Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Create Account now to join.
  • Login:

Welcome to the NZ Hunting and Shooting Forums.

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.

Alpine Terminator


User Tag List

+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 14 of 14
Like Tree8Likes
  • 2 Post By mikee
  • 1 Post By berg243
  • 3 Post By berg243
  • 1 Post By kukuwai
  • 1 Post By chainsaw

Thread: Establishing Lawn from scratch

  1. #1
    Official Cheese Shaman Spanners's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Wellington
    Posts
    6,061

    Establishing Lawn from scratch

    Someone here does this for a job but canít remember who...

    Got 4000m2 to establish into a nice lawn.
    Whatís the best way to go about it?
    Kill the lot off with spray then bring in clean top soil and seed it, or just seed?
    Chemicals, fertilizer etc start stockpiling?
    Iíll prob make a spray boom up for the quad and tow a spreader


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Western BoP
    Posts
    1,765
    Shoot every bird that overflies your property, kill off every blade of grass in a 2-hectare radius around your property and then worry about the rest of it. I tried a couple of years ago, sprayed out, rotary hoe'd it, ferted and reseeded and got a beautiful lawn for six months. Now totally covered in flatweeds and roundweeds, dandelion, catspaw, cape daisy etc. Now every year I go around and spot spray out everything with around 60L of spray - I don't really subscribe to the carpet spray technique as I prefer a bit of a mix of species due to everything dying off in Summer droughts. What we are fighting is birds pooing seeds as they fly over and wind-blown seeds from the neighbours places.

    But if you are mad keen, the first thing to do is assess what you have - if there is a heap of dead grass 'thatch' built up on top of the dirt you need to deal to that (google dethatching/scarifying) and then look at the compaction/aeration of the soil and deal to that (you'll either need to get someone in or hire the gear for the size you're talking). Ph check it for correct acidity and correct that, then remove anything that isn't desirable over a couple of growing seasons (takes a couple to be sure you've got all the undesirable 'dormant' seeds). Fert up and reseed at the required rate - I'd look at either spray application or the mini-drill stuff just to keep the birds off it (see line #1). And, beer. Lots of beer. This is one of those things that you really need to be committed to your lawn (either to do the work to keep a lawn looking mint or chucked in somewhere for thinking about undertaking it!). The pro's if they are doing things right will deal to it by bombing the thing with heaps of broad-spectrum long acting weedkillers and sell you a maintenance contract to keep on top of all the crap weeds, and there's a reason they charge what they do!

  3. #3
    Member mikee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Nelson, New Zealand
    Posts
    7,063
    concrete it!!
    ANOTHERHUNTER and Tommy like this.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Porirua
    Posts
    393
    Name:  A170A3B4-31BB-48F5-95F1-C9305D9C226A.jpeg
Views: 166
Size:  1.07 MB
    I wanted some lawn in time for Christmas, paid $500.00 for 50m of ready lawn. Rolled it out onto clay in one long evening and It is still looking great. Very expensive and it rained all day and never got used. No help to you I know but thought I’d add my experience.
    Remember the 7 ďPĒs; Pryor Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance.

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    christchurch
    Posts
    5,718
    one piece of advice avoid evergreen landscapers !!!

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    North Shore Auck
    Posts
    265
    4000m2 is a big area you would need machinery to do that , the best bet would be a Contractor who has the gear . Do not under any circumstance use a " Landscaper " , you need someone with Turf experience .
    The first thing to realize is that it will not be a one shot wonder , there will be on going maintenance . So do you just want something green and nice , or at the other end a bowling green ? .

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    southland
    Posts
    2,900
    spray off let it die then if you have time wait a few weeks then spray any regrowth .if you can borrow a tractor and hoe work over several times and leave for a couple weeks spray off any new growth rework with hoe. horticultural hoe is better than a agricultarul hoe ,has more tines and gives a better tilth . borrow or buy a set of drag harrows or next best thing is a mesh farm gate .harrows are easier, tined ones better than chain ones. ride on lawn mower or small quad and hook on harrow and start levelling have a place where you can dump any turf pulled up .takes a while to get good finish lawn should firm up with harrows add some weight after a few full passes and once turf stop coming up turn harrows over if they have spikes and add more weight but not too much that what you are using starts spinning wheels or leaving ruts. last big lawn I did I ued gator3 seed from farmlands ( 3 acres ) it is a turf grass like what is used on some sports fields .450kgs for the 3 acres fire it on with a bike spreader then use a light mesh gate or piece of reinforcing mesh to lightly cover seed then water as needed. good luck as the saying goes with seeding the ground is ready when the ground is right have taken 4 months to do a lawn due to weed and grass regrowth and weather not being good to get ground into shape.
    kukuwai likes this.

