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I've had some less than good groups shooting from a bipod with spikes. 2 MOA, rifle is usually 1 MOA. Googling suggests I should be loading the bipod with forward force from shoulder prior to pulling the trigger. Bipod is firmly attached with no play in any direction. Thoughts?
All i ever use is a harris swivel with spikes on it, both in the field and off a woodern bench at range, i do push forward a little as you explain, i dont have any trouble with grouping etc with the spikes.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
I had that problem bit now I apply only light forward pressure BUT I have hold the trigger hand and stock firmly into my shoulder. If I forget this firm hold I throw shots.
Depends a little on the stock type too, if it's a floppy plastic one and the bedding is a little mobile loading it will change point of impact. Also, using a spiked bipod on hard surfaces can cause bouncing.
Using bipod on dirt. Tikka stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by No.3
Factory plastic? Yeah, floppy plastic...
Just remember to use your floor mats them when you go to take a shot off the bonnet... Nothing a but if if sanding and spray paint won't hide!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5hv...=PHILLIPVELAYO
This is probably the best video I've been for getting a stable bipod position, you don't need to load the shit out of it, just enough that you have a solid "bridge".
Definitely don't load it just prior to pulling the trigger, you want to have a steady position with a good natural point of aim.
You never want to be making movements just prior to pulling the trigger, everything should be stable and settled, that way you are doing the same thing with every trigger pull.
The factory Tikka stock is more than stable enough to shoot very good groups from a bipod.
I found applying some vertical load with offhand on either top of scope or holding fore end helps.
This ^^^Quote:
Originally Posted by Woody
Pulling the stock into your shoulder helps in all positions and with recoil.
Always try and ensure your right hand (shooting right handed) is relaxed and not tight, if you are fighting thd rifle with a right hand grip you'll never achieve consistency (bipod loaded or not). I RO a lot and its the one suggestion that seems to make a big difference after a shooter starts to understand "natural point of aim".
Not sure what exactly you are referring to here but there are a lot of people who will pull the rifle directly into their should to help with recoil management.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tentman
You don't want have a death grip as yes you'll be prone to pulling shots if you are inconsistent but putting direct rearward pressure shouldn't be detrimental.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zhaa...nel=SHLowlight
This is what I am attempting to say in words.
Admittedly having a more vertical grip (or pistol grip) makes this much easier to visualise/implement but you can do it with a more traditional hunting grip too.
To the OP.
Most people discover it is much easier to shoot a heavy rifle accurately as they tend to absorb all the small movements you excert from your body meaning the rifle tends to just sit where you place it, whereas lightweight rifles move around all over the place. Using the method in the first vido about loading the bipod and building a bridge, plus having some rearward pressure can do a lot to stabalize the rifle rather than just float around on the bipod.
You can get away with a more free recoiling type setup if you have some decent sand bags, but a bipod is far less forgiving.
Natural point of aim is without the most important thing with regards to repeatable accuracy.
Shooting small bore or full bore NRA (sling and jacket shooting) will reinforce NPA pretty damn quickly, muscling the rifle onto target is not conducive to repeatable accuracy.
Heres video that talks about NPA.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aiRE...nel=SHLowlight
Frank Galli isn't the be all end all but he does have a bunch of videos talking about what he calls the fundamentals, there is definitely some good info in his videos.
Thanks, like most things, I've done most bipod practice with a .22 and can generally do a 5 shot clover leaf at 50 metres. This hasn't translated to centrefire for me, so think recoil management is the issue.
if its the harris type it definitly helps to lean into them a little to "load it up"
its hard to over do but you dont need to do it that hard
body position should be critiqued too as well as the way the rifle is held
Norways posts were amazing for ironing out all the problems with long-range inconsistency
I actually found I shot centerfire better when I first started out.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
After shooting 99-100% rimfire only for a few years I developed a bu ch of bad habits that messed up my centrefire shooting (particularly recoil management).
The Snipershide videos about fundamentals and NPA are a good starting point.
You can also do dry fire practice in the hallway to practice things before getting to the range.
Obviously take appropriate safety precautions before dry fire practice indoors.