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Yeah mate... great advice... seen it as high as 8 -10 inches depending on the ammo.. some rounds will climb faster in trajectory... I have a set of bore sight rounds... laser dots at 100 yds... bloody accurate
Quote...A quick trick we use for sighting in is get it spot on centre at 25 metres (not a bigger distance) then when it is, check what it is at 100m (should hopefully be about 1 or 2 inches high but hopefully centred above the centre of the target) Then 2 inches high at 100m should be fairly close to dead centre at 200m.
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This is an interesting subject,with regards to the info being proffered here ,and never really thought much about...I have a new rifle with a new scope,all brand new stuff.Ive always put my picaninny rails,scope mounts/rings etc on myself.....Looked at the fine details of various manufacturers,some give torque settings some don’t......have decided from the advice of others here to buy the torque tool (they are cheap here)and do it the methodical way as opposed to the” No8 wire,she,ll be right”method.......no offense....
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Sorry to hear about that laminate stock @Flyblown. Was it coming back to the same zero each time you reassembled it ?
I'd like to be able to take mine apart more often to clear out leaves water oil and stuff and perhaps a torque wrench would let me do that without rechecking by shooting each time.
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Once the laminate was compressed, and as it got worse, the rifle started to wander a bit. It wasn't that bad, but it was noticeable. It wasn't returning to battery properly, and I discovered after one long session flinging 180gr pills around that the bottom metal was slightly loose, and the top of the recoil lug was munched.
Since I fixed it up, its been a tack driver.
But the barrelled action is even better in the DPT chassis.
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Hmm
I've got a Howa 1500 in 7-08 and had the same issue. Stock screws came loose. Common issue with howa + hogue stock?
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Nope. They just need to be done up tight enough in the first place.
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What type of stock do you have on this rifle @Howa270
Here is the torque settings from Nathan Fosters book “The Practical Guide To Bolt Action Rifle Accurizing and Maintenance”
A good read and reference.
Attachment 102130
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Here’s the next page:)Attachment 102131
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The problem with Mr Foster’s numbers @Sideshow is that he doesn’t necessarily account for the material that the bottom metal is made from. For example a Tikka T3 is plastic with metal washers and I can attest to the fact that the plastic deforms well before you reach some of his recommended numbers. And in the case of the Howa the bottom metal is made from a relatively soft alloy and that also deforms and pushes into the bolt hole.
I have raised this with the odd little community over at Ballistic Studies... good couple of years ago or more I will see if I can find it.
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@Sideshow thanks for that, I have the houge stock so when I get a wrench I'll torque them to those numbers with some nail polish on the screws. I should only have to do it once or twice as I'm not planning to pull it apart very often.
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Add a light coating of grease to the under side of the action and barrel.
That should keep the rust away tile next year.
But once you have your torque rench you can take it out of the if you feel it’s gotten too wet.
I usual do it once a year unless it gets a heavy dose of rain.