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Thread: Heat transfer options

  1. #1
    Sako & Anshultz!! Sako 243's Avatar
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    Heat transfer options

    Hi guys,

    I have just had a fire place installed and we're looking for heat transfer options. I work in so many places where they have installed the cheaper DIY kits that scream like a 737 taking off when running!!

    In our first house back early 2000's, we had a contractor come in and design a system specifically for our home. It was almost silent (Maybe hear a faint hum in the middle of the night when there was no other sounds) Can't remember his business name. I think his name was Neville and Olive and I can't recall his surname. Don't know if he still operates. But he had been doing these well before DVS and HRV came along and it showed.

    Does anyone know anyone in the Manawatu that they can recommend?

    Otherwise, I'm not afraid to do a DIY option, but not buying a kit, rather sourcing the right fan, buying ducting, grills and getting my sparky to hook it up once installed.

    What fan is best? Axial, vortex, centrifugal 90 or 180 degrees?

    I can find ducting supplies for both the HVAC and Greenhouse/hydroponic industries.

    Cheers, John

  2. #2
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    you can buy most ventilation gear from any electrical wholesaler, the less bends you have the better and make sure the fan is hung rather that solidly mounting it to roof trusses as it will reduce noise. forget those DVS units, a total rip off, turned mine off and run a dehumidifier instead.
    Munsey, 25/08IMP and Steve123 like this.

  3. #3
    Member stretch's Avatar
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    My Dad and I did a DIY heat transfer a couple of years ago. Bought bits piecemeal off Trademe in the months prior. Most of the outset stuff is 150mm ducting. We went with 200 or 250mm, and bought a fan to suit. Larger diameter fan and ducting means the fan spins at a lower RPM to move the same volume of air as a 150mm fan would need to. This makes the system very quiet.

    We suspended the fan in the middle of a truss with multiple (talking dozen +) bungy cords to damp out any vibration from the fan. This makes it even quieter.

    The fan is so grunty, that the first time I turned it on and cranked it right up, it overpowered the fireplace and sucked air back down the chimney. Smoke filled the lounge for a few seconds before I figured out when was happening. All the exterior doors and windows were closed, making the house pretty airtight. When I turned on the fan and closed the hallway door, the fan sucked the air out of the lounge, and with the hallway door closed, the only way for pressure to equalise was for outside air to come down the chimney!

    Important lesson: make sure you have a return path for the air, to cancel out any pressure difference. Either have a window slightly open in the room air is being taken from, or leave the hallway door(s) open slightly, so the pumped air can return from the bedrooms.

    Other than that, it's and awesome system. We flagged using a thermostat at all. Just use a special dimmer switch to adjust he fan speed. On that note - we were advised a regular light dimmer switch would be unsuitable for controlling the fan, as you need a dimmer with a capacitor in it. Something to do with not pumping full current into the fan when it's stationary. Capacitor allows it to get up to speed first, without burning it out. Or something like that...

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  4. #4
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    There is a very good brand called Heat Trans I think bunnies or M10 sell them. go for the 3 room kit which has the bigger motor with a 3 speed fan awesome units don't get the Weiss ones they are crap.😠

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  5. #5
    Sako & Anshultz!! Sako 243's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stretch View Post
    My Dad and I did a DIY heat transfer a couple of years ago. Bought bits piecemeal off Trademe in the months prior. Most of the outset stuff is 150mm ducting. We went with 200 or 250mm, and bought a fan to suit. Larger diameter fan and ducting means the fan spins at a lower RPM to move the same volume of air as a 150mm fan would need to. This makes the system very quiet.

    We suspended the fan in the middle of a truss with multiple (talking dozen +) bungy cords to damp out any vibration from the fan. This makes it even quieter.

    The fan is so grunty, that the first time I turned it on and cranked it right up, it overpowered the fireplace and sucked air back down the chimney. Smoke filled the lounge for a few seconds before I figured out when was happening. All the exterior doors and windows were closed, making the house pretty airtight. When I turned on the fan and closed the hallway door, the fan sucked the air out of the lounge, and with the hallway door closed, the only way for pressure to equalise was for outside air to come down the chimney!

    Important lesson: make sure you have a return path for the air, to cancel out any pressure difference. Either have a window slightly open in the room air is being taken from, or leave the hallway door(s) open slightly, so the pumped air can return from the bedrooms.

