowns and dried out undercover for a month or so ) or build the whole thing and whack some offcuts as packers under the midpoint of each section, which is probably the easiest - after a couple of months they should be ok to knock out

    Also if you aren't looking at the rail side I run the rails just past the posts to minimise splitting and use either 100mm tek screws or 120mm bugle head hex drive purlin screw thingies, they are strong as fuck and the rails running past can be screwed/nailed into each other at the ends giving better bracing than only screwed into the posts

    if painting I always paint the rails before the palings go on to save time and palings can be painted in the garage out of the weather in batches if it's raing

    I recommend capping
    Last edited by 308; 09-07-2017 at 03:20 PM. Reason: clarity

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  8. #8
    Member Beetroot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 308 View Post
    Wet wood sags badly so you can either dry your packet of rails before you start ( up on dunnage and filleted then tightly bound with truck tiedowns and dried out undercover for a month or so ) or build the whole thing and whack some offcuts as packers under the midpoint of each section, which is probably the easiest - after a couple of months they should be ok to knock out

    Also if you aren't looking at the rail side I run the rails just past the posts to minimise splitting and use either 100mm tek screws or 120mm bugle head hex drive purlin screw thingies, they are strong as fuck and the rails running past can be screwed/nailed into each other at the ends giving better bracing than only screwed into the posts

    if painting I always paint the rails before the palings go on to save time and palings can be painted in the garage out of the weather in batches if it's raing

    I recommend capping
    Cheers, lots of advice there.
    I know what you mean by letting the wood dry, as the last project I did I let the timber dry as it was wet as, even after a few months of drying the timber still shrunk a lot.
    I think I'll pay the money and buy 150x50 structural timber, rather than the 140x50, as the non-structural 140mm stuff I've used was pretty poor quality.

    Would you definitely go for the 2m spacing over the 3m? Or if left to dry/braced you would be happy with 3m spacing?
    I would've thought that 3m would be a bad idea, but as I said I've seen quite a few fences around and they are holding up well.

  9. #9
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    even when you dry it it will move and twist at three meters even with no1 sg8 timber, been outside it will suck up the moisture all winter then want to do its own thing summer time. Ive seen rails pull away from post using 150mm tec screws
    Biggun708 likes this.

  10. #10
    GSP Mad Munsey's Avatar
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    Fence rails as a rule where either 4.8 or 5.4 so 2.4 or 2.7 centres . Concrete the posts in . Wasting your time ramming dirt in holes

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  11. #11
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    put the posts close together...as Munsey has said work out rail length and go from there,the added cost of a few more posts FAR outweighs the grief you will give yourself if you set them apart further and rails warp........if you do the maths it wont be many extra posts anyway.

  12. #12
    Member Marty Henry's Avatar
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    If you can sort the rail timber in the yard, biff anything that has brown pith showing really wide growth rings and spike knots over 30% of the board width. All of these will twist like a corkscrew. Choose tight growth rings,ideally vertical and youve got good stable wood. Local merchants dont like me doing this but I reckon for the price i expect good wood.
    Pointer and 308 like this.

  13. #13
    Member peril 787b's Avatar
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    My flatmate is a fencer and he says all the post and rail they do is at 1950 spacing. This is to get as close as possible to 2 metre spacing, but some rails fall short of the 6m mark, so it allows for that.

  14. #14
    GSP Mad Munsey's Avatar
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    Disclaimer. My fencing was many moons ago , 2 mts sound system better for 6 mtr rails

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  15. #15
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    the ones we did fencing where with round post rails 2.4m posts that where turned gives a good strong rail and don't twist like 6x2 rails .bore a 10 or 12mm hole centre of rail then holesaw and chip out for the rail to fit in post .fit a short bit of rebar into centre hole in first post then drive rail onto it then fit into next hole .then drive rebar through hole into first rail then put next rail onto rebar fitting into hole and so on.if posts are driven into the ground you will need to wedge the rails in otherwise dig elongated holes and move the posts to suit the rails.turned posts and rails give the best finish.

 

 

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