Had a search through but nothing stood out.
Can we have all the tips, tricks and even links to helpful info here please.
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Had a search through but nothing stood out.
Can we have all the tips, tricks and even links to helpful info here please.
use a lighter for direction
yip good in the bush, meaning more for longer ranges. watching grass, trees etc but how to translate into speed.
Something I read on here ages ago and can not remember who posted it. A piece of white cotton taped to the muzzle end of your barrel it is light enough that the wind can move it and it works
Off something I just bookmarked :)Quote:
Tactile and Visual Indicators
0-1 MPH Wind imperceptible.
No grass or leaf movement.
Smoke rises straight up.
Mirage runs vertical.
1-2 MPH Cooling effect of wind may be noticed.
Light movement of grasses.
Only a few leaves on any given tree in motion.
Mirage begins to lean to 12:30.
3 MPH Wind pressure can be felt on bare arms.
Grasses obviously in motion.
All leaves on any given tree in light motion.
Mirage leans to 1:00-1:30.
4 MPH Wind pressure can be felt on face.
Small twigs bearing leaf clusters begin light motion.
Mirage leans to 1:30-2:00.
5 MPH Tips of smaller branches begin motion that hold the leaf limbs.
Mirage leans to 2:00-2:15.
6 MPH The trunk branches start to move. These are the heavy limbs holding the smaller branches.
Mirage leans to 2:15-2:30.
7 MPH Larger (trunk) limbs begin motion.
Young (softer) leaves begin to flip over on windy side of trees.
Mirage leans to 2:30.
8 MPH Tree tops are in light motion.
Mature leaves flip over on windy side of trees.
Mirage leans to 2:45.
9 MPH Tree tops show obvious movement.
Almost all leaves flip over.
Mirage leans to 2:45-3:00 and begins to run.
10 MPH Wind pressure can be felt against the body.
Tree tops show substantial movement.
Mirage runs slowly and parallel to ground.
11 MPH Mirage runs quickly along the ground, begins to break up.
12 MPH Wind pressure can be felt against the body.
Mirage runs very quickly in sheltered places, mostly broken up in exposed areas.
12-15 MPH Dust is raised.
Lighter debris moves around.
Mirage blows off completely in exposed areas.
15-20 MPH Dust clouds blow around.
Debris blows around.
Smaller tree trunks sway.
Major limbs on larger trees in constant motion.
20+ MPH Difficulty walking.
Larger tree trunks sway.
Go to longrangehunting.com and search for Shawn carlocks articles on reading wind. He has some great info.
Here is a wind scale reference card and diagram that I made. Sized to fit into the pocket of the stock pack on my LR rifle:
Attachment 31606Attachment 31607
Awesome mate cheers. Will be no good in Dannevirke mate, doesnt go up to 90mph :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Bryan
Generally I tape the barrel. If it is a breezy sort of a day I will put cotton on. On a still day I find I spend too much time watching the end of the barrel and not enough looking up trees for deer.
At times I wish I was still a smoker. That was by far the best way. Watching the smoke move through the trees
get a wind meter
I use a wind meter in conjunction with the chart, helps me to better learn wind strengths for those occasions when I don't have the wind meter with me. Same as having a rangefinder makes you better at estimating distances.Quote:
Originally Posted by scoped
Got one but as we know it only tells you the wind where you are standingQuote:
Originally Posted by scoped
There is a good section on @Norway DVD on grass movement to judge wind speed. nice and easy to remember. Perhaps he would be happy to post that segment up? Or you can borrow the DVD if you promise to be a good boy.
I would love to watch it mate. Im always good;) i have watched most of norways blogs. Im just interested in everyones methods.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barefoot
That will make a good starting point mate, I have found the rest will come more easily the more you practise shooting in the wind.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibo
I find it's more the wind angle at longer ranges that's harder to read rather than the speed.
Particularly with crossing gullies etc
As you no it blows a little bit where I hunt:)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The chart on the right that says 1/2 value. Does that work like lets say the wind is 10mph at 1.30 you'd put in in as 5mph?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan
I use a wind meter to get the reading where I am, look at the trees etc around me and then compare it to the target. Are the trees etc moving more or less? is the direction the same? The best bit of advice I got from Shawn Carlock ( Reading The Wind ) was that if the wind is blowing up a slope towards you it will lift the bullet. The reverse happens if blowing down a slope towards you. I had to use this shooting a pig at around 400yds. One of the best shots I've made, not the longest, but the most technical.
If you are reading off a table that only shows wind drift from a 90 degree wind then yes. If you are putting everything in to a ballisitc program like shooter then you would put in 10mph from 1.30 and it would do it for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Toby
Brads is onto it yes meter gives you a good idea but it all comes down to practice just make sure you write down the dope
I use the method of looking at the wind direction and gauge the strength of it by imagining how far a tissue would travel in 1" if I let it go. 1m? 5m? That metres-per-second speed translates well for me. But then I don't hunt, just shoot rabbits at a decent range.
Lots of practice and fast slippery bullets help a lot as well.
This is where magnums can have a big advantage, easy to adjust for drop but not so easy for wind.
Brian that card is magic will add that to my phone asap :)
The best method of successfully reading wind in the field is to shoot at extended ranges in the wind a lot... Infact I don't think there is any other option.
Target shooting with flags all the way to the target is another matter but I dont think that's what your looking to do is it?
I use the ballistics calc bullet flight version3
Once you've decided on an average wind speed and direction to the target simply punch it in then apply the solution and pull the trigger.
I'm not sure if Bryan Litz's latest book helped or made wind reading harder. Apparently wind grows in strength 1mph ever foot you go up, so on long shots when your lobbing projectiles up 10m or so to hit 1000m you're collecting substantially more wind than what your meter told you at ground level.
Then there's the gradient issue when shooting down into valleys - the air being more dense at lower altitudes...The confusing issues keep on coming.
watch Norway's DVD ....
Its on the way :) had a good session last time. Tied a ribbon to my gong and read wind with metre beside it. Watched how it behaved at various wind speeds( 10-20mph) then was able to take reading at shooting location and see if it was matched at the gong. Was a great way to check at both ends and was also able to look at surounding grass trees etc. got to start somewhere
[QUOTE=Gibo;324361Tied a ribbon to my gong [/QUOTE]
Awwww how sweet. Was it pink ??
:) ;)
Tim
Yes knowing Gibo:)Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi39
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yip :) pink dazzle paint on it. Wasnt really a ribbon, just a bit of plastic ;)
Cheers @Barefoot :thumbsup:
Attachment 32328
Surprised your toenails arent painted @Gibo :thumbsup:
He tied it to his GONG not his dong (I think - maybe I'm wrong)Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi39
You asume too much ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi39
Ohhh this dvd is good!! Validating time :)
Clear lacquer ??Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibo
Tim
There you go again Tim :)
