Any negatives on the Calibre
Would it recycle in a Browning short Trac OK
What would be best load for hard hitting inside 150m on Reds with possibility of touch foliage on way to target
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Any negatives on the Calibre
Would it recycle in a Browning short Trac OK
What would be best load for hard hitting inside 150m on Reds with possibility of touch foliage on way to target
if sold on the .284 imitation 7mm calbre (not the real deal mighty .270)sub 150 yards it wont do anything a 7x57 wont...... with a hell of a lot more powder used ,to do so.
big fat round nose with plenty of exposed lead.
Inside 150m I'd go old school. 308 with a 180gr soft nose. If you want to jazz it up a bit a 9.3x62 with a 286gr projectile will smack em over.
@stugQuote:
Originally Posted by stug
:-))
You must have mental telepathy
I am only asking as I considering trading my 9.3x62 Custom Mauser on the above (think you know the one - cabinet Queen she is
I was actually going to go the line of a 308 nothing flash - to mount a Thermal Scope to and just to be used for that
I don't want to touch the Kimber Montana 7-08 setup so thought dedicate a hard hitter for the Pulsar Apex XD75
7wsm is a PITA to get brass for.
If starting from scratch a 7-300Wsm is much more sensible, built one on a Tikka a couple of weeks ago it goes very well :cool:
I would prob only use a couple of boxes a year Greg - I don't go to rangesQuote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg
I am more worried about recoil for the Apex - it should be OK and being a semi that can absorb some of the shock - but it can also rattle the optic too
Ammo is not cheap I see - 70$ a box thereabouts
Just go with 30-30 win, a bit of foliage won't bother it if mine did this below and still killed the deer
Attachment 90033
Ive been looking at heaps of calibres lately for potential candidates for my two projects.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarvo
Anything over 243 seems to start nudging the 50-70 mark and upto and over a hundy.
A 7-08 will do anything under 200m the WSM will do with alot less recoil and noise and I think you can get a short track in 7-08
270 wsm or 300 wsm would make more sense if it is to shoot only a couple of boxes per year.
But do you really need a magnum?
Sorry guys - youve not fully understood me
I have just done the deal anyway now - it was a Trade into my Mauser 9.3x62
So I getting a Short Trac 7mm WSM - full pic rail - heaps of ammo and a good dollop of cash
Buyer happy and I happy
Sad to loose the Mauser as it is a rare one - but to flash to use around here and I still have another Mauser in 257 Roberts to w~~k over (man only needs 1 for w~~nking :-)
Thanks
So its going scare the living bejesus out of the neighbors in middle of night thenQuote:
Originally Posted by Friwi
so back to your origonal ???2nd ??? question...what will be good sub 200 load for reds with a bit of scrub maybe in way......... Stug and myself have both said it in similar way...big fat heavy round nose/soft nose with heaps of lead at tip....the 180grn hornady in .308 has impressed as do 180 winchester factory big time... in .270 the 150-170 grn tick boxes for me,cant see 7mm being any different. if you are going to load it hot it will boot and will need harder pills to hold together...if not loading it hot (and sub 200yards why bother?) something softer would be great......thus my 7x57 comment...but you already know that owning a 7mm-08
Just feed it Precision Hunter with 162 eldx and your away laughing
ohh at 92$ a packet :omg:Quote:
Originally Posted by 300_BLK
Hope I don't take 30 to sight in Apex like I did last time with a Thermal - mind you it was on a Keltech 223 (pill sprayer)
I have 1/2 dozen packets coming with it - not sure what they are
As long as I can hit a cigarette packet size at 50m I happy (that's Winfield 25 pack too :)
If you’re hand loading I’d recommend 150 or 160 partitions for bush work
In my 7 SAUM I used 140gr accubonds for close range stuff (closest was just over 100 yds though). I didn't go heavier because of mag length/powder capacity issues. I used the 160 accubond in my 7mm rem mag, no magazine issues there.
For your 7 WSM I'd try a full copper 140-150gr of some sort as a bush load.
+1 for the Accubonds. Or another bush option & lower cost would be Sierra 160gn GK or the 170 RN prohunter.
