6.5 question

Hi all,

I have both a 6.5 creedmoor and more recently a 6.5 prc.

What I absolutely love about the creedmoor is it's so gentle to shoot I can see my shots hit the target which I find very helpful especially when hunting on my own.

I purchased the prc to be able to shoot further out whilst maintaining an ethical amount of energy on target compared to the creedmoor. (I know what you're thinking, only 200fps more right although my creedmoor is short 18" barrel and the prc is 24" so more like 400fps different) . What I'm not enjoying with the prc is I can't see my shots hit target due to slight increase in recoil. The prc is running a hardy suppressor.

Is there a superior suppressor out there to reduce recoil or a muzzle brake that's more effective?

Thanks in advance.

What rifle you running there Tim ?

I take it that the PRC is your tops / open country gun, if so then ditch the suppressor, while they reduce noise they also add weight in length. For me on a LR rifle they're just a pain n the arse ( yes you can screw em on before you shoot but phurrfffttt to that fuck around ) for true recoil reduction get a ported brake, a Terminator or the like, they also have other benefits other than just reducing recoil, they defuse the shot behind & around you ( the sound from a suppressor still comes out the front ) they don't fuk up the length or balance of ya gun & you can unscrew it for bush hunting with out changing the POI

Biggest thing to remember when using a brake is to always have some plugs easily accessible, I use the soft rubber ones on a string & have em in a pocket on my bino bivy you can also put round your neck if needed in a hurry

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Originally Posted by Philipo

What rifle you running there Tim ?

I take it that the PRC is your tops / open country gun, if so then ditch the suppressor, while they reduce noise they also add weight in length. For me on a LR rifle they're just a pain n the arse ( yes you can screw em on before you shoot but phurrfffttt to that fuck around ) for true recoil reduction get a ported brake, a Terminator or the like, they also have other benefits other than just reducing recoil, they defuse the shot behind & around you ( the sound from a suppressor still comes out the front ) they don't fuk up the length or balance of ya gun & you can unscrew it for bush hunting with out changing the POI

Biggest thing to remember when using a brake is to always have some plugs easily accessible, I use the soft rubber ones on a string & have em in a pocket on my bino bivy you can also put round your neck if needed in a hurry

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Agree 100% only thing I would add is make sure you're mates with you have ear protection too or are aware your taking a shot so they can block their ears :yaeh am not durnk:

Agree with Philipo, I have 260 that’s 16 with a can and prc that’s 24 which I use.
I hunt by myself with my dog most of the time and added the prc to extend my range capacity .
. Prc has thread protector on and taped and is usually strapped to my pac. If I hit some hot sign I’ll remove it and shoot as is. If getting set up on a face etc, I’ll screw can on and shoot. I also have brake for the prc but can’t use it with the dog although it’s recoil reduction is superior to the can.Hearing protection for a brake is super important and I’m paying the price now for being too casual about it and constantly can hear Cicadas in my left ear , it’s a fucker.
Also if the prc is moving after firing dial your magnification back as if you can’t see your shot it’s a waste of time by yourself.

I agree with the above but will also put out there maybe some work on form/natural point of aim and controlling recoil may help? A different stock shape perhaps?
My PRC is fairly light and suppressed.
If I'm not on my game it will jump off target but if I have put the effort into getting set up properly I can spot my own shots.
It's not a big recoiling cartridge.

I add weight to my stocks when wanting to reduce recoil, I like shooting suppressor on so that’s how I get around it. Yes you end up carrying more weight but something has to give. Lead shot and resin works well. I shoot a 6.5/06ai 147eldm doing 3180. So in theory that similar to the PRC. Good stock design and a limb saver helps too

Light rifles require a much better technique tp shoot well. You really have to pay attention. If you are only holding the stock /shooting 1 handed then its difficult. Try holding the forend properly. I had a light 6.5saum and if you didnt do this the gun would most definitely "jump". Same as my current light 300wsm.
I used to use a brake but they are not for me. Nasty evil things but despite my feelings regarding the company Terminator brakes are among the very best out there if you must have one.

Whats your shooting technique like? Definitely some gains to having proper form.

I have also changed when shooting prone to having one hand on top of the scope on my lighter rifles and find this works amazing for stopping the jump and can spot my shots much easier.

I can spot my shots with the PRC, but it's braked. I carry a couple of sets of ear plugs in a stock pack, with spare ammo etc.

