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I found a free ebook that gives a pretty good run down on using a sling for shooting.
Slings are far from perfect but offer some advantages over a bipod or rest and can serve as more than just a carry strap.
Download page, https://rifle-craft.com/a/downloads/...0159fd5d165767
If that doesn’t work here’s the main page. The book is free but you will have to go through the checkout process.
https://rifle-craft.com/collections/...ing-sling-book
Read that a few months ago and made some slings to try the concept, a few things to mention:
1- You need to make sure your sling swivels and stock can withstand the tension exerted by this style of sling.
2- The 'proper' M1907 sling is a bloody heavy contraption that isn't really fit for purpose on a hunting rifle.
3- The alternatives are OK (he came up with a design that was a good compromise) but the length of the sling will always be critical, and for overall stability you can't beat a bipod.
Better to have an adjustable sling for carrying the rifle in relative comfort/ease, but good to know some of these techniques.
A few people I know (then myself) have gone for the TAB gear slings with flush cup mounts in the stock on the opposite side of bolt; they are good if you can get them but a little heavy.
@caberslash All great points.
Bipods definitely have their place.
I'm using the magpul RLS sling and really like it. It works great as a carry strap and to stabilize the rifle but it can slip a bit on the shoulder.
Photo attached of a combined carry/shooting sling I designed and made myself. Easy enough to make, using off-the-shelf components, and works very well in the field. I can supply more details if anyone is interested.
Attachment 148993
The total length and the length of the front loop are readily adjustable.
More info would be great!Quote:
Originally Posted by redrover
Is that an older Sako?
Nice.
I used a ching sling for a while but found I couldn't rig up quick enough for offhand shots and preferred an improvised rest when afforded more time
I'll put the details together in the next few days and post them here. I thought I had a good diagram of it on my computer but when I looked, it was a previous design which didn't work quite so well, so I'll have to start drawing from scratch. How it works is simple enough with a clear drawing, but without one could be a bit like a Chinese string puzzle.Quote:
Originally Posted by caberslash
Yes, the rifle in the photo is a re-barrelled Sako AI.
Sounds good I'd be interested as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by redrover
Is it just me or is it a bit ironic the cover picture rifle has a bipod on it?
I used a 1907 sling for years. It's especially good when you are taking sitting shots in tussock - too tall for a bipod, so just sling up and get it done.
I've recently discovered that a Uncle Mikes mountain sling can be made into a good shooting sling by just putting the loop on the front swivel, preset to the right length for you. Just undo the rear swivel and get into it when the need arises.
Finally got a detailed drawing of my sling design finished. It is made from 25mm wide synthetic webbing. Drawing and a photo below. The design is basically limited to 25mm width, because it is difficult to find both suitable 32mm wide webbing (most of what is around is far too thin and floppy) and 32mm wide fittings.
25mm webbing also comes in a variety of thicknesses - what is required is stuff about 1.6 to 1.7mm thick. Anything much thinner is too floppy. The Tri-Glide marked A on the drawing sets the working length of the front loop and it must provide a tight grip, which may not be achievable with thinner webbing - and you definitely do NOT want it slipping. On the other hand, it may be difficult to pass two layers of webbing much thicker than about 1.8mm through the Tri-Glides.
The other fitting required is a Ladder Lock, marked C on the diagram.As made, they have a rounded tab at one end (see photo) but in this application it serves no useful purpose so I have cut it off.
There are various brands of Tri-Glides and Ladder Locks around, and they can be found in shops dealing in outdoor equipment, marine equipment, general hardware, and even in some drapers, such as Spotlight. They are all very similar, but not necessarily identical. It is clear in the photo that some Tri-Glides are shorter than the others, and provide a tighter grip.
The only real work required is to make the necessary keepers. I made mine out of pieces of the same webbing as used for the slings. Made a ‘former’ out of layers of cardboard which was 25mm wide and 3mm thick, wrapped the webbing around it, temporarily pinned it in place, and glued it up using a hot glue gun. Inevitably some glue squeezed out, so I tidied up that and the raw outer end with more glue and small electric soldering iron. Other types of glue might work just as well or better.
