swapping scopes

Hey guys

Short of buying $400 plus QD mounts like American defence, have you had much repeatability between swapping scopes and holding zero (just need to be +-1 moa as im only shooting 250-300 max on deer, and shoulder shots).

I have a wheeler torque wrench, so i was thinking if i have my ATN 4K Pro in a good set of 30mm rings (not the junk it comes with), and another scope in good set of rings and i just swap them by taking them off the rail and when i put them back i torque them back to the same torque then it should be reasonably close. Has anyone done this, how did it work?

I will be using good quality rings on both scopes, ideally ones that have a 10mm or even a 1/2' nut or a decent torx screw.

Cheers

colimetre/borescope......check out the setting BEFORE taking off one scope...put 2nd one on and see its on same place.....Ive been guilty of swapping my scopes so often they get dizzy and NORMALLY the borescope trick works well...had one rifle it wouldnt....that was consistantly out by 4-5"
you COULD use weaver type bases and clip over rings and leave rings on scope...unscrewing rings at bottom with the big screw for doing this.in theory they HAVE to go back to the same spot as bases have slot and rings have bar that sits in it...I fit mine with rings opposite each other to aid the alignment....its eye opening how much difference that can make one way Vs the other.

I knew an old fella that did this for years with a BSA 270, and a Nikko Stirling scope in PH mounts. Drove an old Series 1 Landrover everywhere, was a very capable mechanic and engineer, and instead of a gunbag he just rolled the rifle up in an old Chapman sack and put it in the back of the truck with all his gear. The scope he rolled up in a cloth and either carried it on the front dash or in his pack. When he got to where he was gonna start hunting he put the 2 together and did the screws up with either a bit of a tweek with a coin or a screwdriver, not too tight, just tight enough. And he hunted tahr and deer until he was 80 with that rifle, and I dont recall seeing him miss. When I asked him about it he assured me that if it was in decent rings, with a locating pin such as the PH rings have, it would return to zero every time so long as you fitted it the same way each time and use approx the same pressure to tighten the screws. After all, it was always pulling the one way against the rigid side of the rings. Using Weaver/picatinny type rings ensures you locate it at the same location on the rail each time, so I would try it and find out, got nothing to lose.

It's not something I have done regularly, but when I took scope and optilocks off my Sako for threading it was pretty much bang on when reassembled, and have removed scopes with rings off Brno's and they have been very close to zeroed. All have recoil tabs of some sort which would help though.

I swap between red dot and scope a lot using basic old weaver rings,always go back to within an inch @ 100m,swapping from alloy to steel bases tightened things up even more.i bush hunt though where 100m is a looong shot.

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Originally Posted by Husky1600

I knew an old fella that did this for years with a BSA 270, and a Nikko Stirling scope in PH mounts. Drove an old Series 1 Landrover everywhere, was a very capable mechanic and engineer, and instead of a gunbag he just rolled the rifle up in an old Chapman sack and put it in the back of the truck with all his gear. The scope he rolled up in a cloth and either carried it on the front dash or in his pack. When he got to where he was gonna start hunting he put the 2 together and did the screws up with either a bit of a tweek with a coin or a screwdriver, not too tight, just tight enough. And he hunted tahr and deer until he was 80 with that rifle, and I dont recall seeing him miss. When I asked him about it he assured me that if it was in decent rings, with a locating pin such as the PH rings have, it would return to zero every time so long as you fitted it the same way each time and use approx the same pressure to tighten the screws. After all, it was always pulling the one way against the rigid side of the rings. Using Weaver/picatinny type rings ensures you locate it at the same location on the rail each time, so I would try it and find out, got nothing to lose.

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The cone system ph used is very clever easily as precise as picatinny or weaver but you must have ph bases or you are stuffed.

I’ve been swapping my scopes with Warne QR for years. No zero issues out to 600m with a 308, same for the 300 blackout.
Last week I had a play at the range and did a hunt with my NXS 2.5-10x42 compact scope I normally use on my 300 blackout putting it on my 338 edge, recoil no worries and no problems taking it on and off.

550m straight on head shot.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5e3a6a58_b.jpg

I dont mind the weight, i never buy ally rings. Always steel and i intent on getting a steel rail too. Its gonne ve used of the quad on farms, pines etc

The sphur mounts would be probably the most repeatable for your task. But they will probably put your scope high.
The leupold quick release system was pretty good otherwise. But not commonly found now days although they still produce all the rings and bases.