Don't over complicate it. Whatever you use I'm betting if you can hit it, you will kill it.
Far too much hand wringing goes on about projectiles.
There are 3 sorts of hunter people: those who blame the bullet when they miss, those who blame the bullet if a deer runs after being hit, and those who just shrug and say "shit happens".
Sure, minimise the risks of losing or wounding a deer - but also minimise the risk of getting ulcers over it :)
and the forth type...who have such a plurry awesome hound they can cock up the shot and still bring home the venison!!!!
Hmmm, don’t really agree with you there @Tahr.... there are plenty of projectiles I’d avoid like the plague, primarily the tough bonded & locked ones and the staunch monolithics designed for heavy thick skinned game when my quarry is a thin skinned redskin hind or spiker.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
Too many times I’ve been with guys who’ve insisted on using something super tough and then shot it too far back and wondered why the hell it took off like a Lambo on nitrous... especially when shooting in the thick stuff like @Sarvo is talking about. Those are the ones that don’t get found and there’s long faces and I told you sos in the shed afterwards.
Gotta make an effort to match your pill to your game #not hard to do# easy in fact. There’s several cheap and proven all rounders like the ProHunters, GameKings, several of the Hornadys. You need a proper frangible fragementing pill in the woods IMO soemthing that will dump all the energy inside not run straight on through, when shot placement might be a bit iffy.
flyblown......how many were shot with fmj over the years...... I believe what Thar is trying to say is dont get all hung up and over think it. if its not at either end of spectrum eg silly hard or a varmint type it will be fine...and with either of those if you picked your shot it would go down fine...eg super hard..break both shoulders/super soft head-neck or crease ONLY....
your "shot it too far back" statement carries more weight than the projectile used.
Interesting reading
I won’t be using this setup in Bush - it will be night shooting with Thermal scope on rifle - hand held Thermal around neck
The country is regen non replanted pine blocks
With Thermal - you can see an animal (whatever distance but lets say 70m in my case) problem is with Thermal - you cannot see light scrub/tall grasses etc in front of animal - it virtually looks as the Deer or Pig is standing in open - but - often that is not the case
Example - see Deer in Thermal hand held - beauty - flick on Maxtoch and you see nothing - as its behind 4-6 foot of crappy regrowth
So ideally a projectile that is "less likely" to deflect off light scrub is what I want to try and end up with.
I know there is no guarantee with any projectile - but ideally find one that is least likely to deflect or dust it
well for what its worth I dont often poke shot through scrub into a deer BUT we had a big red hind below us at 50-60 yards with a bushy mingimingi right where her shoulder was I lined her up with .270 and waited,then thought to self "Im using 170 grn round nose speer WHF am I waiting for?" so squeezed off resulting in one very dead hind.
I see what you're saying, its a fair point for sure. When I put "too far back" afterwards I thought "that'll get some attention!" To me that means a maybe 2-4" behind the rear line of the leg, and a couple of inches or more over the top of the heart... a very common point of impact, somehow blokes seem to manage shooting deer there when they swear blind they aimed at the shoulder... Oftentimes they'll be a fair bit higher than that, especially if they're using a powerful cartridge off a bipod.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
You'll all know this of course I'm just having a bit of a cold wet rant after a shite day in the worst of it, and I've just discovered we've run out of beer. Gggrrrr. Anyway, with a hard bullet on our deer it'll go straight through the rear lungs or worse between the lungs and the liver if it somehow ends up way too far back... and the animal will run, often very far. With a fragmenting hunting bullet there'll likely be a lot more radial damage and in my experience at least they'll bleed out way faster, might make 30-40yds tops before they topple over.
I accept its one of those take it or leave it kind of statements I suppose. I'll own up to having a bit of a chip on my shoulder about blokes using hard "big game" bullets on fallow and meat reds, and causing untold bloody dramas, once they run 70-80+ yards down our way they're gone and they're helluva hard to find. Happened last month here, some supposedly top gun bloke (friend of an acquaintance grrr) insisted on using a Swift A Frame in .30-06.... anyway he shot at a very very fine fallow buck from a range he probably wasn't competent at , and it took off straight down into the worst of it, way below. He insisted it was a clean miss but his mate clearly heard the strike. We eventually found it by chance some several days later with the dogs about half a click from where it was shot, bullet passed right through directly above the heart by about 4". Exit wound wasn't much more that 1.5". Too rank by that time to have a look inside but at least we got the head. So yeah, horses for courses is the way I look at it, and you're right @mickeyduck its the bullets at the extreme end of the spectrum that you need to avoid....
if it comes in a yellow box it will be good......(must be the caveman in me I just love speers) havent found one of thier projectiles my rifles dont like and the preformance on game has impressed me no end.....
