I'd like to hear feedback re this product. It certainly does remove a heap of copper as per the rags coming out vivid blue without the gagging ammonia fumes - however.... if left on the surface of said stainless firearm, as per the can-do guide, it seems to turn a lovely brown, leaving patches of brown all through the breech etc... freaked when I saw this...! Doesnt move easy either.... End up pulling a patch of Inox through to remove the Bore tech.....
It's a top product, great having the blue indicator giving feedback on the cleaning progress. Have used liters of it, no problems.
Oh dont get me wrong - it works great - just wondering if anyone else has the issue with the brown spots when left during storage etc.. noticed mostly inside receiver where fat fingers cant quite mop it up as patch is pulled thru...
No brown spots have I seen.
I'm wondering if the brown spots are indicating residue of something not removed in the initial clean
I used to use eliminator it was really good, now I use Kg12 which seems to be excellent but your patches dont turn blue so you dont know when all the copper has been removed unless you use a bore light.I used to get marks from using eliminator in my vanguard so I changed to m-pro7 bore gel from hoppes 9 to remove carbon and powder residue first then patch dry then used eliminator finished off with hoppes oil. No marks after that.
Try another great product called Autosol. Steve Blenkarne the gunsmith from years ago rec'd it .Great for thorough cleaning of your bore. We use the kiwi version called kero when want to get job done quickly. Wipe bore dry after a good soak.
The boretech eliminators ability to show you how much copper is coming out is it's second most important ability, you build up a picture over time of your barrels copper fouling and it's 'running in' process.
Using a cleaner that can't show you how much copper is in there/being removed leaves you guessing. Or at best relying on how much copper you can 'see'
You can't tell how thick the remaining copper is, you can only see it's surface.
Copper wash is of obvious thickness, copper streaks on top of the lands also, but streaks in the lands up in the corners are always of unknown buildup thickness.
Deep blue patches show that very heavy deposits are being removed and depending on round count between cleanings can indicate a heavy fouling barrel and a source of inaccuracy until run in. Lighter blue and your starting to get somewhere.
Sure KG is slightly faster, perhaps 2 patches faster on a medium fouled barrel, but it hasn't told you what's going on with your rifle that you might be tuning for ultimate accuracy.
Then when you get no blue at all dry that barrel out and lube with a fine film of kroil or other penetrating oil, and you are good to go.
The boretech eliminator stuff is great. I use it on my stainless model 700. I've never had it leave brown patches.
You do have to make sure you don't get it down in your trigger or safety or anything as it does turn into a sort of sticky/gunk that blocks things up and is really hard to get off.
I use it , never had a problem, mind you i've never left it on the surface, just in the bore for awhile.
No brown patches (mange?) either. I use Eliminator and their Cu solvent and their Moly Magic (useless).
Most of my guns are SS.
Your gun is not a Kimber by chance?
Howa 1500 stainless...Quote:
Originally Posted by zimmer
The elimanater is water based, I'd be reluctant to leave it sitting in my rifles bore for extended periods of time. When I used it I always patched it dry then put a wet patch of inox down the bore to finish.
I now use KG's and it would be 10x faster at getting the job done.
kj
I used it on a Howa SS as per instructions and it did its best to destroy a new new rifle, it caused astounding rust marks on everything it touched specifically the bore. Ive not used it since.
Ive since contacted Bore tech and they assure me that the marks are due to the wonderful properties, absorbing moisture... Hmmm.... I quote....Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy Tempest
Thank you for contacting us.
The brown spots you are seeing should be dark brown in color and have a
sticky feeling.
This is the rust preventative in the Eliminator actually doing its job.
When moister/humidity come in contact with the rust preventative, it
turns brown. If you do not want to see this, dry patch the area and
apply an oil to prevent rust and corrosion.
Please let us know if you have any questions.
Thank you,
Customer Service
Bore Tech, Inc.
100 Emlen Way, Ste # 108
Telford, Pa 18969 USA
P: 215-799-2500 x14
F: 215-799-2515
Welcome to Bore Tech Inc
Yeah, I've had the brown residue left over from boretech. Its brilliant for removing copper fouling. As the makers say, its not rust.
I flush the barrel with meths after now, just to flush all the crap out. Now longer see the residue.
I use Autosol very sparingly and then only to remove the carbon ring I get just fwd of the chamber when I use W760 powder. That black mark you get on the patch for ever and ever when cleaning with Autosol is parent metal from your bore. I would generally use JB's first b4 Autosol.Quote:
Originally Posted by TeRei
I got some KG12 from Aus many several years ago b4 it was available in NZ. I was not that impressed with it. Sure all the tests say it is better than Boretech but it is shite to use - runs off your patches like mad, plus leaves no visible evidence that it is doing its job. When using it I had to get the borescope out and check all of the time. Then one of the plastic bottles sprung a wee leak at its base and drained itself into the bottom of the gun cupboard. Fark all gone. I reverted to Boretech Eleminator and Cu solvent, and use them along side bore foam. Neutralise any of them before going to a different type using either meths or CRC Brakleen and never store the guns with solvent in them despite what the manufacturers say.
I got same problem same rifle (a Howa heavy barrel in .308) only 2 or 3 spots inside the action , brand new gun, i freak out but i'm calm now ;) removed those spots with my finger , after this experience i dry the bore and the action before storage and i get thru with a patch of WD40 waiting for a bottle of Eezox .Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasty Factory Trigger
First i tough is a kind of reaction with Hoppe's (my cleaning routine involve brake cleaner followed by Hoppe's and at the end Bore tech Eliminator) but now i got the "official" answer, thank you @Nasty Factory Trigger .
Regards
I use a rod guide so I don't drip it into the action. I'm too clumsy to use the oil port on the guide, just pop an oiled patch on the pointy jag. I only use a pull through in the hills and then just protective oil not powder or copper solvent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasty Factory Trigger
The worst problem with boretech is its watery and patches jam in the barrel. by the way you need special jags and brushes without copper to get the patches to come clean.
I dry patch the boretech out then use a preserving oil and dry patch that out too. The thin film of oil saves the bore rusting and I can shoot straight through it.
Thanks all for your feedback... i chose the Eliminator as the store person raved about it - seems I chose well - as I later discovered - rightly or wrongly - that Ammonia-based solvents can't be used in stainless steel due to etching...??
PerfectQuote:
Originally Posted by Tussock