I run a DPT magnum suppressor on my PRC and find it fine for spotting my shots at 100yds at least.

What thread and where in canterbury are you? I have both a 14x1 and 15x1 DPT magnum you're welcome to try out.

I've got a hardy muzzle break in 14x1 you can have for $200
Only about 20 ish shots though it.

Regarding earplugs, if the re-usable type are bought that have the string-like plastic tube linking them this can be looped through the crown of your hat so that they are always ready. I have two hats with plugs and I use plugs for everything - lawnmowing, grinding, chainsawing etc etc so it is now second nature to use them shooting. They sit on the head not hanging down like Ausi fly corks, the plastic link doesnt tangle

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Originally Posted by Philipo

What rifle you running there Tim ?

I take it that the PRC is your tops / open country gun, if so then ditch the suppressor, while they reduce noise they also add weight in length. For me on a LR rifle they're just a pain n the arse ( yes you can screw em on before you shoot but phurrfffttt to that fuck around ) for true recoil reduction get a ported brake, a Terminator or the like, they also have other benefits other than just reducing recoil, they defuse the shot behind & around you ( the sound from a suppressor still comes out the front ) they don't fuk up the length or balance of ya gun & you can unscrew it for bush hunting with out changing the POI

Biggest thing to remember when using a brake is to always have some plugs easily accessible, I use the soft rubber ones on a string & have em in a pocket on my bino bivy you can also put round your neck if needed in a hurry

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Thanks for the reply Philipo. It's a Tikka t3x. I appreciate the muzzle brake advice and agree carrying around a magnum suppressor on the end of a full length barrel is a pain in the ass especially on a slog up to the tops. It came with a factory muzzle brake so I'll give it a go this weekend and see if I notice any difference between that and the suppressor, but I imagine the Tikka brake is more of a sales gimmick

It's not so much a gimmick as it is a compromise. They're sleek to match the barrel profile and they're radial which is OK for reducing muzzle flip but less so purely for recoil reduction. If you want maximum recoil reduction, make the rifle heavier and install a directional brake. The shape of the factory tikka stocks doesn't do them any favours either.

Maybe a bigger suppressor will reduce recoil a touch. But probably more because of the extra weight than the design, because all the gas is still venting forward. And whether this is enough of a difference to really be able to feel it... dunno.

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Originally Posted by Gkp

I've got a hardy muzzle break in 14x1 you can have for $200
Only about 20 ish shots though it.

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Appreciate the offer there Gkp. I may get back to you in a couple of weeks. Cheers

After reading a few comments regarding my shooting technique I feel as though I do need to spend sometime looking into it. I usually do shoot one handed prone and like the comment regarding having one hand on the scope so I'll give that a go this weekend.

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Originally Posted by mark_k

I run a DPT magnum suppressor on my PRC and find it fine for spotting my shots at 100yds at least.

What thread and where in canterbury are you? I have both a 14x1 and 15x1 DPT magnum you're welcome to try out.

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Hi Mark thanks so much for the offer. I'll take you up on that and be in touch in the next week or two. Cheers

I have been using an A-tec H2 suppressor for a while on a 6.5 creedmoor, you can fit a brake on it at the end. It is hard to estimate but I'd say it probably reduced the remaining recoil by more than a third vs without the brake module. This suppressor has a 1/4 turn lock so only fit it when ready. I will test it soon on a 7mm PRC.

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Originally Posted by dannyb

Agree 100% only thing I would add is make sure you're mates with you have ear protection too or are aware your taking a shot so they can block their ears :yaeh am not durnk:

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Sound advice
My bino bag sports about 10 pairs of cheap 3M plugs for
Anybody with me even with the can i kike muffs or plugs

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Originally Posted by TimC

Appreciate the offer there Gkp. I may get back to you in a couple of weeks. Cheers

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No worries mate. It certainly helps you spot the shots but no good to me as I hunt with a dog

which Hardy suppressor are you running? With mine I do notice the difference between the compact (Gen V & VI) and the longer stealth.
I've never used the larger magnum ones, but then I'm not shooting magnum cartridges.
I would doubt you will find anything significantly better than the Hardy in a similar sized envelop.
Obviously with a DPT you could add in a whole lot more baffles but that's length & mass.
Technique is important, with my 24" barrel 243 i can be lazy and it still shoots accurately while I find my 358win lever action a real challenge to shoot as how I hold it and what I'm resting on makes a difference. Repeatable hold, tension and position.
Z