Thread: Advice on a benchtop Milling machine for gunsmithing projects

Hi team,
Im after a Milling machine or mill/drill for my garage for gunsmithing type projects. The smaller and cheaper the better within reason.

Can anyone give guidance on what it needs to be capable of to do the common milling and drilling operations im likely to be doing? Ie size of machine etc. Im mainly wanting to do stock inletting, milling cuts on actions and tenons and accurately drill holes.

You need to be looking in the 2-3K range for anything that is not a complete waste of time and money. You need a solid machine with reasonable motor power. Scott Machinery are good to deal with.

I assume you already have a lathe? because if not thats where I would start.

The milling machine I have is in the 230 kg range, I would not want to go any lighter than that.

Second hand machines can be good deals, or they can be worn out pieces of crap, with a lot of wear in its surfaces. Worm out machines are inaccurate. and difficult to fogure out these issues as a beginner.

Highly recommend getting/installing a dro. Makes your life much easier, and allows you to do way more.

Youll want to spend about the same amount you spend on the mill on tooling. Also measuring equipment. dial indicators,...

Aliexpress stuff (toolholders, carbide end mills) are remarkably good nowadays.

I have something like this, wouldn't want anything smaller. Mine was 2nd hand but not used much, pretty much as-new... I'd be a little wary of something needing "some TLC" without having a good look at it and knowing exactly what work it might need, if you are trying to do precise work.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...ing/5587116104

Yes i already have a lathe and have been using it alot in the last couple of years.
I actually bought it from Scott machinery.
I have a bunch of measure and indicating tools.
Im more after what sort of sized machine i could get away with and what features it needs most.
Smithing tyoe stuff is usually very small and shallow cuts and inletts in steel right?

@gundoc
What do you classify as reasonable motor power?
Could you recommend a size of machine as an example that Scott machinery is selling? (so i have something to go on to get a clue because i have no idea)

https://www.scottmachinery.co.nz/con...de=MDRL-0-0096

Size of machine can be a bit of a red herring, what you need is rigidity - the more rigid the machine the absolute better it will be. A very solid, rigid machine that produces really good work might not be a 'big' machine with a large capacity on the table - and a machine with a large capacity on the table might flex quite a bit which limits you to very light cuts. A mill/drill won't be as good as a purpose built mill as as example. Chinese mill/drills are really common, but only good for light work.

The other bit is the stock tooling - you want a very reliable connection between the machine, the adapter and the tool - some is not that reliable in this regard. I have a vertical slide table that I can bolt to my lathe and an ER40 collet chuck which allows me to do very light jobs in the lathe. It gets me through, but definitely not as nice as a dedicated mill.

This would be good. It's got everything but pricy though

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...hoCjnUQAvD_BwE

The machine linked in STC's post above is the sort of thing you should be looking at as a minimum for reliable results. Do not go for a machine with a cylindrical support column as they are not rigid enough. I run a full-size Bridgeport style 3-phase machine with DRO and even that can grunt at times.

Buy a proper milling machine

A mill can mill and drill.
A drill mill is a mayor compromise

My advice.
Buy a mill
Buy a drill
Don't try and buy one to do both equally well because it won't

https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/m138

My first mill was one of this size. Not this exact model, but pretty much the same thing. I have since purchased a proper mill, but still find myself going back to this for a lot of jobs. They are very capable machines for gunsmithing type work where you are not trying to remove a lot of metal. I would not no any smaller, and stay away from round column machines.

I filled the base and column of mine with epoxy granite. Was a worthwhile upgrade. I also fabricated a custom steel stand that was packed with sand and had vibration isolators between it and the floor, and the machine. These two mods did a lot to cut down the harmonics and vibrations.

Factor in buying a rotary table or dividing head (or both) and a DRO. These accessories make the machine so much more useful.