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    North Canterbury
    Posts
    949
    If it is covered in tag graze it off clean with a mob of borrowed sheep - right now might be a problem to borrow ewes but maybe some store lambs. Any way you do it get it clean. Let it freshen a week then spray out with a mix of Glyphosate and Granstar 2ltrs of Glyphosate 360 and 20 grams ( equivalent to 35 millilitres of granules) of Granstar. after two weeks give it a tickle with a tractor and maxitill and leave it until early spring by which time the thatch and roots will have rotted down and most of the weed seed in the soil will have germinated and can be sprayed out. Photo please Spanners
    'Bother' said Pooh, as he chambered another round ...

  9. #9
    Member Marty Henry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Tararua
    Posts
    3,203
    Flatweeds and clover can be dealt to with versatil mixed with roundup. The big issue is rogue grass seed especially ryegrass that will be still in the soil. That can make mowing a twice a week job in spring and autumn. The spray wait and respray works but takes time which you dont have before it gets too wet.
    The better option might be to find out if like browntop the grass you intend using is resistant to metsulfuron (eg dupont answer). Sprayout wiyh roundup and versatil, work up as stated above and in spring give it a tickle with answer to get rid if flatweeds clover and ryegrass.
    If we are regrassing paddocks we always try a crop as a break to get rid of most of the old grass seed before the new grass goes in.
    However I suspect an acre of kale will get all the vegetarians in the district poaching in your paddock. You will also discover if there are any deer in the neighbourhood with this.
    Sounds like a winter of mud possibly awaits outside the front door.
    Last edited by Marty Henry; 30-03-2019 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Added something useful

  10. #10
    Official Cheese Shaman Spanners's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Wellington
    Posts
    6,061
    Cheers guys
    Will prob make a start on it in a months time and nuke it all and turn it over it in anticipation for spring seeding.
    By that stage the build should be all but finished on the outside


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Tasman bay NZ
    Posts
    617
    @Spanners

    Cheers for the thread....I'm in the same boat, surrounded by clay and need to get some grass growing b4 winter. Two kids and a dog make a bloody big mess in the wet clay

    I'm thinking a good coat of gypsum b4 topsoil.

    Ill be keeping an eye on peoples advice.





    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    southland
    Posts
    2,900
    @kukuwai for yours I would spread a layer of topsoil about 50mm to 100mm thick over the clay with lime as well at the rate of 2 ton of lime to the acre then work up with a rotary hoe to a depth of 100mm into the clay then level for finish you want .take a third of your chosen seed apply it then work in with the hoe to a depth of about 30mm relevel then apply the rest of the seed and lightly harrow in. water as needed and if possible add a liquid fert to the watering .water deeply several times rather than lightly watering often. you will need to research for what seed will suit your climate and what growth pattern and use you need. last few I have done have been with a seed called gator3 from farmlands it was the same as used on carisbrook rugby grounds. as a heads up lawn seed needs applied at about 120kgs per acre to get a good thick lawn and keep weeds down.
    Spanners, Maca49 and kukuwai like this.

  13. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Tasman bay NZ
    Posts
    617
    Quote Originally Posted by berg243 View Post
    @kukuwai for yours I would spread a layer of topsoil about 50mm to 100mm thick over the clay with lime as well at the rate of 2 ton of lime to the acre then work up with a rotary hoe to a depth of 100mm into the clay then level for finish you want .take a third of your chosen seed apply it then work in with the hoe to a depth of about 30mm relevel then apply the rest of the seed and lightly harrow in. water as needed and if possible add a liquid fert to the watering .water deeply several times rather than lightly watering often. you will need to research for what seed will suit your climate and what growth pattern and use you need. last few I have done have been with a seed called gator3 from farmlands it was the same as used on carisbrook rugby grounds. as a heads up lawn seed needs applied at about 120kgs per acre to get a good thick lawn and keep weeds down.
    Cheers mate, that's bloody great advice

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  14. #14
    Member chainsaw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Silverdale
    Posts
    2,346
    First you need several truck loads of manure ..... try Jacinda, Winston or Eugenie, they seem to have access to never ending quantities
    Ingrid 51 likes this.

 

 

Similar Threads

  1. Lawn mowers
    By jakewire in forum Off topic
    Replies: 33
    Last Post: 24-02-2019, 05:29 PM
  2. Starting from scratch
    By Ryan_Songhurst in forum Reloading and Ballistics
    Replies: 55
    Last Post: 23-09-2017, 09:09 PM
  3. VZ33 Mauser stock from scratch...
    By FRST in forum Projects and Home Builds
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 05-07-2015, 04:20 PM
  4. Lawn Mower repairs
    By sniper80 in forum Off topic
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 31-01-2015, 02:48 PM
  5. Nut grass /Nut sedge in lawn
    By GWH in forum Off topic
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 22-11-2014, 08:37 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Welcome to NZ Hunting and Shooting Forums! We see you're new here, or arn't logged in. Create an account, and Login for full access including our FREE BUY and SELL section Register NOW!!