Because the strap is one piece and is not permanently fastened anywhere, it is easy to adjust the positions of the fittings to suit the individual rifle/shooter. The top sling in the photo was made for a rifle with longer than usual spacing between the swivel bases, and it also has an extra keeper placed between fittings C and D.
These slings are easy to use in the field. Turn the front portion 1/4 turn to the left, pass left arm through the front loop and place it around the upper arm, and draw keeper F down firmly on the arm. Take up shooting position with sling passing under left hand, where it will prove a great aid to steady holding. Attachment 149465Attachment 149466
Thanks @redrover that's a very detailed and helpful post.
Yup @redrover that’s a fantastic bit of guidance there. Love a good shooting sling.
Awesome @redrover thank you.
Where did you buy all the parts?
It’s been some years since I last bought any bits and pieces for making slings, and most of my suppliers from that time have now disappeared. About the only one left is a shop in Porirua called Dwights, who I most recently bought some Ladder Locks and Tri-Glides from. I mentioned in my previous posting the sorts of shops that might sell such things, and you could add to this saddlery and equestrian suppliers, and canvas good makers and repairers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dama dama
‘Fastex’is probably the best known brand of fittings and is - I think - made in NZ. When I went through my box of bits today I found some fittings I bought from Spotlight (a drapery shop) which were made by an Australian company called Birch. I think Spotlight is a nation-wide chain.
The best webbing I found was in a local hardware shop which is now gone - swallowed up by Mitre 10 Mega. Apart from maybe Dwights, the only local shop I can think of which might have suitable webbing is a place called Pete’s Emporium, a sort of ‘bits of everything’ outfit. Not sure about Bunnings and Mitre 10 Mega. I could have a look next time I am in Porirua. There are places in Wellington City and the Hutt Valley which may have it, but I don’t go there very often. You really need to see the stuff for yourself and measure the thickness of it with calipers to be sure it is suitable - someone on the other end of the phone measuring it with a ruler is not going to be very helpful!
If you are in a location where getting to possible suppliers is impossible for you, drop me a P M and I’ll see what I can locate, but I cannot promise instant service.
Thanks for the reply. I'll have a hunt around locally.
Yes Dwights, Spotlight and Petes Emporium are good places to look.
Try Bivouac which will have climbing tape and the lower grades sometimes are OK for rifle slings. Don't get tubular as its too fat (but extra strong).
You might have luck in a marine supplies shop like Barton Marine.
Perhaps a sewing shop like Bernina would have tape and buckles.
I made a good sling recently from a synthetic tape belt and it came with a solid metal slider.
It has been a bit of a chase-around trying to locate the right thickness webbing. I was lucky in that I got all that I needed before the Mitre 10 shop at Paremata closed up.
I have finally found that Dwights Canvas in Upper Hutt has some at 1.5mm thick, which is very slightly thinner than what I have used, but it should still do the job. I’ll call in and have a look at it next time I am over that way, but that could be a few weeks off. I should have realized earlier that the lower sling in the photo I posted was the first one I made of this pattern and the webbing is only just over 1.4mm thick, but it works OK.
The only thing to be aware of with 1.5mm thickness webbing is that it will require Tri-glides with slots no more than 4.5mm wide, preferably a few tenths less. I have a few like that which I think I may have bought from a Dwights Outdoors shop (same family - different business name) some years ago. Anything much wider will not grip the webbing tightly enough. In this category is the ITW FASTEX brand Triglide, which has slots about 5.3mm wide.
I wish I had tried Dwights Canvas earlier, as it would have saved me a lot of internet time and phone calls. Spotlight, The Canvas Company, Kolorful Canvas, Dwights Outdoors, and Barton Marine only had 1.0mm thick stuff, while Bivouac had nothing - only tubular, which is good for the sort of slings rock and ice climbers use, but no use at all for rifle slings. Petes Emporium in Porirua had a large collection of webbings, but nothing of use for rifle slings - unless you like orange, pale green, or white cotton webbing! An internet search for ‘Polyester webbing’ and ‘Polypropylene webbing’ produces lots of links, but mainly to wholesalers who will only sell whole rolls - 50m and more.
Contact Details:
Ross Dwight
Dwights Canvas
802 Fergusson Drive
Upper Hutt 8245
Tel: (040 528-8245
Email: ross@dwights.co.nz He seems to me to be both friendly and helpful.