@Sarvo, I found that the old semi-auto BAR .308 I used for red skins in the Raukumaras was very effective, probably not a MOA shooter with even the best ammo but didn’t need to be. And seeing as how picking up the brass was a non-starter it got fed simple cheap soft points. I asked the rifle’s owner just now before I posted so I was 100% - Winchester Super X power points, 150gr, about $40 a box? Probably something that makes the aficionados cringe, makes their toes curl, but I would give the cheapest ammo you can find a test, cos like I say the BARs can have a bit of a mind of their own. For your application, do you need MOA accuracy out of a semi?
We used those Super X in horrible bush and a fair few feral beefs were taken with them too. I can guarantee there were times the vegetation got in the way, you could hear it. You can get them in 7mmWSM according to the Winchester website, but I do recall one of our mates saying he found it hard to track down cheap ammo for his WSM bolt gun and when he found some he would buy it all up!
The guy is throwing in 4 boxes of the Super XQuote:
Originally Posted by Flyblown
Another 4 of Winchester 150 Ballistic SilverTip - so I prob use the later for sighting in - as knowing me that will burn a box and half :-(
Also 100 New primed Brass and 50 used Brase with a set of Horny Dies
So - I might get someone to reload what the the Ballistic Gurus suggest above
Enjoyed all the feedback - as I am no ballistic knowledge base
Are barrels replaceable on Bars? I thought it wasn't straight forward. That would put me off buying one in a magnum calibre, I'd imagine if you were hard on it barrel life would be fairly short or at least considerably shorter than a 7-08 or .308. Worse case scenario if you are trigger happy and heat the thing up regularly after less than 1k rounds you could end up with a very spendy tomatoe stake unless you can find a clown to buy it with a high round count.... Plus it's an oddball shooter in that calibre not any easy thing to move on.... Triggers on Bars are pretty agricultural too without work, if they were the shit we'd all have one........
Barrels replaceable..yes. Expensive yes!! Looked at replacing one years ago. Basically double the cost of normal cos of the gas block. I’d imagine nothing’s changed since then...could be wrong though..?Quote:
Originally Posted by yerimaginaryM8
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As I see it under 170 mtr you don't need a lot of power / speed but you probably need them to go down quick as finding anything in scrub during the day is hard enough. Doing it at night would be real hard. Guess thats where Dogs and Thermal help.
Did not quite catch it but sounds like you have something sorted already.
Other wise I was thinking something like 30/30, 35 Rem, 338 fed or 358 win.
Personally I would stay away from 308 as thats too common (and just to all round practical).
Could also argue that the bullet selection for the 338 are a little tough.
358 is a reloaders option only but would suit the brief. Large round nose bullet more forgiving than most for shot placement.
Zq
Yes - all sortedQuote:
Originally Posted by ZQLewis
New (2 years old but unfired) Browning Short-Trac in 7mm WSM with Dies - heaps of new brass - 8 packets of ammo shipping both ways paid by owner
Traded i on my Custom 9.3x62 Mauser - also same value of above in cash my way
The Browning will be dedicated to a Apex XD75 Thermal scope
The Thermal might also get sighted in for .22
You can sight these Thermal Scopes in for 3 different rifles with an internal menu
I might also use it on a Mossberg Mariner 12g, if Pig numbers suddenly increase - but I think I can now keep a lid on them :-)
Browning Short-Trac Piccatinny Rail
Anyone know where I can get one - I think the standard BAR rail will fit also
Got a full length Weaver Rail with rife - but no good for Apex Thermal Scope mounting
Hi Greg,Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg
Is there much involved in making the brass? Is it just a case of necking down?
Scott
