reticle-bore alignment

I was testing my scope alignment by drawing a plumb line on the target . winding up 10 moa and checking the bullets landed in line with the drawn line. the end result was a 4 degree shift left with the 10 moa adjustment. I like to make measured adjustment rather than twist and 're-check etc so I looked at the value of 4 degrees from the center to outside edge of the scope tube. seems that the formula for a one inch scope is .2mm rotation per degree (it's not exactly .2 but it would be unrealistic to deal with numbers smaller than this). just if anybody was interested

Interesting, how the hell are you going to measure 0.2 mm ! Only way I can think of is exacto knife marks on tape ?

I was using the forum lapping kit earlier today, and quite impressed with the levels that come with the kit. Did the reticle by eye first, and the tested using the levels, surprisingly small turn required to get a big gap on the two levels to align...

I alluded to this on another thread a while back,Norways?
where scope is deliberately canted to suit natural hold etc, while Im sure its a negligible error(in most cases) I dont recall if I got an answer to weather he allows for it.

I set up my scopes buy removing the mag sitting on the bench on the mag well and lining up cross hairs with a anally plum steel post in my yard. Figuring this could be off due to machining errors I checked this with precision levels across the top of the action,top of bottom half of rings and box test. All tests had same result of course as I own a Sako:D

The more shit between the scope and action the more POTENTIAL error here, not saying it will but rails qd mounts etc have the POTENTIAL to move scope off centerline which is actually an entirely different issue to cant.

my bad should have said cant. mine is 4 degrees out so .8mm if it's within 1 degree I reckon that is pretty good. number of ways to measure rotation. will be playing with it tomorrow but wanted an idea of movement required before starting

k, be interested to hear how you measured it and results...

with tikkas having a flat top you can just use a flat bar sitting on top of action with one edge pressing against flat piece on bottom of scope. did this with other two scopes and got it perfect. will post pics when I can bring myself to going through the photobucket debacle

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Originally Posted by horihunter

with tikkas having a flat top you can just use a flat bar sitting on top of action with one edge pressing against flat piece on bottom of scope. did this with other two scopes and got it perfect. will post pics when I can bring myself to going through the photobucket debacle

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Assuming it is actually milled central and square to the bore.

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Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Assuming it is actually milled central and square to the bore.

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yup, thats the built-in error with the scope "levels" as well, assumes the top of your scope reticle cap is level to the reticle...

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Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Assuming it is actually milled central and square to the bore.

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always check after but been spot on with other two. if not you just rotate .2mm per degree...:thumbsup:

I level my action, then use a laser level to align the vert hair. Check with spirit levels on the scope caps and so far, on all scopes I have done, sweet.
Even worked on my shitty old March.
Another method is feeler gauges but can't be bothered explaining how.



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Originally Posted by R93

I level my action, then use a laser level to align the vert hair. Check with spirit levels on the scope caps and so far, on all scopes I have done, sweet.

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That's how I've done it in past and I've never had a problem.

Horihunter - any update on that ''CDS design'' upgrade you were toying with for the Superslams....?

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Originally Posted by Pop Shot

That's how I've done it in past and I've never had a problem.

Horihunter - any update on that ''CDS design'' upgrade you were toying with for the Superslams....?

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easy enough to do but a hassle if changing loads...
I'll 're-do the ones for my 7mm mag and show you. the other issue is you need to deal in true ballistic range rather than required moa for the given shot angle on the day

Skite

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Originally Posted by kiwijames

Skite

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+1

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Originally Posted by horihunter

+1

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Skite, possibly but not meant to be, however it doesn't help the fact that I can't get it centered.
I could take it out to 100m instead of yards, but my range finder is in yards so it's of no help to have a zero in meters.
I'll delete the picture if that helps .

dammit pics gone now. is the scope canted at all? I.E if it is will rotating it bring it to center? what do you shoother with it? will the 3mm or however far off it is have much impact on real world shooting? it's not going to be uncommon to need a partial click to be bang on for your target

Or a slight body/position change.


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