    Other than that, it's and awesome system. We flagged using a thermostat at all. Just use a special dimmer switch to adjust he fan speed. On that note - we were advised a regular light dimmer switch would be unsuitable for controlling the fan, as you need a dimmer with a capacitor in it. Something to do with not pumping full current into the fan when it's stationary. Capacitor allows it to get up to speed first, without burning it out. Or something like that...

    Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
    Thanks Stretch. I tend to over build and over power everything I do, and was thinking in terms of 250mm feed to fan and 200ms feed to the rooms. I had a grunty 250mm in line centrifugal fan for a concept years ago... I think my sparky back then still has it but he's sure he hasn't
    I also wanted to use a dimmer option to vary the speed so that's good to know about the capacitor thing.
    Smooth Air sell R1.0 insulated ducting for what appears to be the most reasonable price. R0.6 is naturally cheaper, but will the added heat loss be noticeable?

    John

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    Go and see Dara at Norlings in Cuba street, if you find some thing you can talk to me re order number. Tell him Mount Rewinds Account
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  7. #7
    If your not fast your last Shootm's Avatar
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    We put in a 3 room system and found the closest room was good but the other two had little difference mainly due to distance. Looking at putting in a single room system in the house we are in now and having the outlet coming out at the end of the hallway. There are two bedroom doors at end of hallway.

    Thoughts?

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  8. #8
    Member northdude's Avatar
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    single level or multi level house

  9. #9
    GSP Mad Munsey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shootm View Post
    We put in a 3 room system and found the closest room was good but the other two had little difference mainly due to distance. Looking at putting in a single room system in the house we are in now and having the outlet coming out at the end of the hallway. There are two bedroom doors at end of hallway.

    Thoughts?
    I installed quite a few when I was installing Log fires . My thoughts are, go Three room as you can always close the one(s) not in use . Or just use all three , skin temp is something like 25 deg and the air temp blowing out of unit may be only say 20 , it feels cool on the skin but its warming room to perfect temp . Also its putting positive pressure into room , so no drafts coming in , and no condensation . Even if you have to supplement heat in a room ,its way easier and cheeper as the room is dry etc .
    mikee likes this.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sako 243 View Post
    Thanks Stretch. I tend to over build and over power everything I do, and was thinking in terms of 250mm feed to fan and 200ms feed to the rooms. I had a grunty 250mm in line centrifugal fan for a concept years ago... I think my sparky back then still has it but he's sure he hasn't
    I also wanted to use a dimmer option to vary the speed so that's good to know about the capacitor thing.
    Smooth Air sell R1.0 insulated ducting for what appears to be the most reasonable price. R0.6 is naturally cheaper, but will the added heat loss be noticeable?

    John
    its not really a dimmer with a capacitor, you can buy a proper motor control unit that fits into a standard wall plate. last one i saw was made by schneider electrical (formerly pdl)

  11. #11
    Lovin Facebook for hunters kiwijames's Avatar
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    Heat transfer options

    Quote Originally Posted by Shootm View Post
    We put in a 3 room system and found the closest room was good but the other two had little difference mainly due to distance. Looking at putting in a single room system in the house we are in now and having the outlet coming out at the end of the hallway. There are two bedroom doors at end of hallway.

    Thoughts?
    Air will always take the path of least resistance. The near room is the easy route so all the air goes there. You need dampers in the duct or diffusers that can be trimmed.
    The Universe is a cruel, uncaring void. The key to being happy isn't a search for meaning. It's to just keep yourself busy with unimportant nonsense, and eventually, you'll be dead. -Mr Peanutbutter

  12. #12
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    Tell me how the magic works again? Air from the ceiling cavity is filtered and blown into the rooms below? Hot in summer, freezing in winter, da that's the wrong way around? How does it work? Convince me and I might put one in!
    Shearer and 25/08IMP like this.
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  13. #13
    Member stretch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maca49 View Post
    Tell me how the magic works again? Air from the ceiling cavity is filtered and blown into the rooms below? Hot in summer, freezing in winter, da that's the wrong way around? How does it work? Convince me and I might put one in!
    Fan in ceiling space sucks air from an inlet in your lounge, where the fireplace is, and pumps it to any number of outlets in the bedrooms. No air from the ceiling cavity is used - that is HRV, a completely different philosophy.


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    Oh that's a different magic--- one with logic!
    Boom, cough,cough,cough

 

 

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